Member postings for David Parsons 3

It wasn't the quill, It was clear to see that the endmill had moved from where I had originally set it.

I don't have enough experience to comment on the fit of the endmill in the collect, however, had it been loose when it was in my hand before attachement common sense would have told me something wasn't right.

Definitely a 12mm collet.

It can only be that the collect wasn't tight enough. I suppose by the low response to my question of vibration/bounce, we can rule this out. Back to the machine and a much closer inspection of the collect and drawbar.

Kind thanks for everyone's help.

As someone has already said, the Ian Bradley book is a must. It's a very easy read for the beginer and gives lots of useful information. It is highly recommended.

Good luck.

I'm using an R8 collet in my Myford VME Mill.

I'm trying to reduce the thickness of some gauge plate, and then add numerous holes.

I have mounted the plate on two parallels, the gap bridged underneath is 150mm. I have been told that 15mm thick plate can bounce quite easily, however, I proceeded being that I need the gap underneath in order to drill my holes through the work.

As I was reducing the thickness over the area of the finished piece with a carbide center cutting 12mm endmill, going from side to side etc, I noticed the tool was making a progressively loud vibration noise. Closer inspection of the work revealed that the endmil had been slipping down the collect and thus been cutting a downward ramp into the work instead of a flat cut.

Questions.

Although I'm inexperienced at milling I'm fairly confidant the collet was tight enough, I mean you shouldn't have to get them so tight that they are close to striping threads on the draw bar do you ? So I'm guessing this was down to the work piece bouncing and thus grabbing the tool and pulling it into the work ?

Can bounce really do this ?

Also, in order to stop bounce should I have a third parallel bar in the middle, and then remove this to drill my holes at the end ?

Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

Many kind thanks.

David

I tried that email, but no response.

Anyone got a number for them ?

Jason,

I'm following manufacturers instructions of NOT using the tailstock. Only fine cuts are used.

To clarify to everyone, I'm not using the top slide, and I'm using a very slow power feed off the leadscrew.

Many thanks.

Martin,

It was under the cabinet. I guess this might have been where I was going wrong with the test ?

Would I be right in saying that if the headstock is out of alignement then it needs rotating clockwise if looking from above ?

Many kind thanks.

I got a problem with my Myford Super 7.

Everytime I try to make a rod it ends up having a bigger diameter on the free end.

I've gone right back to basics. I've purchased a Moore and Wright engineers level and got the bed pretty damn level. I followed the manufacturers instructions, turning a one inch bar over a length of five inches, without using the tailstock. I took very fine final cuts, making sure the cut looked and sounded uniform across the entire length. Over a 4 inch distance the results are that the free end away from the jaws are 0.1 mm larger diameter than the chuck end.
Following the instructions, I jacked up the front foot of the tailstock end. I repeatdly did this until the rear foot was off the ground, but i am still out by 0.1mm everytime I conduct the test.

Completely at a loss....

Any suggestions?

Many thanks.
David

Edited By David Parsons 3 on 22/02/2012 22:44:54

Edited By David Parsons 3 on 04/02/2012 15:18:02