myford super 7 clutch

Additional info perhaps not relevant, is that the push rod was not adjusting at all and the length of threaded end showing beyond the Driver Plate is a good 12mm which is 5mm further than my other S7 which would I think lend support to the idea that the previous owner may have over tightened resulting in the lock up.

The thread. "stuck clutch" covers some tips to get out of this situation.

Mike

Thanks Mike. Will do.

Adam

Re the spring. I used to believe that this was akin to a WMD until I took a clutch to pieces, and its not that bad.

You can take the "sting" out of the spring by replacing, one at a time, the two socket cap screws with longer ones with a nut on them, and then unscrewing the nuts to release the tension. The spring does still shoot out (unless you have really long screws!) but only a little way and is easily caught in a bundle of rags. I used the workshop towel.

For reassembly a clamp is easily contrived using ordinary clamps and a bit of scrap.

Easier to do than to describe, just think about it.

Robbo

Thank you for that excellent suggestion for safe removal of the clutch spring. I put it in my S7 notes immediately - hope I'll never need it but...

Regards

John

Hi Robbo, thanks but that makes absolutely no sense to me as the spring and push rod are trying to fly out of the inside of the countershaft away from the threaded end of the push rod not vice versa. There is no seperating force trying to push the drive plate away from the clutch plate that longer cap head screws can affect. The pair of allen cap head screws are simply there to stop the drive plate spinning.

Actually that pair of cap head screws are there to locate the drive plate centrally to the bore of the countershaft (the drive plate already has two lugs that slot into recesses in the clutch plate (clearly visible) to stop it swivelling.

Hello, I am new to this, I just bought Myford S7 serial number SK 66463 may be made 1963 - 1964. with industrial cabin, and coolent pump with Three phase motors .this lathe was really very much abused and neglected. I dismantiled the machine as i have done this sort of work on many ML7s with no clutches ten yeas ago . but the clutch on this machine puzzle's me. from reading threads above and other materials this machine may have latest or second type of clutch, any help to how to start this proccess of dismantilling the clutch and what I have to be aware of . i have downloaded the manual but it is not very clear and my eyes not that great. any help will be very much valued. cheers Saif

All sorted now. I removed the countershaft with clutch plate attached, gripped the thread in the aluminium jaws of my vice, twisted the pulley assembly to slacken of the push rod, then put the countershaft back in the housing locked in place with the circlip, with end blocked off by clutch lever in situ, released the push rod and spring completely, removed the countershaft, knocked the clutch plate out and cleaned it up (edges a bit gummy), reassembled back in the countershaft housing without the clutch lever in situ, partly drilled a square hollow bar to seat the end of a 5" rod pushing the push rod in, attached 2 G-clamps to the square bar either side of the push rod, and gently pushed in the push rod to the correct thread position turning the pulley by hand to wind on the thread, then some more in order to be able to be left with enough room at the clutch lever end to slide the clutch lever back in, then reassembled and slackened off the thread to correct position. Very simple really. The key really was the use of aluminium (or copper) soft jaws, and the understanding that the uncoiled spring still stays comfortably within the countershaft to enable easy recompression

Edited By Adam Harris on 20/04/2014 17:47:57