Member postings for Emgee

John

I think I can see a Blue conductor going to the Z terminal and certainly a Yellow conductor on AZ, to reverse the motor change these over. (Yellow to Z and Blue to AZ)

Emgee

Edited By Emgee on 22/11/2015 18:01:53

As has been suggested cover the machines and run a low wattage lamp in the tent formed by the cover.

A dehumidifier in an uninsulated and unheated workshop is just throwing money to the supply company.

Emgee

Hi John

3 wires suggests a 3 phase motor which would be reversible by swapping over a pair of wires, are any details of motor voltage and current on the motor plate ?

Emgee

Hi Jake

You need to state what the maximum current demand is for both the 12v and 5v supplies, if you are tight for space the external power supply looks the way to go.

Emgee

Hi Bob

Great milling machine you have there but to do the thread in the 14" long tuned pipe wouldn't leave much room for tooling but I guess it may be possible. For threads in the Tee nuts my choice would be a tapping head, far quicker but I guess you were just demonstrating the machine's versatility.

Emgee

Jake

I have a similar project minus the mini usb cable. I am using a 12vDC supply to a pcb which also has a Voltage regulator on board to provide the stable 5vDC supply, I'm sure someone with electronic knowledge will provide a solution for you and list of parts needed.

Emgee

Not done today but yesterday, used the new internal threading tool to make a thread in the end plate of a model engine tuned pipe. The original stinger had broken and so no place for the silencer can to fit to. The new stinger was made a few days ago ready to fit into the f/m thread.

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Video of the boring and threading on Youtube, search for: ukmwg

Edited By JasonB on 19/11/2015 13:31:43

Oliver

I always use the same method as Jason, no worries about glue release and repeatable set-up each time.

Emgee

Another use could be to measure the height of a keyway fitted key above the OD of a shaft.

Emgee

Tools now heat treated/hardened, held at carrot for 1 minute then fully quenched in whale oil !!!!!

Good advice from Robjon re fully formed inserts and his method to form threads. More pics of the tools in my album.

Muzzer

Silver steel for the 8mm and 10mm, EN8 for the 12mm, heat treating the SS today, will use the 12mm as is.

Emgee

James

Because the insert cutting surface is above the centre of the holder when viewed end-on, if the tool diameter will not pass in the bored hole, it will be necessary to rotate the tool in it's holder and cut the thread with negative rake. I haven't found this to be a problem with partial profile inserts, no different to using a boring bar with neg rake.

The N.16 insert is mounted on a 12mm shank to avoid using with neg rake as the tip is full tooth profile, normally the shank for this size insert is 16mm diameter.

The centre tool below has flats top and bottom for use in a standard toolholder, that gives an idea of the tool angle in use.

I normally use these tools in a rotary toolchanger so it is simple job to rotate the tip if required.

James

Some of the tools I finished today, they are all for internal threading and use commercially available inserts that are available in all thread types and as you are advised full and partial thread forms. The largest tool has a 0.50mm insert the other 2 are just 60 deg cutting inserts that will cut up to 1.5mm threads. I had to make a replacement tool for 12mm ID threads and while set up it was simple to cut the additional 2 tools.

The 3 sizes are 08, 11 and 16 and are shown in order on the tools with diameters of 8mm, 10mm & 12mm. The seat is 60 degrees included and cut 30 degrees each side of the tool centreline.

Some more pictures in my Album.

Could be you have some blades with poor joints, my experience has been with the same type of saw that if the blade cut square and didn't slip it must have enough tension.

Emgee

Just read your last post and the jump is a bad joint in the band, 

Edited By Emgee on 01/11/2015 20:54:13

Hi Steve

Not sure on the size of chuck, 80mm or 100mm, fitted originally but seems an 80mm would suit the size of the lathe, depending on your build plan you may want to consider a 100mm 3 jaw SC,

The front mounting type you looked at is useful as it allows you to remove the chuck with a turned part in-situ, you can then mount the chuck on a rotary table or other device knowing the turned part will still be concentric. The fixing screws for the 80mm front mount are smaller than the tapped holes in the backplate so you will have to drill and tap new fixing points.

In any case measure the backplate spigot that fits into the chuck recess to see if you can buy a chuck with the correct diameter recess so matching the spigot on your existing faceplate. From the picture posted you also need to confirm depth of recess will clear your spindle nose.

Emgee

Edited By Emgee on 01/11/2015 20:46:43

Graham

When as suggested by Brian testing the collet fit in the bored taper make sure you have a max size ground rod in the collet, saves it collapsing at either end to match an incorrect taper.

Emgee

Not complete rubbish, my Bantam suds pump has been running when needed for the past 15 years with such a connection.

Emgee

Ian Parkin, pm in your Inbox.

Emgee

Be careful if using printing ink, it is a known cause of cancer.

Emgee

Hi Graeme W. I agree 100% with your description, droplets being sprayed on the work, not a true misting system which have received bad reports. My system can be seen working at the following link.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRiiEywpzZk

Emgee