Member postings for peak4

Clive, many thanks for such a detailed reply. It's a poor weather forecast for tomorrow, so I might get chance to go and have another play. I think I need to do a bit of re-shaping of the angular detent at the business end. The one that was fitted when I got the jig was rather misshapen; the previous owner seemed to have set it rather too close to the wheel.

Must go now as I'm told that dinner is ready.

I've now been experimenting and ended up making a new edge location detent, though I don't think I've got the angle on it quite right; I can't read the angle on Hemmingway's web catalogue drawing. My replacement works OK on bits above about 4.5mm, but on smaller ones it fouls on the flute not being dressed.

I seem to be able to get good repeatable results, but with too great a relief angle however much I set the drill to project; I'm clearly missing something obvious.

After following Bazyles suggestion, I had a look though one of the other threads on drill grinding and came across Clive's post about his Meteor drill grinder; the last one on this thread.

It looked very familiar as I have one of the swiveling heads in my box of interesting bits, sadly missing the grooved engraved parts which hold the drill itself. I didn't know what it was actually for, but picked it up cheap years ago, with a view to mounting a chuck/collet holder on it and using it to sharpen end mills. Mine is different in the way it mounts on the machine; I understand that it was an extra attachment for a larger cutter grinder of some sort.

Next job is to contact Clive, and also to see if Meteor are still in business.

Thanks Harold, I was reading your page as the notification of your above post arrived at my inbox.

Cheers also to Michael, but I'll need a second cup of coffee before I get to the end of that post train; currently only on Page 2.

With this particular jig there seems to be a slider which you use to set the arc diameter appropriate for the drill diameter. Obviously you also need to set an initial projection as well to save catching the jig on the wheel.

Trouble is, my workshop is so full that I can only access the Clarkson with the main door open, so I can only sharpen stuff when it's not raining, as I'm standing outside the doorway to use it.

It's dry at the moment, so off to experiment.

Thanks for that Robbo; I've actually got one of those as well, along with the instructions, but the Potts original is slightly more complicated.

There seems to be a forward offset adjustment, which it looks like you set according to the drill diameter, as well as being able to adjust the jig from the perpendicular.

I'm guessing you rotate the drill onto the stop, and then rotate the whole jig on the bade casting to ensure the cutting edge is vertical.

I've recently retired and now have more time for the workshop; both to tidy it and "do usefull stuff".

Some years ago I picked up a potts Drill Grinding jig; I assume an original as it's stamped with the name and Denbeigh.

It looks to be almost the same as the Hemmingway kit but was missing the base casting(s). Even I can manage that bit as it's effectively just a horizontal hole with a clamp, but what I'm stuck for is some detailed setting up instructions.

Grinder I'm OK for as I have a Clarkson Mk1, albeit without much tooling at the moment.

Is anyone out these able to assist with some instructions please? It would seem a bit off to ask Hemmingways, as I didn't buy one of their kits.

Many Thanks

As I'm sure you've sussed, I meant a 12v Battery Charger.

I've had reasonable success by doing it electrolytically.

I used dilute sulphuric acid from my local battery supplier as the electrolyte, from memory let down about 1:3, and a 1 v car battery charger as the power source, but just make sure you connect everything electrically before powering up as sparks and hydrogen are not ideal bedfellows in one's workshop. This is even more important when powering down.

The file needs to be the anode, and the cathode should face all sides of the file to be sharpened.

For the tank, I used a plastic measuring cylinder as it is tall and thin, thus minimising the amount of acid needed.

The cathode was made from a spiral of cunifer brake pipe as I had it lying around at the time.

For obvious reasons, goggles, gloves, old apron etc are to be advised, as it doing the job outside the workshop to save corroding anything.

Clean the file in caustic soda to degrease before you start, and rinse in a bucket of water following sharpening.

An immediate application of your favourite aerosol water displacer should follow as it will corrode frighteningly quickly. I used WD40.

Good luck and take care.