Member postings for VC

Some help need please

Trying to drive the X axis on my mini mill with a stepper nema 17 (200) steps /rev this is hooked to a easydriver -arduino uno - usb- EFL program.

Need help with these settings comes std with step/mm 250 at these settings asking for a X1 and checking the DR way off.

Tried this (stepper) 200*8 (micro steps)*20 (lead screw) = 32000

Tried that in step/mm and the stepper just makes a noise that's like a high pitched squeak.

Thanks all

What I did to-day is try to fix the Fups of yesterday, this is what I do most days !!

The holes are all in the wrong place. No need for the pic if they weren't.

Fixed the bottom left , used steel knitting needles form the charity shop they were on their way to the "bin"

Sure takes longer to fix than it did to "make"

A problem shared is a problem etc. Feel better now

Help please.

Trying to make my axle pump for a Jubliee 3 -1/2 do not have a book on how too so would appreciate any sugestions on which one to buy.

Back to the pump this is a twin piston arangment . There is a 1/8 connection hole between the two outlets but does not show if a grove or hole is made into the 5/16*40 that tread into the top of the pump block blanking off the connection hole.

Second question is that the piston cylinders are a "push" fit, how much bigger does the cylinder need to be than the hole (7/16) it's going into

Thank you

Hi all

Have managed to up load a few photos before, and all went well.

Now trying to do it again can't seem to choose a diffrent "album" just stays on the first one I chose

Thank you I'm sure there is a answer,

Was going to have a go at testing my own boiler, Got hold of a motorcycle front brake master cylinder. But like a lot of my "projects" thats as far as I got.

Hi Simon B

I'm bulding (trying) a inch scale Davey Paxman this was an unfinished project that I bought at a very good price....

Whatever book you buy and whatever model you choose this is what counts

Get the boiler RIGHT or your life will no be worth living,everything depends on it as I'm sure you will find out

Good luck and loads of silver solder

Hi All

I have one of these little mills, did break a motor gear so now have three spares with my luck it will be the other gear that breaks

I have a question for wotsit in regards to how he fixed the electrics, mine has a mind of it's own, (works fine then loads of switching on and off ) have bought a new switch (one that increases the speed) and the two IC's that bolt on to heat sinks but a bit weary so will wait until it gives up the ghost..

Going to post a photo of what has saved me a load of hand cranking

Hi Les

Been trying to draw the wiring but not having much luck, so will try and explain.

I have messed around with the wires that I cant remember how it was before

sorry. This what I have now.

+ in going to the cap and one red and one blue

- in going to the second red

other side of the cap going to the second blue

Do I need to be taken outside and shot ???

Thanks for the reply Clive.

Put the original wires back and tried it under load (connected to the Quron spindle) seems to run ok,not getting hot.

But now needs a little help to get started then runs fine ??? Depending which direction I "help" thats the way the motor runs.

I can live with this if it's not doing any harm???

Vernon

Hi All

Very happy bunny or was. Bought a second-hand Quron and started to get the hang of it.

Running fine switched off switched on BANG, Found the problem a washer had got into the motor and shorted out. Motor US

Fitted another motor ZP Motori Tipo 63 this had been running fine. But smart arse me wanted it to go in reverse like the old one, which it does but something is not right, gets very hot even with no load.

two green wires and two read come out of the motor and a single capacitor .

Have wired the cap into the two green got hot then wired it into the red still gets hot.

There is no centrifugal switch like the old motor.

Help please

Hi Kevin

Wish I had known you a year ago...

Just the right size for the Paxman traction 1-1/2 boiler, so with 9 feet you could make your own fleet of the little buggers..

Hi 007

If as you say you have loads of sliver solder.

Give it "test" I've just paid 24 squid for two sticks and they seem to look smaller all the

time.

Boiler seems to be a nice size to start on. if the caps are a push fit should be just about right

to big a gap and bye bye silver soilder.

Two lemons plus water nice and safe

Local building supplies for a couple of insulation bricks ask the guy for the ones you can cut with a wood saw

Keep it!

Loads of street cred like a AK47

Great fun to play with and you can test if things are real gold

Thanks for that Jason.

Making a new valve, cause the old one leaves a little to be desired.

Will make the "new" one to the same specs, just try and do a better job this time.

Once again thanks for your time and trouble. Penny just droped,think I needed to shift between forward and reverse.

Hi all.

Have had my 1-1/2 traction engine running on air, seems ok.(Paxman)

But getting to big for my britches started reading the Allchin book and it seems to me that the setting of the valve differs between the two.

Pax saying "lap of valves 0.05"

Allchin "At dead centre at each end, the edge of the inlet port should show as a thin black line.

Going to make a new slide valve, so was hoping the " Lads" could put me on the right track

Thanks Vernon

Sala Kahle

Hi Ray

I have the Chester Cobra. I bought this on a limited budget...

Get ready to spend a lot more than the cost of the mill on the bits needed to "Play"

So the more you spend on the mill will make the bit's seem cheaper

I'm not into cnc make enough mistakes at the moment, but if I was to go that route would buy one that was cnc.

If you do go with the Cobra try and get them to throw in a extra control box my one now has a mind of it's own

Cheers VC

Could try a coid chisel (small) make a groove on both sides of the key then side cutters to remove

VC

Think the wife has the best solution...

But how about a BIG cold chisel BIG hammer BIG piece of steel (Railway line)

BIG clout end of spring yes ???

Some help please.

I'm building or trying to a 1-1/2 Paxman Traction.

Having another go at the boiler..

Using 1/8 copper rivets for the firebox stays.

Question can I use brass for the nuts used to hold these in position or better to make up copper ones ?

I'm putting the nuts on the inside and it seems that the heads of the rivets are mechined off once it has been hard soldered.

Don't have any plans just the model engineering write ups

Thanks VC