Member postings for Greensands

I am in the process of soldering up an Arduino circuit using fine bell wire to make the required connections to a couple of rocker switches using a small diameter soldering bit commensurate with the small scale connections involved. The problems comes about with the selected rocker switches with their relatively chunky solder connection tabs which can b a bit of drain on the small soldering iron. Presumable the technique is to tin the as supplied switch contacts with a larger iron before using the small solderring iron to make the final wire connections. Anyone else had this mis matching problem to overcome?

Well, for what it is worth, I have spent the day spray coating the parts with acid primer and they are now tucked up in doors where they can hardened off overnight and there remain until the better weather comes. Note to self: On any future work the primer should be applied on the same day as collection from the shot blasters.

Probably leaving it a little late in the year for painting parts of my 5”G locomotive I have had some of the smaller items, platforms pieces and the like vapour blasted by the local shot blasting company and they are now currently boxed up in the workshop pending a change in the weather. Not too concerned about the all copper/brass components, the main concern of course being incipient rusting before able to apply a coat of prime. Current thinking is to keep the steel pieces covered up in the box in the relatively cold but dry workshop to minimise any chance of condensation. That is how things have remained for the last two weeks but I have found myself wondering just how much time I have got before the dreaded signs of rusting being to appear. Any thoughts and views and details of firsthand experience on such matters would much appreciated.

Hi all - Many thanks for all the help and information being provided. I have been referred to this link which may or may not be relevant

**LINK**

This motorcycle belonged to my father and dates back to the early 1930's or perhaps late '20s.. I would very much like to be able to identify both make, model and year of the machine. Current thoughts are that it may have been an AJS. Unfortuneately licence plate information does not extend back that far. I am sure that there are many out there who might be able to provide the answer.

Martin - Yes I understand that the capacitor is there to give the motor a 'kick' in the right direction to assist starting but what would be the consequences of not switching it out of circuit?.

I am running a bench mounted Hauser Jig Borer from a mains powered fractional HP motor of uncertain age and make (AEI?) which some may be able to help identify. Starting is achieved by momentarily switching in a starting capacitor and the arrangement has given good service over the years. Should the current motor fail, what might be considered to be a suitable (mains) alternative?

I am also somewhat confused about the use of a start capacitor. On a larger fractional HP motor used elsewhere in the workshop the starting capacitor is fitted with a centrifugal switch which cuts the capacitor out of circuit above a certain speed but the smaller unit appears to be reliant upon manual switching to avoid the capacitor from being permanently connected in circuit.

Are there alternative methods of achieving the starting torque without being dependent upon manual switching?

I have just watched Jo Marchant's talk on the Antikythera mechanism given to CU in 2020 and found it a fascinating account, so much so that I would like follow it up with a book on the subject. The obvious one to buy perhaps is Jo Marchants own book “Decoding the Heavens” published around 2006 but before making the purchase I just wondered if there may be a more modern account taking in recent developments and discoveries surrounding the mechanism.

I have a complete set of the Tony Allcock drawings with the exception of Sheet 1 (GA) should you require assistance on any specifi detail,

Correct. The RT was not designed to be mounted in the vertical position but needs must and all that. The mounting required a couple of tapped holes in the two lower corners of the base and the angle plate to be undercut to receive two ¼” BSF hex bolts which in no way affected the workings or the aesthetics of the table when used in the horizontal position. Rigidity has proved to be quite adequate for my purposes.

RT being modified to receive a stepper motor for Arduino control

Have attached a couple of photos showing my EMCO RT bolted to the table using a small angle bracket. The second pic is the table being modified to receive a stepper motor for eventual Arduino control .

Finally got around to replacing a previously fitted TDI used for measuring saddle movements on the Myford with a digital linear scale. Slotted holes in the fixing brackets makes it quick and easy to fit and remove and hopefully located in a position offering free access to all the usual controls.

For the application in mind i.e. a lathe DRO (See ME 4702), the jaw hardness is irrelevant and can in fact be sawn/ground off as they would simply get in the way.

General thought inspired by the photo shown on Page 581 of the Model Engineer No. 4702, 21st Oct - 3rd Nov 2022 where the author refers to the use of an inexpensive digital caliper for use in a DRO lathe application.

I recently searched for 0-6” carbon fibre (cheapo) digital callipers priced typically within the price range £5 to £15 but could only find, perhaps not unreasonably, units having a resolution 0.010”. Anyone know if they are available offering 0.001” resolution within a similar price bracket or is this expecting too much?

Interestingly, my copy of "Historic Locomotive Drawings in 4mm Scale" by F.J.Roche does not show the gedge on sheet DET/L1 for LMS locomotives. Strange because I have always had a good deal of respect for the accuracy of his work.

Any chance of posting a copy of the RCH drawing?

Can anyone please explain the purpose of a Gedge Flat as seen on ex LNER and LMS couplings? In some instances the flat appears to have been stamped with some sort of identification reference or was it perhaps some sort safety loading factor. I am sure someone out there will have the answer.