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Member postings for Beagle

Here is a list of all the postings Beagle has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Travelling Steady Question - Speed 10 / ML10 Owners
17/05/2012 13:39:39

Excellent - thanks both of you for your help and for checking against your own TS's. I'll skim the bolt threads and solve the problem in the proper manner then.

16/05/2012 15:45:06

Ah-ha!! The penny has dropped if that's the case - indeed I have a fully threaded bolt, but I figured that was the standard fitting. Sounds like it's not at which point I shall machine the top part of the bolt to a plain shank. You've just saved me drilling the steady and vandalising it

Many thanks Trev.

16/05/2012 13:31:29

Afternoon all,

Picked up a S/H travelling steady from one of the stands at Harrogate to fit my Myford Speed 10.

The TS mounts via a single bolt to the top of the saddle, where there is a threaded hole that's normally plugged via a set screw. Mounting procedure is basically remove set screw from saddle and bolt stand in place. However!...

For some curious reason the mounting hole in the TS is partially threaded itself i.e. the mounting bolt not only threads in to the saddle, but also into the TS. This obviously prevents me being able to properly nip-down the TS to the saddle, since the bolt is pulling against the TS threads instead.

Before I just clearance-drill the TS hole, am I missing something?!?! Anyone elses TS's threaded, and if so what for?

My assumption so far is that despite my purchase looking and smelling like a Myford original, maybe this was an unfinished casting that someone else has finished themselves (very well mind), but perhaps with an error on the mount hole.

Cheers. Clive

Thread: Gib Adjustment - how tight is too tight?
21/06/2011 19:14:25
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 17/06/2011 14:29:33:
Clive wrote: My Myford has the standard gib screws fitted (whatever Myford supply). Now I've not checked the ends of these yet to see the shape, but I'm guessing they'll be the commonly-available conical (pointed) or flat, rather than domed.
 
Not on my S7, they are beautiful black screws with the end reduced to the core diameter finished in a hemisphere. This thread has shamed me into taking out my locking screw and shoving a BB down the hole. There's quite a bit of inverse snobbery about Myfords on this site but it's little touches like this that make me grateful to have been able to buy a good s/h one.
 
 
Rod
 
Rod - I stand corrected! After your comment I pulled the gib screws on mine - they are indeed the dome-ended black finish bolts as you describe. I backed them off a smidge (maybe only 1/20th turn) but the difference between tight-saddle and sloppy-saddle is sooo fine.
 
Think I'll try Martins tip on blue thread lock and a subtle mallet 'whomp' next time!
 
I've alleviated the problem slightly by fitting a marginally larger diameter handwheel over the weekend - this allows me to keep the saddle snug(ish) but without making smooth one-handed end-to-end feeding too difficult.
 
Cheers guys.
 
 
17/06/2011 12:45:30
Pat, John,
 
Re: your comments about a BB between the gib adjust screw and the gib - how / why does this improve things? Common sense is telling me it probably should, but I'm just missing that vital link somewhere!
 
My Myford has the standard gib screws fitted (whatever Myford supply). Now I've not checked the ends of these yet to see the shape, but I'm guessing they'll be the commonly-available conical (pointed) or flat, rather than domed. You mention that a BB against the gib distributes the force better, but is it not still approximately similar to the pressure that a grub screw applies? - afterall, in relation to the whole gib area, the contact points we're talking about must be little more than 1-2mm^2 in either case?
 
I did try adjusting the gibs the other evening (although I was short of time so will try again properly soon). What I noticed was that the rock felt by hand / seen by eye increased from barely observable to a noticeable movement just through backing off gib screws by a minute amount - maybe only 1/20th of a turn. This itself seems over-sensitive to me, so I do wonder it the end profile of the grub screws is non-uniform, so that'll be my next check.
 
I may have some small bb's knocking around, so I'll perhaps try your tips and see if that improves adjustability.
 
Thanks guys,
- Clive
15/06/2011 15:25:56
'I started off looking for the nirvana of zero backlash etc but it's not worth the effort until you have an upcoming job which makes it worthwhile. And tighter jibs mean more wear on your leadscrew nut.'
 
Ady - Thanks, that makes good sense. I'll probably back them off a smidge then just so things free up a touch and to avoid premature wear. I guess I optimistically expected zero free-play, and fluid movement at the same time. Thinking about it more, I guess this is not an easliy realiseable situation - esp. when I'm deliberately measuring movement on a test bar which is prob 150mm away from the centre of rotation and thus magnifying the 'problem' perhaps worse than it is.
 
Rod - Perhaps my mis-terminology, but I'm refering to backlash between the saddle and bed caused by the gibs not being tight enough - what you call rock; rather than the longitudinal backlash between leadscrew and half nut. I'm trying to eliminate all the rock, whilst keeping free-and easy slide travel. What you and Ady have pointed out though is that this may not be possible (esp. on smaller machines), so I'm best off loosening the gibs a touch and then locking as and when machining permits / dictates the need.

Edited By Beagle on 15/06/2011 15:29:46

15/06/2011 13:01:50
I gave my Speed 10 a strip-down and clean a few months back with a view to keeping everything smooth and running nicely. As part of that job I obviously adjusted the gibs on all the slides. Now my cunning plan at the time was to mount a bar in the toolpost with a mag-base DTI on the bed - this would allow me measure any free-play movement of the saddle / crossslide / topslide relative to the bed, and thus take out movement as required.
 
I worked one slide at a time, locking off the others, and then applied gentle twisting loads by hand to each slide looking for movement on the DTI / toolpost test bar. Where I found it to be excessive I carefully adjusted the gibs a little tighter, attempting to get an even pressure along the gibs. In the end I happily got what I felt was a 'just' backlash-free saddle / cross / top slide assy. I put a good quality slideway lube on and figured all would be well.
 
A few months later and the slides still seem snug, but I am a little concerned that they may be too snug - the main saddle is beginning to leave darkened slideway oil on the bed, which suggests to me that I've got some metal-to-metal contact somewhere, and a lack of an oil-film - despite regular oiling. The main saddle handwheel is relatively 'snug' to turn - not tight - but not easy to get a fluid longitudinal movement of the saddle. I had put some of this down to the high gearing ratio between the handwheel and saddle movement, and the small radius handwheel needing a higher torque to move everything, but with the greyed-oil, I'm now thinking it's a smidge too tight.
 
Do people concur with this view, and what advice can anyone provide on optimum setting of gib strips?
 
Logic tells me that any backlash in the slides is probably bad, hence my attempts to take it all out - or do I have that wrong? (The Speed 10 is relatively low use, so I'm not convinced anything is particularly worn)
Thread: Reply to Post Disappears
04/06/2011 22:22:44
I have had similar troubles in the recent past; type a reply, hit post, and text dissapears with no post submitted. Seems to be how IE9 handles some websites.
 
The fix is to run IE9 in 'compatibility mode' (makes 'older websites display correctly' - not my words!). In the address bar click the little icon that looks like a page torn in two - that enters compatibility mode, then re-load the page (press F5 or refresh) re-enter your text and try submitting again. Probably doesn't make any difference whether it's 32bit or 64bit IE9 that's causing this issue although note that a huge number of IE9 users still favour 32bit IE9, because a number of 3rd party add-ons (including Flash) have only supported 32bit IE so far (I note there's another recent post on this).
 
As a tip for any website - prior to submitting a post select all the words in your posting (CTRL_A), and then copy them (CTRL_C) before you hit the submit button. The number of times I've lost text on websites....tsk. When it all appears to go wrong just paste your reply from the clipboard back in to a blank form again to avoid having to re-type.
Thread: Ultrasonic Cleaners - Experiences? Any Good?
30/05/2011 22:18:48
Guys, thanks for all the replies, loads of really useful info!
 
If I've read it all correctly, then in summary; they are an effective and useful workshop addition, although 100+ ultrasonic watt units are probably better for home workshop needs. A heater is not essential as there is some self-heating of the solution in use. Water on its own can be effective for cleaning most things, with addition of cleaners for more difficult to clean items.
 
The minor conflict I'm now having is with the price of the more powerful units. I had hoped to 'get away with' a ~ £60 unit, but these typically seem to be about 35-50W, which I guess comes under the probably best avoided category when I consider the types of things I want to clean (I have a filthy motorbike sprocket sat on the shelf ready to test in my aspired new purchase!). I'll do some digging and see if I can find a unit that fits my price / power needs. Alas, I've never bought a cheap tool in my life, so I reckon I can tell which way this is going to end!!
 
As a final query, can you clean really dirty parts within a separate container within the main tank? I.e. could I suspend say a plastic beaker within the main tank (with fluid in of course), then add parts to that, thus contaminating only the fluid volume in the beaker, or does this tend to attenuate the cleaning process?
 
Thanks all - Clive
 

Edited By Beagle on 30/05/2011 22:19:08

Thread: Toolpost
30/05/2011 20:37:00

Paul, et al.

For info I went and checked the Speed 10 (ML10) 4-way TP - the bottom portion is 7mm thick. That should give you some confidence that opening your ML7 one up to take a 10mm tool by taking the bottom of the TP down to 6mm thick should just about be ok. i.e. If the Speed 10 TP is originally 7mm thick out of the factory, then taking your ML7 one down to 6mm thick would probably be acceptable.

If you don't mind me hijacking the post slightly then I'd like to ask if anyone here would recomment the similar mod to the original Speed 10 4-way? To recap previously, it works with 6mm tooling only (I reckon centre height is slightly over at ~6.25mm). I'm really keen to open the door to 8mm tooling as there's much more available (esp. indexed tools). So do you think I'd get away with taking the bottom of the toolpost from 7mm thick to ~5.25mm thick, or am I treading risky ground?

I guess the issue is a combination of TP stiffness to resist tool chatter, and also to resist against clamp load and the tool leaving the post at a fair rate of knots with my head in the way?!

Thread: Ultrasonic Cleaners - Experiences? Any Good?
30/05/2011 09:50:22

Hi all,

I've been aware of ultrasonic cleaners for many years, but have never actually used one. At the recent Harrogate Show I saw some for sale and it sparked some interest again.

Does anybody own one, and if so do you rate them? Good / bad points?

In terms of what I'd like to use it for, then its basically the cleaning of pretty much any small mucky parts in the workshop - brake and metal dust and from mountain bike brakes, greasy model servo gears, motorcycle brake calipers, machine parts following stripdown, oily / coked engine parts etc etc. The things that normally take you 2+ hours in the kitchen sink with a toothbrush basically!!

Now I appreciate that they won't remove tarnish / corrosion, but in terms of simple cleaning of dirt / grease from intricate parts, are they the 'silver bullet'?

Must you use specific cleaning solutions, or can you still get acceptable results with plain water / drop of washing up liquid? Can you leave the solutions in the tank for months at a time for ad-hoc use, or must they be emptied and dried every time?

Finally, I note that prices vary from ~£20 up to ~£150 for similar sized tank units from various manufacturers. In terms of cleaning performance, do you get what you pay for, or do they all perform similarly and it's just the name and the shiny stainless housing that justifies extra cost over a cheap plastic model? ...Or put another way, is a cheap £20 one for cleaning jewellery going to put a shine to my motorbike sprockets caked in chain lube?!

Cheers all,

- Clive

Thread: Toolpost
30/05/2011 09:47:54

Paul, I don't suppose this is on an ML10 / Speed 10 is it?

I have the same issue - the OEM Myford 4-way limits you to 6mm tools (or just over, probably 1/4"). I too have been contemplating shaving ~1.5mm off something to open up the world of 8mm tooling, for which there are many more options available.

The question appears to be what to shave the metal off. The OEM toolpost probably doesn't have much to go at if you are wanting to retain stiffness in tool clamping. I have been contemplating more drastic action of skimming the 1.5mm off the top of the cast iron topslide body, which by contrast seems to have loads of spare material in it. Not decided which approach yet, but I know the toolpost is about £100 off Myford, so maybe finding out the price of a topslide body will make the decision for me!

Thread: 3 Jaw GS Chuck - maintainence / stripdown?
04/11/2010 12:53:18
Sorry for the double post - got a website error the first time, but it appears to have posted anyway. Can't see a delete post button...

KWIL
- cheers I'll perhaps give it another go when I can find a spare half-hour.
 
Ady - The guy I bought it off DTI'd it for me with a test bar in it and it was reading between 2-3 thou about an inch from the jaws. (I'll confess to having not yet checked it on my own machine yet). I subscribe to the if it aint broke theory, but I guess that was partly my original question - it's stiff to operate and a bit notchy, and cleaning the scroll through the jaw slots hasn't helped - therefore is it broke, or just tight?! 
 
The two old Pratt 8 inch 3 jaw GS chucks on my grandfathers Colchester Master were both loose enough that you could whizz the key around with 1 finger. I'm guessing that's too loose, but it's all I really have to go off.
 
 

Edited By Beagle on 04/11/2010 12:55:35

04/11/2010 12:52:57
KWIL - cheers I'll perhaps give it another go when I can find a spare half-hour.
 
Ady - The guy I bought it off DTI'd it for me with a test bar in it and it was reading between 2-3 thou about an inch from the jaws. (I'll confess to having not yet checked it on my own machine yet). I subscribe to the if it aint broke theory, but I guess that was partly my original question - it's stiff to operate and a bit notchy, and cleaning the scroll through the jaw slots hasn't helped - therefore is it broke, or just tight?! 
 
The two old Pratt 8 inch 3 jaw GS chucks on my grandfathers Colchester Master were both loose enough that you could whizz the key around with 1 finger. I'm guessing that's too loose, but it's all I really have to go off.
 
 
03/11/2010 12:16:20

Hi all,

I've just bought a second-hand Pratt Burnerd 4 inch, 3 Jaw GS chuck, with the factory fitted "made for Myford" backplate. It looks to be in excellent cond. and of low use.

However, the chuck is quite tight to operate and has a slight notchiness to it as it rotates. I've already removed the jaws, cleaned and lubed the scroll face, but it's not much better. I also quickly tried removing the backplate to gain access for a full stripdown, but it wouldn't budge easily so I left it for now.

Is this tightness / slight notchiness just a symptom of low use and tight manufacturing tolerances and will free-up over time, or does it sound like it would benefit from a strip down and clean? If the backplate is removed and goes back on in the same orientation, I assume accuracy won't be affected? Any top tips for removing tight backplates?!
 
Thanks,
- Clive
Thread: Belts - Maintainence & when to change?
08/10/2010 22:00:00
Thanks guys. The belts show the slightest hint of glaze on the sides, but based on what you've said, they're other wise not too bad. For a few quid, I'll probably pick up a couple of new ones and aim to get them fitted in the next month or two; if it runs better great, if no different then I have spares.
 
David - cheers for the heads up. I'd not had time to digest all of issue 169 yet, however if I had, then I'd have spotted that 170 may answer my questions!  
08/10/2010 13:10:39
Hi all,
 
Lathe drive v-belts - how should they be maintained, when / how often, and how do you know when it's time to replace them?
 
The obvious answer is once they've snapped of course, but I beleive in a more preventative approach )
 
I ask as I've recently picked up a ~20 year old Speed 10. It's in excellent condition, and if anything is probably suffering from under-use. As a result the 2 belts seem a little stiff and make a few squeaky / creaky noises as they rotate on the pulleys (it's definitley the belts!). They don't appear to slip, nor are cracked - just a bit noisy - kinda like the squirmy noises sports shoes make on a squash court.
 
Is this typical of a v-belt, or do they sound past their best and hence time to replace? Also any advice on using belt dressing / conditioning sprays - or best avoided?
 
Cheers,
- Clive

Edited By Beagle on 08/10/2010 13:11:54

Thread: Info & advice on Myford Speed 10 please (& other small lathes)
13/09/2010 17:28:17
Engine Builder - ok, I'm mildly impressed with that!! ;o)
 
Tell me, do you have the stock 250W Brook-Crompton turning that lot over?
 
- Clive
12/09/2010 21:49:28
Joe - Thanks for the detailed info. I follow your description of the ML/Speed traverse gear arrangement, but I don't get why there's a tight spot once every revolution? Is this just a "coincidental" tight spot on the gear wheel / idler? If so, why not adjust the cam for the tight spot - or do we get backlash over the rest of the range then? I'm not being pedantic, just want to know what to look out for, and understand if it's fixable  
 
 
All -  Thanks for the opinons and input - very useful. You've certainly confirmed that I was looking on the right lines with my varioius machine options / brands. Having had a look at them all I think I'm going to stick with finding a nice little metric Speed 10 in a long bed version. That should suit my needs for now and is the best compromise for me in terms of cost / quality / size / capability (oh and me being biased to Colchester / Myford handwheel orientations!).
 
As a quick comment; a few of you have mentioned Emco. I popped down to the Emco / Wabeco importer in Stamford a few months ago, and I have to say I wasn't as impressed with the finish quality of the recent Emco machines as I had hoped. In fact the gentleman did have an older Emco in stock (which he wouldn't let go!), and to me it did look like the better finished machine. I'm not for a minute saying the new one performed worse, but it did look produced to a budget. Is this a fair observation on recent Emco machines, or am I off the mark here?
 
- Clive
 
09/09/2010 21:13:27
Guys, thanks for the replies.
 
Yep, given the space I'd probably head straight for a Bantam, but sadly I just don't have the room, so it's a small benchtop for me (for now anyway)! At a push I could squeeze something Super-7-esque in, as they are actually a bit smaller than I imagined, but I'd still prefer to go even smaller.
 
I've gotten a little confused watching the prices of ML10s / Speed 10s on ebay and other sites. Certainly the ML10s can be had for £500-700 in "reasonable" condition, with some accessories. The Speed 10s though (obviously) command a little more, but as I say, I've seen one as high as £1700 in "immaculate condition". Now if that's the money a good one is truly worth, then I might consider it, but the more I'm learning about these little Myfords, the more I get the impression one is paying for the name in addition to just getting a good lathe?? 
 
May I ask what other members on here have paid for ML10s / Speeds 10s, and what they think of them?
 
Thanks.
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