Member postings for Brian G

Can you measure the recess in the back of the chuck (or the register on the spindle)? Axminster say the C2 Lathe has an 80mm chuck which would normally have a 55mm recess (the register) which is what I assume the 160mm faceplate to also have, but if your machine has a 100mm chuck it may have a larger register, perhaps 72mm.

Brian G

(edited to remove rogue emoticon)

Edited By Brian G on 08/12/2019 15:45:19

Edited By Brian G on 08/12/2019 15:45:36

There were several foundries making letter boxes for the post office, later boxes have the maker's name cast into the box below the door, although the only ones I have ever really noticed are Carron and W T Allen.

Brian G

Apart from the Carronades, their most famous products were pillar boxes and phone boxes.

Brian G

Possibly Scunthorpe and Penistone should get together and twin with the most famous village in upper Austria?

(good luck with googling THAT 

I'll get my coat...

Brian G

Edit:  The wink was unintenional, (bl**** emoticons), but I think I'll let it be

Edited By Brian G on 03/12/2019 10:47:19

Shaw said England and America were two countries separated by the same language, and this thread seems to prove he was right, so it might be worth adding that petrol = gasolene, white spirit = mineral spirit and woodbine = an unfiltered cigarette

Brian G

Yes, mine came with the double ended spanner for the barrel and ratchet. Cromwell/Zoro don't seem to be very good at descriptions as they don't mention either the spanner or the setting standard that is shown in the picture of the larger micrometers.

Brian G

Edit:  I suspect from the markings and the fact that zoro.com sell Insize in the US that Kennedy micrometers now come out of the same Chinese factory as the Insize 3203 series.

Edited By Brian G on 28/11/2019 08:59:04

The ones I linked to were "joint square edge" Michael, as I assumed that the slots should have a flat bottom.

Brian G

EDIT:  Sorry Michael I finally grasped what you meant, follow the saw with a slotting or round edge file then finish off with the square one.

Edited By Brian G on 27/11/2019 17:44:13

For a VERY narrow slot, perhaps the fine-toothed Zona razor saws might be suitable. Chronos list several . For a wider slot, how about a joint square edge file like these from Arc ?

Brian G

Perhaps worth mentioning in the context of this thread that this week Zoro have a "black friday" promotion and the 0-25mm Kennedy micrometer is reduced to £16.99. Mine arrived this morning and whilst it is still at the bottom end of the price range, it feels nice to use, has clear markings and gives repeatable results. Having said that, the £10 "Whale Brand" micrometer I was using was as accurate (using the ratchet, I couldn't get repeatable results with the thimble as it felt rubbery, unlike the Kennedy which comes to a solid stop), but I do this for pleasure, and it just didn't feel as natural in the hand as those I used in industry. The Kennedy does, so I just ordered the larger sizes to make up a set.

Brian G

If buying again I would probably go for Kennedy as I have used their measuring instruments for many years at work and they aren't much more expensive than the real cheapies. I hadn't heard about their being made by Mitutoyo, but it wouldn't surprise me, my Kennedy digital caliper is an exact clone of a Mitutoyo of the same vintage.

Personally I'll own up to using a really cheap "whale" brand micrometer. It's measuring surfaces are flat, it agrees at 3 points with my inch Starrett (so the thread should be right) and its ratchet is even enough to get repeatable readings.

Brian G

He must have had to push the saw nearly 12" before it started cutting if my Maxi was anything to go by.

Brian G

I like the idea of a limit switch to enforce a fixed location for the chuck key. Not so much for safety (I have an interlocked chuck guard) but to save my regular 5 minute searches for it. I suspect that my son would say that a silhouette board or french-fitted drawer with switches for my micrometers, calipers, toolholders, scriber, rules etc. might be even better.

Brian

An electrically interlocked cage like that used for a press comes to mind, but possibly a bit OTT for a home workshop. Personally, (and possibly wrongly) I am less nervous of a shaper than a milling machine because its rotating parts are fully enclosed. Whilst a shaper could inflict a nasty injury, a reciprocating machine probably won't pull you in like a lathe, mill or drill (or even a powerful office shredder, a colleague was nearly strangled when his tie went in with the paper).

Brian G

I couldn't remember exactly what I had done, so I have renamed my Ultimaker Cura 4.3 folder and then repeated the update to check it. I would suggest that you rename any Cura folders to protect them before trying any of what follows. This is what worked for me but no guarantees it works for you, hence my suggestion to protect your old version.

I had the same message about resetting when going from 3.6 to 4.3 but instead of clicking "reset" just closed the message box. Then I manually copied the .def.json configuration files for my printer and its extruder (in my case these were anycubic_kossel_plus.def.json and anycubic_kossel_plus_extruder_0.def.json I assume that yours will be similar but with the name of your machine) from the Ultimaker Cura 3.6/resources/definitions folder into the newly created Ultimaker Cura 4.3/resources/definitions folder. I then launched Cura 4.3 without getting warning message and it allows me to select the printer and create valid gcode that is printing now.

I haven't got Cura 15.xx but looking at the earlier versions that are on my PC, I notice that in the past each printer only had a .json file, whilst 4.3 uses .def.json files. You could perhaps just try renaming the extensions of your copied files to suit? Sometimes new file extensions are just a proprietary name for an existing file type. I have absolutely no idea whether this is done to protect an application from revisions to the existing file type, to allow for changes, or just to obscure things.

BrianG

I never delete the most recent working version of Cura when I "upgrade" it. That way I can always go back to see if a problem is with the slicer, and I can open both versions alongside each other to confirm that they are using the same settings. Turned out useful when Cura 4.3 wouldn't recognise the printer files for my Kossell and I had to copy the settings over from 3.6 one by one. Oddly, 4.3 prints brims or skirts but like Andrew, I cannot get it to display them.

Brian

Yes it does, and I wouldn't be without one. I don't trust that a variable speed drive will remain at zero, and there isn't much indication that the machine is powered up. I also really don't want the excitement of a machine that starts after a fault, when somebody resets the emergency stop or because somebody pressed the switch after the power was turned off at the wall. At about a fiver from China or just over a tenner from a reputable UK distributor for a single-phase switch, I don't understand why anybody wouldn't want one.

Brian G

I always use one, even to the extent of fitting a shallower guard when using a collet chuck. Three reasons:

1) it stops me leaving the chuck key in;

2) open it indicates that it is safe to handle the work;

3) I have a form of intermittent partial or total paralysis which could cause me to fall onto the machine. I don't want to find out how long my face can rest on a rotating chuck before it penetrates my skull.

Whilst conditions like mine are vanishingly rare, I wonder how many here are diabetic, epileptic or at risk of a stroke, tia or a heart attack. Perhaps worth thinking about before casually encouraging anybody to ditch the guards?

Brian G

Sometimes an ISP's DNS server has a problem. If you think a website isn't working downforeveryoneorjustme does as its name suggests.

BrianG

The backplate bore looks like 52mm, which (assuming the plug bolts are 20mm diameter on a 75mm PCD) fits the Seig C6/SC6. If the bore is 50mm it fits the Chester DB10 Super.

Brian G

I can't read the patent number on your photo Martin, but have you tried searching for it? The "Japan Platform for Patent Information" has an English search page.

Brian G