Rob Roy 3 1/2" gauge tank locomotive - anybody built one?

Pete,

Just to ensure I don't foul any of the 'workings' - was the new stretcher placed at the end of the cylinder closest to the front wheels or the other end closest to the buffer beam?

Phil H

Phil

I knew you'd ask that and I had searched my pictures for an example for you but for some reason didn't have one. But I do now

While I was taking photos for you I remembered the most important modification to make driving far more pleasurable. Move the bypass into the cab

This was a retrofit for me so I replaced the bypass valve from the front of the tank with a through connector.

Run the pipework right through the tank, put the valve in the cab and loop the return back into the tank.

It could be tidier but I was using the parts I had.

Hope that helps

Pete

Edited By Doubletop on 12/06/2012 09:38:35

Pete,

As ever - superb assistance. It gets sort of busy in that area doesn't it?

I notice that the frames are tapped for the cylinder fixings rather than fitting fiddly nuts and the use of long screws for the steam chest rather than studs. I was thinking of doing the same thing for the cylinder fixings - in addition to tapping the buffer beam angles.

I was considering moving the bypass valve - it does mention it in the book but I was considering hiding it in a mock sandbox. I will copy your lead by putting it in the cab.

Thanks again.

Phil H

Phil

If you've read my thread on HMEM I didn't make my Rob Roy. I took it over from my dad who had started it in the 80's it was all but complete in bare metal and had never been steamed. I just finished it off and got it running.

It occurs to me looking at my picture that two of the 'rod' stretchers could be included without getting in the way of anything. Theye are easily removed for access if needs be.

Pete

Pete,

Yes I had noted that your dad had built the engine.

I might need to modify the attachment for the additional stretchers because my cylinders are already machined. I had decided (25 years ago) to put many more fixings on items that can be 'seen' such as the cylinders, buffer beams and saddle. For example, there are actually 8 bolts per side holding the real saddle to the engine frames and this is easy enough to copy.

Your picture has helped me to clarify in my mind how to balance the detail versus the functional model. I have decided to make the inside of the frames very practical i.e., as the model design e.g., use out of scale 3/32" rivets to hold the main horns and buffer beam angles together for construction speed and because they are out of view but try to copy some of the simple external features of the real thing e.g., the buffer stocks and heads and various other details.

Phil H

Hi just need some advice

My grandfather has a complete 3.5 Rob Roy but due to illness he now has no interest in it and has asked me to sell it for him.

All I know about it is that it is complete and it runs on coal. There is a certificate with it saying that the engine has been tested and it passed, but that was in 1991 so i dont know if its still vaild.

My grandfather has decided to sell it but I dont know how much it is worth or where to advertise it.

Can anyone help please???

Thanks

Amy