Member postings for fizzy

To echo what Dave wrote, my honest opinion is that you would be best to leave them well alone ( I apreciate this wasnt your original question but I think you may end up coming to this conclusion in time), especially as a newcomer to turning. I say this from experience, and the trusty ML7 wont run anywehere near the optimal speeds that most inserts are designed for. Add in the cost of new tips and the requirement to have specific tips for specific types and grades of metal and for me it becomes more hassle that its worth - with one exception, and that is parting. I do have several sets of index lathe tools but these are for specific jobs on specific materials, and dont see the light of day very often. Best advice would be to buy one general purpose holder and see how that goes as opposed to a full set, half of which never get used anyway - and have a go at grinding your own hss bits, either way good luck and enjoy.

Im currently trying to accurately determine the effect of a small superheater addition to one of my small boilers. It dawned on me that it might actually be cooling the steam instead of heating it! Any ideas as to how I can accurately and cheaply determine the exiting steam jet temperature? Thanks

Do you actually need ppe for silver soldering (assuming you are well ventilated)? I use oxy acetylene to silver solder most days and ppe would be cumbersome and quite frankly not needed. There are no sparks to set fire to my clothes so as long as I point the hot firey end in the right direction there is no risk to person. I never use the oxy gear if there is anyone else in the workshop or even likely to enter as this is where distraction lies and error ensues. I often work in shorts and tee shirt as I have severe psoriasis with no ill effect to date. Otherwise I do regularly wear thick leather gauntlets, leather apron etc for welding and ear defenders.

The motor would be worth a few pounds but as Robbo points out, we dont know what its for so cant comment on its suitability. Might make selling it difficult though.

Very nice boiler Julian,If you have the experience and equipment (including the ability to redesign) then in my experience the TIG option is a doddle compared to SS. Problem is copper boilers are one massive heat sink and lots of amps are required. If done correctly TIG joints are a work of art, if you like that sort of thing. For DIY home use it has to be SS due to simplicity and the option to rework if required. Its ten past eight on a friday night and im going back into the workshop - mad!

It is my business - never mentioned or discussed on here due to my sensitive nature!

Hi Michael - for my sins this is now what I do full time

Hi Lee. I have used both methods in the past. Overall silver soldered boilers in my opinion look better, but since no one actually sees most of the joints on a finished loco this is irrelevant. For longevity I would opt for tig all day as once the joint is made it will not change no matter what you throw at it. I opted to silver solder the tubes in just to make life easier for me. Tell the inspector of your plans and ask if he requires anything special - I don't have the exact dims for your boiler but it may well fall into the category which does not have ce certification so be aware of this. My commercially available 3" dia boilers are all silver soldered purely because of customer expectation but if i were making one for my own use it would be tig.

Thanks again

Thanks both....

which Diane Neil?

Hi Jim. I know nowt about horology but would have thought the two items you have listed would be far too cumbersome? What size items are you making...an atomic clock perhaps?

One of the first things we were taught at university (studying biochemistry) was just because something is written and explained in a text book doesn't mean that it is factually correct. Now this came as a complete shock to me as we were taught at school to research and reply. It is in a book, backed up mostly by supporting data and as such surely must be correct - alas no. This in effect makes telling people they are wrong, in my opinion, quite difficult at times. All one can do is relate to personal experience or reference your source. Many years ago on this very forum I recommended to a chap asking about regulators to pop to screwfix and buy a ball valve and install that as they are cheap and very reliable. A boffin from the petrochemical industry who clearly knew his stuff utterly shot my suggestion down stating that it was not designed for this application and would never work. I have been using them in boilers for years with complete reliability and success but he wouldn't have any of it. I think the moral here is to not tell someone they are wrong unless you actually know they are wrong. By doing this, even if it offends them you are ultimately doing them a favor, that is assuming they take the blindest bit of notice!

I have this name written in my contacts relating to all things steam but I have no idea who he is or what he does - anyone enlighten me? Thanks

tomorrow i will try to knock it back into marketabke sense...not hopefull! one doctor in a & e..pure luxary !!

Youve spent all week on a customers boiler, your at the end of the final silver solder heat up and you knock it off the bench onto the concrete floor. Spoilt my night that has!

i agree with JA... i cut mine to shape with a plasma type 1mm disk then grind. I use inserts onlt for milling (they are brilliant) and high speed turning.

Im machining a lump of 6" dia 6082T6 at the moment, absolute joy to turn. I get all mine from the Aluminium Warehouse online - 3 grades to choose from.

But it gives no insight as to penetration, gas flow rate ot material temp - get any of those wrong and your helmet wont compensate

For anyone who does want to use stick, never leave your rods anyplace that isnt heated. They absorb water and then are almost impossible to use. Professional welders almost always have them in an oven. If you are having difficulty try warming them to 50 deg c then have another go - you will be amazed at the difference it makes.

I worked as a coded welder on BNFL projects for too long with very good equipment but all I have now is a clarke 170amp mig (says 151 but when cold it wil put out 170ish) No euro torch, just a cheapo unit which I can just about get into spray mode if cranked fully up and cold. For thw money it is brilliant. Mine is an older version of the 151EN and these are good enough for home use. I modified the roller carrier to strengthen it up as this is a weak point, especially if you are running fast wire speeds. I would very strongly advocate buying or renting a 1/3 or 1/2 size bottle as you will need a decent flow rate outdoors and the poxy little cans empty extremely quickly. Only just read the above post!! Marc, mine run from an RCD and it will trip but only at full duty cycle by which time the earth lead is about to melt anyway

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