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Member postings for Francis Sykes

Here is a list of all the postings Francis Sykes has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: case hardening with sugar-question about terms used
26/06/2012 23:25:07

Given that I enjoy working in the sugar industry in the UK, I can say with relative authority that both cane and beet derived sugar are the same, chemically and sweetness wise . The process of crystallisation and the purity of the end product guarantees you won't see a difference .

Posted by David Littlewood on 26/06/2012 12:11:08:

I suspect the reason for suggesting the use of sugar instead of charcoal for open-air case hardening is that it will melt and stick to the steel, whereas charcoal won't. It certainly contains plenty of carbon atoms.

I've never heard the suggestion before that cane sugar is sweeter than beet. I was about to get all chemist on you and say that they are both sucrose ,and it will taste exactly the same irrespective of its source. On reflection, it is possible; sucrose is a disaccharide formed from two monosaccharides, glucose and fructose. Glucose is about half as sweet as sucrose, but fructose is twice as sweet. Thus if the sugar (sucrose) is partially hydrolysed, split into its two components, it could tast a little sweeter. So, possibly something in the processing could make a difference - and possibly cane sugar contains more than pure sucrose. Anyone know? (or care!).

David

25/06/2012 22:13:34

You want Silver Spoon!

But yes, it's one of the two British sugar producers.

Thread: mini mills - which is the best?
16/06/2012 15:42:22

For what it's worth, I bought the 2217-30 from SPG Tools last year - it arrived before Christmas.

I've only given it a small amount of use so far, although it's seen action on mild steel, aluminium and nylon so far. Most of the time since I've spent building/welding together a cabinet/stand for it. It did make some slots in the top of the unit (3mm mild steel) for coolant drainage (going to cobble up a coolant set up for it, have washing machine drain pump at the ready for this duty!)

Good machine, although as yet I haven't done anything needing lots of precision so can't comment on that. It's the equivalent to the Warco WM-18, but was significantly cheaper than the Warco at the time.

Pleased to see the price has gone up by £200! Glad I got it when I did.

It's 215kg (when I finished the stand a couple of weeks ago, an engine frane was used to lift it up), so relatively hefty for a bench mill.

Thread: Newbie with Soba parting tool question
23/05/2012 22:49:47

I have a similar parting tool - just bought from RDG.

It has a 9mm shank - and I had to make some packing to get the centre height correct - I have a home made single toolpost arrangement that merely clamps the tool to the compound slide. I just milled off some 3mm aluminium to make it the correct height.

I guess that doesn't help you too much, if you need it lower then perhaps mill off 2mm off the bottom of the shank?

Thread: Which Universities do people recommend for Mechanical Engineering?
09/04/2012 22:30:11

I went to Brunel University in Uxbridge - it was (early 90's) at the time the best university for percentage of graduates in jobs within 6 months of finishing the course. Mostly this was down to the majority of courses being run as sandwich courses.

So, first piece of advice, whatever university, do a sandwich course (it adds a year ot the qualification, mostly now they'll be thick sandwiches, i.e. study years 1,2 and 4, but year 3 is out working, that's for a BEng). It'll put you nearer the top of the CV pile when it comes to applications, apart from the practical real business grounding it will give you.

Where I work we've got most of our undergraduate placement engineers from Loughborough, good university, many companies like to get Loughborough students, and quite a few of them big names too.

There are other good universities of course, I'm just speaking of the ones I know!

My brother did UCL for his mech eng degree too, but then he went into IT, so it must have been rubbish... (joke, btw).

Thread: Flat battery
11/03/2012 09:03:58
I used to solder these packs up in my radio controlled cars days. The cells used are almost exclusively sub C size, the best way to solder them is with multicore soft solder and a relatively large soldering iron, as said before, with minimal time on the cell. I use a 40 watt Weller, commonly available.

Good luck with your fix!
Thread: Respirators
01/02/2012 21:10:00
A few notes from me:

- Air fed masks for automotive spraying are normally where two pack isocyanates are being sprayed, they give off cyanide in their use. Unfortunately this is at the same time as being about the best paint for vehicles.

- Air fed masks have an estimated or foam skirt that seals around your face. Without this, there would be quite a loss in effectiveness and a great increase in air consumption. A proper air fed mask demands upwards of 6cfm in use. That's going to be a 2hp compressor minimum, which would be on the limit. There is then no spare capacity for the spraygun if you're using that.

- A previous reply mentioned filtration of the compressed air supply. At 2hp + the machines will be oil lubricated. Normally a special filter set is used, with extra fine filtration, an oil and a water separator. The mask will have a belt with a carbon filter on it. A set up, compressor, mask and filter I think is going totaled you to around ?450 plus.

- For cellulose vapour, yes air fed would be great, but a mask with the tight vapour filters would work.

Hope this helps.
Thread: Milling - what do i need
29/01/2012 22:57:50
I agree Terry, my drilling vice is okay (I used it to machine a nylon piece last time) - it does suffer jaw lift on tightening, I think it'll do for work that doesn't require the last word in precision (most of what I do at the moment!!) - but I think I may be saving the pennies for something better at some point.
 
Or better still, being patient and waiting for something decent to come up second hand at the right price.
Thread: wind up torch
29/01/2012 22:54:45
The big gain here I think has been LED technology. Lots of light now for little power. I've been buying 5LED battery torches recently and not necessarily keeping the LED's in the torch... Cost is around £2 including some dodgy AAA batteries!
 
I'm planning on combining a couple of these units with some old mains phone chargers I've got to put some lighting onto the milling machine.
 
Slightly different tack, I got a Phillips GU10 replacement LED spotlamp to replace a blown one in the bathroom, you know, the ones they seem to put everywhere in modern houses that take a fair wattage and last 5 mins each. Finally they've got it right with colour, brightness and beam spread, and 4W instead of 35W.
Thread: Milling - what do i need
29/01/2012 22:12:38
I bought an SPG tools R8 spindled machine before Christmas, and told people I wanted tooling (or contributions towards) for my machine as presents.
 
Anyway, I bough/obtainedt:
 
R8 metric collet set
Metric end mill and ball end mill set
M12 clamping set
150mm rotary table (an extravagance...)
R8 fly cutter set
R8 metric boring bar
100mm drilling vice (should have bought a milling vice probably..)
 
I had a DTI and stand already.
 
So I guess I bought my way into what I needed, but I started to think about the jobs I wanted the capability to do.
 
I got R8 as my understanding is that R8 tooling is available cheaply second hand, and I've got a friend with a Bridgeport, so borrowing his tooling is possible! I went for collets over an ER32 for the reasons already stated.
 
Thread: T nuts
08/01/2012 21:32:04
I bought a 14mm set of tee nuts when I bought my new milling machine. The were a little too wide at the base to fit the T slots on the machine, so my first ever milling job was to reduce the width slightly. Fit of the narrower section of the T slot was perfect though. I don't know how strong a standard exists on T nut/slot dimensions, or perhaps it does exist but is one of those that the Chinese manufacturers don't apply very strongly. Easy job though and sorted now.
 
As for needing a vice to make tee nuts, as said earlier, why not just drill the ends of a strrip and use suitably sized bolts for the moment to clamp it to the milling table?
 
Studding, I guess it is very variable. Last studding I got I think was M8 or M10 - it was for making a small tool for pulling suspension bushes into place in situ on Mrs Sykes' Fabia. It was stainless, and did the job okay, although I think it was on the limit of its capability. Other studding can be like toffee. I guess there is just huge variability.
 
Ady - like the vice - any chance of a close up picture?
Thread: Amadeal XJ300 miller T slots
02/01/2012 21:52:02
No, you don't, the drill chuck is there for, well, drilling! You need either a collet set or a collet holder.
 
Personally I've gone for collets, just to maximise rigidity. But I believe the collet holders are quicker to use.
Thread: A Happy new Year to One and All
01/01/2012 01:32:53
Merry New Year to you too!
Thread: vertical slide or x1 mill attachment
01/01/2012 01:30:01
Of tee nuts supplied and did my first bit of milling. Used the side of a 10mm ball end mill to take 0.5mm off each side of the tee nuts in my 14mm clamping set so they'd fit the tee slots. Worked well and I got a good feel for some of the things I'd read about, cutting speeds, conventional vs climb milling and so on. No issues, maybe can see a little chatter in the finish but pleased so far.

The floor finish is simply garage floor paint, it's been down about 5 years and I need to re do it in patches. Generally good, I know spinning the back wheels of a 5.7 litre car takes it off( I was trying to recreate conditions of a misfire that only occurred under load...) and also making of a steel table for my lathe that involved moving cut ends of box section about has damaged it. I think it's fair wear and tear. If you want I can look up the brand, I've got an unopened tin of it still.
01/01/2012 01:21:55
Hello David, happy new year to you!

It was a pleasure to post up the pictures, and I was very excited once the large box landed!

As for prepping it for use, SPG had said just plug it in and use it. Well, whilst I'm sure that would work, I want to get the most life out of my investment, so I had a look through the Arc guide, and also the manual available on the Grizzly site, which was far more comprehensive than the one the machine is supplied with. It also gives a run in procedure for increasing machine speed in 10 minute intervals to bed things down, and it did make a difference.

I then cleaned off and degreased all the slides with a rag and White spirit, then relived with some cheapo Comma gear oil. I will probably look to get some proper slideway oil at some point. I didn't dismantle Anything other than the slideway covers. I may degrease and degrease the screws themselves, although there seemed to be little mention of the need for this in the documentation I had.

Finally, I set up my vice on the table with a couple
29/12/2011 00:38:41
Bob - it's whatever works for you. I probably should have started with a slide but instead attacked the problem from the other end!
 
David _ I went for the R8 taper too - although more so I've got interchangeability with Bridgeport tooling, friend of mine has one, and they seem to be the universal answer in industry too.
 
For what it's worth, the tilting head on the Sieg (and the slightly different type of machine I have) probably compromise rigidity a lot less than the X1 clones that have the whole column tilting. Still need to get out, clean off the slideways and do lubrication, and actually cut some material with the machine and get some understanding of my limitations and the pros and cons of it.
27/12/2011 11:57:47
Bob, congratulations on the soon to be grandfather status!
 
Firstly, I must declare my hand as pretty much a total (re) beginner in machining. I did a bit at school, and have had quite a bit of contact with 'real' machinists through work, but as at today - most of my answers are from my pondering/reading! (Which I seem to be able to do far easier than spending workshop time!!)
 
As for the vertical vs horizontal, yes, it'll be easier on the horizontal, you've got gravity on your side rather than as an enemy. Plus of course the limited size of a vertical slide really limits the clamping methods/options available to you.
 
I notice the Myford slide mentioned by Steve, from memory this type of slide looks the part, but I think you're into three figures to buy one.
 
Beware though, and apologies you're probably already aware of this, tooling for the lathe or the mill for milling operations quickly mounts up cost wise.
 
Automata - I remember doing one for a CDT project at school. It was two little wooden cars going back and forth behind a wodden 'flyover' - it was simply two pivoted wooden bars driven by a crank made of bent steel rod. The bearings for the crank I made (not brilliantly) from acrylic, or maybe nylon, on a tiny model makers lathe. Happy days!
Thread: Half nuts
27/12/2011 10:06:09
For what it's worth, and I didn't think it was clear to me reading the top posts, there are two meanings for half nut:
 
i) - the locknut that is spoken about above (effectively a half height nut)
 
ii) The split type nut found most often in a lathe saddle to clamp onto the leadscrew. It is two half threaded pieces. A quick google image search brings this up straight away for anyone trying to visualise.
 
I know the poster wanted the lock nut variety - I was surprised by the dual meanings of this word in the same subject - I can imagine a 'fork handles' type sketch with a storeman asking for a half nut...
Thread: Choice of small milling machine
27/12/2011 10:00:45
Thanks for the Grizzly tip - downloaded their manual for the size down machine from mine - it's far more comprehensive than the one that came with the machine.
Thread: vertical slide or x1 mill attachment
27/12/2011 09:58:52
I'm no expert on this, but I was thinking about a vertical slide for my lathe (3.5" drummond) - but whilst I could think of ways to do larger pieces of work that I'd want to do, in the ned I bought a WM18 clone.
 
Anyway, back to answering your question, I think the question you have to ask yourself is what work will you want to do, and will either solution be sufficient to allow you to do it. If you look at the For Sale section today there is a Sieg X1 complete for a good price. If I hadn't got mine I think I'd have snapped that up.
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