Member postings for Paul Kennedy

Thanks guys but I think I will accept the challenge to resurecting this little girl.

I stripped the lathe's electronics earlier to familiarize myself with them and to see if i could spot anything obvious. Ive discovered the control board are sold for @ £100 and not worth that IMHO. anyway Ive attached a link to a preliminary sketch of the electronic circuit. Its rough and not to any 'STANDARD' but may be of use to someone.

Hey Guys, Looking for a little advice. Got a new, to me, sieg C0 lathe the other day. Its sustained some mechanical damage, bent lead screws, bent sheet metal, and bent carriage compound feed-screw. However the conduit sheath at the rear of the speed control and emergency stop was crushed flat. Now i suspected it of shorting the wires as the chuck does not revolve at a constant speed. It speeds up or slows down without any machining load being present. However when i turn the speed control to the off position, the chuck comes to a full stop as expected ! HOWEVER when i lift the small chuck guard, which engages the limit switch, connected to the power rail then the chuck spins for a second or two before coming to a full stop again. When i say spin its more like a short jog but its variable but not for longer than 2 seconds. So i stripped the control board out of the lathe situated in the underside of the lathe rather than de-solder wiring from the controls in the housing and un-crushed the conduit before pulling it far enough out to examine the wiring in the crush location and they seem for the most part to be :/ ok. There's some sign of cuts in the wire insulation but not fully through and not exposing copper. I know shorts could still occur but to my mind it would have been ok. I'm going to shrink wrap/ tape up the little damage there is to the wiring but i doubt this will resolve the issues. SO any electronics guys here familiar with the sieg C0 control board and power rails ? OK i know replace the control board may be my next move but hey I'm not made of money and on inspection of the power board or control board they are poorly soldered in places and not worth the asking price if you ask me. My hope was just shorted wiring but my fear is shorted surface mount components. Ive got a decent soldering iron, hot air work station and a fairly strong magnifier for such work and a cheep multi-meter etc but I'm no expert in these matters and while i have a steady hand and can recognize the basic components I'm unsure how to fully diagnose faults yet. So anyone able to help with this thorny issue ?

Ive just thought that the non constant speed could be a slipping pulley ? It still doesn't answer the chuck jog but that might also be a fault with it. The belt appears tight. I cant get it off without undoing the motor but maybe its worn and slipping ?

Edited By Paul Kennedy on 22/08/2021 13:12:06

Hi John, Thanks for the photo, ATM i couldn't make the unit anyway as i have no access to dividing head for gear cutting etc and likely miss some other important tooling :/ After reading your comment i assume the silicone drive ring simply slips under load and is mostly ineffective ? I'm very interested in the idea of a geared motor though. Would you have any recommendations on this perhaps ? I hop to keep costs down if possiable but yea things add up i know. I was even considering totally replacing the leadscrew and feed nut as its basically just M5 threaded rod and maybe upgrade it to M8 or even acme but .. I tend to take on too much so .. i will leave well enough alone for now.

Hey guys, Ive been looking for the SIEG C0 Auto feeder S/N:10153 for a while now and cant seem to locate on in the UK. LittleMachine.Com have them in the US but afaik they dont export. Anyone have ANY information on them ? I know the silicone drve belt/o ring is avaiabel from both arc euro trade and axminster but not the auto feeder unit itself. Id be greatly interested in any pdf or photo of its internals. pref with some dimmensions Any and all help is ofc appreciated.

So Great Britian, The hub of the British Commonwealth The leader of the free world, well we were at one point, The center of the industrial revolution and the world leader in manufacture but we cant make an abra file or coping saw blade. Sigh I'm going to emigrate.

Phoned Axminster this morning. A very good possabillity but its spiral blade and maybe just for wood. However you need the Japaneese Saw to use thes blages and they are currently out of stock of the saw that uses this blade type. 4-6 weeks wait for stock.

Errrr .... No :'( Sigh

5$ for 5 Blades. Sounds about right. Errr wait 15$ for International shipping on 5 coping saw blades = 20 $ or £18

Errrrrrr.... NO :/

£100 or nearest offer....errrrr NO :/

Hey Guys,

I'm disappointed to discover you can no longer get Abra files so what do we do ? Is there a modern equivalent ?

Hey guys, I've been looking to buy some parts from a user going by the alias of Old Iron. Unfortunately he seems to have dropped of the face of the planet :/ Again. I hope not for the eternal sleep. Anyone seen him about ? I've no idea of his identity nor do i have any contact information for him so my only recourse is to do a shout out to you all and ask if you see him or know him then politely ask him, if hes not to busy, to maybe give me a quick replay to my e-mails as I've tryed to contact him a few times now over the past month or so with no response.

Hey guys,

Its been a while since my last post and longer since i did any knurling ! I remember using a 3 head tool with 6 wheels as an apprentice. It might have been moore and wright or eclipse or similair. Anyway if memory serves it had fine, medium and course knurls on the wheels and the wheels themselves were possiabaly ground HSS. Quality anyway ! Now I've been looking and all i can find is cheepo chinesium rubbish. Can anyone comment on there quality or availabilty of a quality home brand ?

Much appreciated as always,

Paul

Still looking for origional bench mounted Zyto Countershaft btw

Any progress yet ?

Keith, Ive an eye on Optimum mill ! Also HBM. Chineesium imports fitted by German Engineers so fairly decent i reckon.

Thanks Michael, Usefiull Links TBS ! To Be Sure Bookmarked for future. Need to backup bookmarks at some point and maybe take some sort of website download backup for future as well :/ Arrgghhh so many things

Thanks Bazyle. I've already purchased 2 plumbers blocks weeks ago now before I revised my plans and started considering fabricating a replica of the origional. I Like the bungee cord suggestion but i'm thinking the weight of the frame alone should be enough let alone the shaft and motor and motor fixture plate. If you notice there's a kink or kick to the countershaft arm. The weight is down low and to the back but the shaft and pulley to the front a bit, i presume to keep them within reach of the belt and the machine operator but not so much that they will tilt forward during operation. I think this aspect will need to be carefully thought about, hence my request for accurate photo taken from the side so i can measure the angle and to get an indication of the height of the countershaft frame ! I can scale it and them measure it to get it reasonably close to the original. Also i forgot to say there is a support arm on the left hand side that has a round nut and handle to pinch the arm against the frame thus preventing or reducing the chances of movement so it wont be gravity alone ! I think the intent was for the operator to push the countershaft away from the lathe with one hand until adequate tension was achieved and then tighten the nut up with the other hand. Seems logical and straightforward and easy to make as well. Well if i had  a little more space to move that is.

Thanks for your help though.

Paul

Edited By Paul Kennedy on 14/01/2019 23:15:36

Opps, No worries Neil. I do forget that school children don't know swear words Thanks again for the help the other day. It is appreciated ! FYI I am happy to conform to the sites policy's regardless as I have found the chaps and yourself very knowledgeable and helpful and would not wish to distress or shock anyone especially the latest generation of snowflake. I hear that the term snowman in no longer acceptable either ! Kids are taught that you need to refer to snow sculptures as snow people. Really REALLY. I fully realize and accept the need for a Code of Conduct. Most workplaces operate under some such guidelines at work. However most of the staff take the preverbial out of the C.o.C as well I've run into some issues online before with swearing or some such and would be grateful for help in avoiding further issues ! So ...

While were on the subject, without sarcasm, trolling or any ill intent, where do we draw the line on what is classed as harassment or bullying. What is offensive exactly and when is PC actually oppression. Do we BAN HUMOUR ?I've seen a few distasteful you tube videos of feminists and SJW's (social justice warriors) but I've also seen many celebs and spokepersons speak out against them. Even Stephen Fry, a comedian I have a lot of respect for while i don't necessarily agree with all of his politics as he was a bit too far to the left is now suggesting the PC culture is getting foolish. His college, whats his face, black adder, is also now also standing up and rejecting the PC culture. Is that racist these days i wonder because it uses the word Black. I would say bring back Benny Hill, Rising Damp , Steptoe and Son and lest we forget Alf Garnet but to be honest I'm too tired and have better things to do with my time than argue online with SJW's or listen to Trolls try to provoke me or PC hypocrites tell me what to think. I will think what I want and i will say what I want but I won't do it here as this is not the place for that !

I accept i made an error in trying to inject some humour where i should have stuck to the subject and only the subject without letting personal beliefs,politics and feelings cloud the subject. But come on seriously !

Meanwhile i shall retreat to my mind and fill it with thoughts of countershafts.

>< Unless thinking of shafts is also inappropriate. The badgers will likely ok that off-course.

As is there right off-course.

However more important issues remain. That of defending the honour of the proud and distinguished Mr S Tyzack and lest we forget his son. They produced a truly fine little lathe, much improved upon on earlier lathes and sadly left to languish too many years without major improvements. Now becoming a rare breed.Much like snowmen. However I need to point out us impoverished Northeners are somewhat restricted to the amount of space we can devote to our toys. Mine is in the living room ! I do what I can with the tools i have. As many a man would say you can only bleep with the bleep you've got Who has the right to judge a man for the clothes he wears or the way he talks ! I cant review it however as I've never run such a small lathe before but it is an attractive wee thing and nice to look at. While others might overlook such a fine wee machine. I think they do so in error. For 'from acorns mighty oaks grow' after all.

Im sorry everyone I do go on sometimes. I only wanted some pictures of Countershafts :/

>< LOL

Meanwhile if anyone is still reading this theres a really Funny new South Park esk Cartoon Series available to watch on You Tube. Its about Mining in Australia. Anyone that likes southpark humour should check it out but only if your over 18 and out of nappies. I wont link you too it but its very much in the vein of south park and perhaps made by the same two funny lads that did southpark ! Anyway its called Mining Boom. A funny and healthy look at Work and ... well you just need to watch it. Its not totally offensive but fairly close and ticks just about every box that it could without crossing the line. My line at least ! I don't think it has a PG rating or 18+ for that matter but there is a warning before you watch it. If your sensitive at all about well almost anything really, then you should probably not watch it.

OK I'm done, i'm off to play with Autocad now. And maybe get another cuppa tea. and a chocki biscuit. Hmmm

Paul

Adam,

I've someone on the job looking for one for me and Id rather the original, however there is a number of problems, the worst is i'm an impatient ******at times so much so that my knick knacks itch and i don't have crabs, least i don't think i do SO That being said, i'm very keen to get cracking and build one. I've been thinking it out in my head and made one or two sketches of the original bench mounted design. What i'm planning is welding up steel plate, angle iron, flat bar and round bar to make the frame and base. And then machine it. Easier said than done but it shouldn't be too difficult given the right tools. I think I have most of the main tooling i require but there's always something you miss.Im really lacking actual workspace and might have to wait untill the spring summer or at least untill i get some dry weather and try tackling it outside in the carpark or the green. No welding bench either so it will have to be a plate of steel on a B&D Workmate Workbench ! I'm also looking for better photos for a start so i can import them into autocad and then scale them correctly with a known size so i can generate reasonably accurate plans compared to the original bench countershaft. So i'm playing myself at this point but thinking and planning don't cost me any cash so.

If my friend fails in his quest then I hope to be prepared to just make one for myself but id need to reach into my pocket to buy the materials, and misc other stuff to do the job. I know i don't have a through hole boring bar for instance so there are things i'm still missing that i will need to make the thing. I'm also thinking about putting bearings on the spindle rather than bushes or maybe it just ran in the bare cast iron back then. Bushes or bearing. Hmm not sure on that one yet. Olite bushings is more authentic if still not strictly speaking original but the whole frame is fabricated and not cast so is there any point in even trying to be authentic with the frame :/ My first hurdle is to get some decent photos that both show the details and are reasonabaly square on so i can scale relatively accurately. I've put out some feelers out to a guy that I think has the lathe I displayed earlier.The pulleys will be another problem but i will see what i can do about that nearer the time if i go ahead with it. It seems everything you do at home suffers from the chicken/ egg problem. you need the tool to make the tool to make the bracket used on the thigy me jig to clamp the whatsnot so you can, i dont know, make the part. Or you can spend a wad of cash on stuff you will likely only use a half dozen times.

Also I dont want to start this only in a month or two have my mate say hes found it and for me to have wasted the little spare cash on stuff to make the countershaft when i could have bought one if id just been a bit patient !

Another route is to bolt two plumbers blocks to some 2x4 and jury rig something out of that but thats not really me although if i was in the desert or at sea i would because id have to. Ive seen a photo off your older countershaft and have also considered an intermediate solution. Ive seen a photo of a countershaft whose frame was made from unistrut as well which was both an inspired solution but ********* rough as a badger's ********* ><

For anywone reading this i have no experiance with badgers *********nor any ********* in any shape or form. And in the interests of being Politically Correct thats not to say anyone who happens to be interested in the aforemention is in any way mental.

Also no badgers were harmed during the writing of this posting

I kinda want the original but also want to make it so i can say 'I made this !' :D

Will keep you posted !

Im of for a cuppa tea.

Paul

Edited By Paul Kennedy on 14/01/2019 18:35:43

The opposite side if interested.

Edited By Paul Kennedy on 14/01/2019 18:48:16

Edited By JasonB on 14/01/2019 19:42:44

Thanks Neil, I've not done the necessary calculations as yet but I'm leaning towards a 20 degree pressure angle looking on the website the tooth profile matches my teeth perfectly. I will fire up autocad at some point to confirm this however..

Some x10 Photos.

Myford gear is on the bottom.

Edited By Paul Kennedy on 13/01/2019 15:53:59

UPDATE !!!

Hey guys the HBM was supposed to fit the Myford and I was worried that the Myford Gear also was similar albeit the photo was maybe not clear as Michael pointed out. So I went up to my garage and sought out an original Myford Gear from the ML7 and it appears to be the same pressure angle as the HBM and also the Myford photo that Nicholas kindly linked me to. The Zyto gear is different.

The Myford Gear is on the left. It appears obvious to me but the Zyto teeth seem longer and sharper. The base width of the teeth appear to be the same but the zyto tooth point narrows quicker than the Myford. Perhaps a pressure angle of 10 degrees ? There's very little in it and im fairly sure the myford gear would work but Im curious now how i can confirm my suspicions about the zyto tooth pressure angle ?

I've since put the gear teeth under x60 magnification and the tooth point on the Zyto gear is most definately narrower than that of the Myford. All other dimensions such as bore diameter, thickness and keyway depth and breadth appear the same.

Edited By Paul Kennedy on 13/01/2019 14:07:36

Edited By Paul Kennedy on 13/01/2019 14:17:49