Here is a list of all the postings Chris machin has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: 3 - Jaw chuck on Clarke 300 lathe / cutting speeds for brass / steel. |
12/02/2012 22:10:54 |
Hi All , My clarke 300 is fitted with a 3 - jaw chuck and i have tonight taken out the jaws to see if they can be fitted as external jaws to give increased work holding capacity. It appears not so my question is are external jaws avilable and where do i get them ?
Also can someone tell me a general speed for cutting / facing both brass and steel. I have tried facing brass tonight and seemed to get a good finish around 2000 RPM , Is this a good general speed for brass. As yet i haven't tried any steel cutting.
Many Thanks
Chris. |
Thread: Clarke cl300 excessive play in cross slide - is it adjustable |
12/02/2012 22:04:11 |
Hi , Had a quick look at it tonight based upon the info people have posted (much appreciated
![]() I have found that the three screws that have been mentioned on the compound slide were loose. After loosening off the centre screw and then making adjustments on the outer two before retightening has resulted in a nice smooth crosslide with less than 1 thou backlash.
Really pleased this is sorted and thanks again to everyone who advised. ![]() |
11/02/2012 20:12:31 |
Hi All ,
I Have a Clarke 300 lathe. On the crosslide you can rotate the handwheel two revolutions before the crosslide starts to move and hence appears to have excessive backlash ! Is this adjustable or is it more serious ?
The other directional movements are fine.
any advice much appreciated
![]() Regards
Chris. |
Thread: What size do i drill a brass cylinder in order to ream it 5/16 " |
10/02/2012 20:36:09 |
Can someone tell me what size drill do i need if i am to finish up using a 5/16" reamer ? (its in brass)
Also any good links to tables / charts for cutting speeds / tapping sizes / thread info e.t.c.
Thanks in advance
Chris. ![]() |
Thread: Where do i buy the safety valve for my Polly engine ? |
31/01/2012 08:37:19 |
Hi All , where's the cheapest place to buy the safety valve for Tubal Cains 'Polly' engine and also the steam pipe and fittings e.t.c.
The plan i have says the safety valve needs to be one that blows off at 20lb per sq inch . I know it can be made but i'd rather buy one.
Thanks
Chris. |
Thread: Unsure about drawing for Tubal Cains 'Polly' boiler |
25/01/2012 18:09:51 |
![]() ![]() Thanks for that , yep got it now !!
Only been on this forum a few days and the help from everyone has been much appreciated. Thanks again , there will be plenty more beginneres questions !
![]() |
25/01/2012 18:05:25 |
Hi , Yep i understand that but why are there two horizontal lines top and bottom ? isn't the end cap just one line with the flanged sides against the vertical sides of the boiler ? |
25/01/2012 17:49:28 |
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25/01/2012 17:45:39 |
Hi All ,
hare's a pic of the drawing of the little boiler for Tubal Cains 'Polly' :
[IMG]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/whitebeetle/002.jpg[/IMG]
I'm unsure about the drawing regarding the end caps.I have marked on the drawing what i assume are where the end caps are fitted but there is another line on the drawing top and bottom that i've marked with a '?'
Probably a silly question but is this another plate accross the bottom because i can't see any explanation of this in the text.
Any help appreciated
Chris |
Thread: Beginners first simple clock kit / plans |
23/01/2012 08:13:02 |
Hi All ,
New to model engineering but am looking for a simple clock plan to build as a first project. Anyone got any advice / links e.t..c to suitable builds or websites ?
Any help appreciated,
Chris. |
Thread: Another annealing question |
21/01/2012 16:20:33 |
Once again , thanks to all for help and advice.
I have today bought from machine mart a gas torch with various size nozzles up to 1". It came with a hose and regulator for a propane bottle but i thought i'd try it on the butane which i already have. However when running on the butane the pressure appears very low althought the bottle is almost full. I then noticed that the max output of the propane regulator (which was supplied with the torch) was 4 bar. but the output of the butane regulator was 28mBar !
So can i get a higher output regulator for the butane bottle ? if not how are other people using butane ?
The regulator was used a few months ago on the same bottle to power the gas barbeque
![]() Many thanks |
20/01/2012 19:38:40 |
Bill,
You've got me thinking now ! Might look at the copper tube idea as was concerened about the look of it after bending and silver soldering the joint , especially as i'm new(ish) to silver soldering - have done some air con brazing though.
David , no its not a etch kit , just making it from scratch from Tubal Cains book on simple steam engines.
If butanes been used succesfully for brazing the end caps on then i'll stick with that for now and just buy a good 1" torch.
Chris. |
20/01/2012 17:52:21 |
Ok , Looks like a propane bottle investment then !
Thanks again for your help.
Chris. |
20/01/2012 17:31:40 |
Another question ....
![]() Does it need to be propane if i used a large gas torch or would the 25mm nozzle work ok with calor gas (butane) - reason i ask is i have a large bottle of butane,would save the extra expense of buying propane if so.
Thanks again. |
20/01/2012 17:22:20 |
Thanks all for the help.
There's a gas torch with regulator and hose with 3/8" connections in machine mart catologue (item pc108) which has adjustable flame intensity and three nozzles - 25mm,40mm and 50mm- its about £ 30. Is this the type i need ?
Ta |
20/01/2012 15:29:54 |
Hi , Tried this afternoon to anneal the 0.7mm sheet for my Polly engine with a blowlamp with butane / propane mix cannister but it appears to not get hot enough to do the job !
What should i be using ? Can i get a propane only cannister for such a small blowlamp ?
Thanks
Chris. |
Thread: Annealing 22swg brass sheet- is it neccecary ? |
18/01/2012 17:26:48 |
Hi , Many thanks for your help - its appreciated
The brass is CZ108 according to the supplier (ABS Metals).
So i heat the sheet to dull red all over , let it cool naturally and then it will form easier - is that correct ?
Thanks again. |
18/01/2012 16:06:32 |
Hi , I'm making the 'Polly' steam engine out of Tubal Cains book 'Building simple steam engines'. The boiler require a piece of 22swg brass sheet to be formed into a small cylinder. The brass sheet arrived today from the supplier but it appesrs to resist being formed into a 'tight' cylinder
I think if i try it it will 'kink' rather than form a neat cylinder !
1.Does the sheet need annealling all over and will it make it easier to form ?
2. Will the annealing damage the surface / shine on the brass or will it just polish back to its original finish ?
3. If it does need annealing do i just heat it all over to dull red then quench in water
Any help appreciated.
Thanks
Chris. |
Thread: New to model engineering - what solder / flux and annealing question |
16/01/2012 19:11:12 |
Hi All , I'm new to model engineering (although i am a maintenence engineer) so have experience of lathes , millers e.t.c. At the moment i'm in the market for a small lathe but meanwhile i've purchased the book 'building simple model steam engines' by Tubal Cain and am going to have a go at the 'Polly' model.
This involves making a small cylindrical boiler out of a sheet of either brass or copper and silver soldering the joint.I'm going to use brass sheet. My questions are :
1. Do i need to anneal the sheet or do i work it cold ?
2. What solder / flux combination do i need and where' s the best place to get it online.
3. How do i clean up the joint after its been soldered - i have access to an ultrasonic bath - would this be suitable ?
Any help appreciated.
Thanks
Chris.
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