Member postings for Paul Lousick

CAD drawing software can draw a circle thru 3 points and then can be dimensioned to find the centre and diameter.

A lot of models that are running on air are not driving machinery and they only require a small volume of air and will run at a low pressure to turn them over. An engine driving a loco or a traction engine requires a larger volume and pressure to pull a load. This would require a big compressor and receiver to supply the air required.

A 3" scale traction engine for example will run on air from a workshop air compressor (suitable size for spray painting cars) but the 80-100 psi pressure will quickly be exhausted and the pressure may drop to 20-30 psi. This is not enough pressure to pull a load in a loco or traction engine.

Injectors for supplying feed water to the boiler will not run on air.

Also does not smell and sound as good.

Edited By Paul Lousick on 01/04/2013 23:23:49

I have just machined the bore and the location flange on the steam chest for my 6" scale traction engine. The steam chest was too big for my mill and lathe so borrowed a friends.

The far side of the steam chest is tapped to mount a cover plate and I used these holes to mount it to an old car brake disk. First machined the the faces of the brake disk, then bolted the steam chest to it.

This mill is a little bigger than my Sieg X3 (table is 1m wide x 8m long). The steam chest is the little thing under the cutting head.

Site for a number of 3D printer kits. Most work by melting plastic and extruding it thru a small nozzle. By moving the nozzle in all 3 axis, the model is created.

http://pinterest.com/finklean/diy-3d-printers/

Not sure if it is a rotary type of pump or not. Suspect it is not as it produces a vibratory sound. From my first test, it will self prime vertically with a 900mm suction hose and deliver approx. 1 litre/min.

I plan to incorporafe a magretic filter and a strainer to collect swarf in the coolant. Would also prefer a low voltage pump but will ensure that wiring is protected. Also have earth leakage protection on the power circuit in case of electrical failure.

At a cost of $25 it is worth trying. (should be better than the car windscreen pump which I am currently using). Will keep you updated after further testing.

Paul.

Edited By Paul Lousick on 29/03/2013 12:11:14

Just taken delivery of an inexpensive coolant pump complete with strainer and fittings which was advertised on e-bay for $24.56 inc postage to Australia from Hong Kong. Took about 10 days for delivery. But the pump failed to work (open circuit on the power cable). A return message to the company was answered straight away and a replacement sent which works well. Excellent waranty service!

Initial tests with water: Pumps about 1ltre/minute at 1m head height. Also sucks water with 900mm hose connected to inlet.

AC 220V 50/60Hz Electromagnetic Fuel Magnetic Drive Pump for Lathe
Specification:
Product Name Magnetic Drive Pump
Model DC-1100
Cable Length 52cm/20.5"
Voltage AC 220V
Frequency 50, 60Hz
Material Metal, Plastic
Outlet Dia 6.3mm/0.24"
Tail Hole Inner Dia 7.7m/0.3"
Mounting Size 2 x 2cm/0.78" x 0.78"(L*W)
Mounting Hole Dia 5mm/0.2"
Size 11 x 4 x 5cm/4.3" x 1.57" x 2"(L*W*T)
Color As Picture Shown
Net Weight 322g
Package Content 1 x Magnetic Drive Pump

Description:
Feature: AC 220V, 6.3mm outlet dia, 50/60Hz.
Ideal for transferring abrasive chemicals and corrosive liquids e.g acids, adhesives, coolants, liquid metal.
Special design for mini lathe, milling machine, grinding machine, drilling machine, etc.

Web address:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC-220V-50-60Hz-Electromagnetic-Fuel-Magnetic-Drive-Pump-for-Lathe-Machine-/390509459580

or web site:

http://stores.ebay.com.au/au-deal-store (search for magnetic pump)

Long link edited.

Edited By John Stevenson on 28/03/2013 22:53:27

Clamp the jaws in the same way as you would hold a job. On the inside and grind the inside of the jaws and on the outside for grinding the outside jaws. You need to remove any slop when holding the work. (someone correct me if this is wrong).

Thanks David.

Just got my copy of MEW down under in Oz and thought that it was an excellent read. Especially the articles on making your own counterbores and sharpening trolley.

Paul.

Sorry Kris, I do not understand your comments. This posting started with th use of a $2.59 LED to light the work area on a milling machine.

Thanks for the feed back. I have seen some on the internet but they appear to be a bit expensive to buy. Will try a couple of home grown ideas and post my results if successful.

Regards, Paul.

Thanks Les, I can also run my mill in reverse.

Neil, No room to insert cutter from behind.

Ian, Do you have a suppliers name or a photo ? Is it too difficult to make ?

Hi John, I already have an an adjustable boring bar holder but to try and mchine the spotface on the opposite side of an 8mm hole would be a bit too squeezy.

This is what I was thinking of.

Shaft is passed thru hole and cutter attached to the underside. Should be able to use it on a mill which has chuck or collet secured with a drawbar to prevent it being pulled out.

Has anyone made a backface milling cutter for spotfacing the opposit surface of a hole ?

Hi John,

I do not have a Sieg lathe but have one of their milling machines and am very happy with it. The reports on the mill also stated that they did not work very well straight out of the box and needed some extra work but I did not find this. Have had it for more than a year w with no problems.

Paul

HI John, Had a closer look at your photo and think that I know what the problem is. You have the lights pointing up towards the ceiling and they are not shining onto your work. Gives a nice mood atmospere to the workshop though. A couple of tee light candles would probably have the same effect. Nice one !

Hi John,

Not sure which lights you purchased but mine are definitely bright enough to iluminate the work area. In fact I have removed the globes from the existing lamps (shown it top right of photo) because it was too bright. (Photo was taken in a dark room with only the LED lights turned on)

Paul.

Edited By Paul Lousick on 05/03/2013 21:40:34

I have used an old 12v dc plug pack to power the LED's. Also mounted a power outlet on the outside of the mill column and wired it to the main on/off switch on the mill. Added a double adaptor to supply power to the plug pack and also to the power feed. When the mill is turned on, the power feed and the LED's also come on.

Neil, I have a have stick of wax (about 70mm dia x 250mm long) that I purchased from the company where I get my band saw blades. Don't know what type of wax but it makes cutting easier. I just run the saw thru it before I make a cut.