What Regulator type.

Thanks to all for their contributions after my modest start. I have taken the percieved wisdom and re-designed the regulator for my current build (Princess Marina) accordingly. I have modelled it usjng Fusion 360 so all l need to do now is work out how to share it.

Bruno

As promised here is an image captured from Fusion 360 which I have used to develop my next regulator. The body has a PEEK bearing face pressed in and an O-Ring at the Backplate. I have put a 15 degree chamfer on the valve itself.

Very interesting, although you have left no way for steam to enter the tube on the back side of the valve. This is usually done with a series of holes drilled on the top side of the tube, or, a tube installed at 90 degrees to the main tube. This tube goes up into the steam dome to get "dry steam". I would stay away from the drilled holes method, as water from the boiler can still splash into the regulator tube.

The part that contains the seat for the valve looks pretty complicated, I would not want to machine that. I look forward to photos of the finished product. A simple screw down valve against a metal seat in the tube works just fine. Make the angle of the valve whatever you think will work best. Also, graphite string works just fine for packing.

David

Aha, If I show the whole thing, perhaps it helps. I am going to put two short inlet pipes in the top like this. The plan being to put the regulator body through the backhead flange and then insert the short pipes in through the safety valve bushes, taking care not to drop them! The idea is to collect steam from the highest and dryest part of the boiler. The boiler is domeless so cannot do the taller style of collector pipe.

I don't think it is too complicated. I will drill through in several diameters to form the step for the PEEK valve face to be pressed in, the valve cavity and finally for an M10 thread. Reverse in the chuck and then drill and tap the other 5/16x32 ME for the steam pipe. The PEEK valve face being a press fit from the M10 threaded hole.

Okay, sounds like a plan. The problem I see, is that drilled holes are usually not really round or concentric. Valve seat and press fit surfaces, especially in a regulator, should really be drilled and then bored, or, at least reamed. Perhaps this will all work out well for you.

David

Hi all,

This is my first post on this site so go easy on me please.

I built a Holmside and I fitted a gas type 3/8" full bore ball valve, this has given great service the engine has now covered nearly 2000 miles. Hydraulic tests are no trouble as the seal is 100%, but to do a proper test including the super heater the regulator should be open and the steam inlet to the cylinders blanked off. Getting the 90 deg. opening from the 70 deg. regulator handle movement is easily achieved by shortening the length of the operating arms on the valve. I used the bottom half of the Stroudley casting, threaded for the valve and soldered into a disc that is sandwiched between the boiler and the dome, cutouts are made for the operating arms. Be careful with the regulator operating shaft as if made to the drawing it will pull straight through the gland, in needs to be a larger diameter.