Member postings for John Farmer 2

I have a 150kg lifting table bought new on Ebay about 5 years ago quite a bit cheaper than M/c Mart but still good quality. Ideal for moving w/shop machinery too.

I am also hoping to buy a 5" loco soon but my concern us how to hold it in place in the car (estate car in my case). What do others do - photos would be useful.

John

I am working towards construction of the boiler for a 1.5" Allchin. Looking ahead I have been studying the text and drawings and wanted to clarify something. The drawings (6 & 9) refer to a stay for supporting the end of the trunk guide which extends back from the cylinder. There is a reinforcing pad inside the boiler, which I have located, and then there is a curved angle bracket riveted above this pad on the outside of the boiler. There is then a short stay from this bracket to a lug under the trunk guide. It is the curved angle bracket I am concerned with since, if it is riveted to the boiler it must be fitted before assembly of the boiler, but I cannot find any dimensions of the bracket or any measurements showing its location. Can anyone advise on these points please?

Thanks,

John

My thanks to everyone with the ideas so far, much food for thought. Just to clarify, the flamefast I have acquired is just the basic brazing unit, i,e. a stand with a fireproof work surface and surround - no gas connections and no overhead extraction unit. The hole in the wall vents to the side of the garage over a path to a side door at the front of the house, thus I wouldn't want any external ducting or blower there.
I was thinking of erecting some sort of overhead extraction both the deal with the fumes, and to protect the garage ceiling, above which is a bedroom. However although it looks like a risk, am I overestimating the amount of heat rising up from brazing a boiler (in this case a 1 1/2" Allchin, about 13" long with a 3 3/4" barrel) ?
Fizzy's comments sound sensible regarding the fumes, but what about the fire risk to the building. Getting that much copper up to temperature needs a pretty large torch with a big output. This will be my first attempt at brazing on this scale, although I have done many smaller jobs, and some welding, hence my cautious approach (and the need to satisfy wife's concerns !)

Further thoughts welcome.

I am about to embark on my first boiler and I am setting up a brazing hearth. My workshop is a double garage, integral to the house. I have obtained a used Flamefast hearth which will be sited against an outside wall of the workshop. There is already a 6" dia hole through the wall above the hearth. In order to ensure maximum safety I plan to have some sort of hood over the hearth with an extract fan exhausting through the wall.
I am seeking advice on how to construct this and what kind of fan to use, bearing in mind the possible temperatures involved a few feet above the brazing operation and the need to ensure safety from fire. I want to keep costs sensible too!
How have others tackled this issue.
Thanks,
John

It worked - I'm in. Sorry for interrupting your flow....
John

It appears I need to "make a small number of forum posts" before I can respond to a classified ad (about old ME mags), despite having been registered with this forum for a good many years, and posted a couple of posts in 2014. So this is just one of my "small number".
John

Thanks for all the advice so far, all much appreciated. For old Al, yes I am already using the 60 degree topslide method. For Howard, I did think about turning down 10mm round, but shied away at the difficulty of then milling it down to 2mm (how do you hold the last bit!. So, I will be trying either the solder or the Loctite method which seem the easiest to try. It will be the end of the week before I am next in the workshop. I will try to remember to report back.

John

I am trying to replicate a small part from an antique mechanism, circa 1900. The part is made from 10mm x 2mm mild steel bar and one end is narrowed to 5mm for about 1cm length. This section, now 5mm x 2mm, has a 5mm thread formed on its narrow edges and I am having great difficulty replicating this section. I am trying to "screw-cut" in the normal way in a Myford, using a 60deg HSS tool and very slow cutting speed, and a depth of cut of 0.0025 inches at a time. I get so far but then the steel just twists and bends. The cutter is sharp. Any ideas on improving the method, or is there a completely different process for doing such a job? I have spoiled 4 pieces so far.

John