Member postings for J Hancock

If I had a choice, I would still take my chances with a few smuts every time, against more Chernobyl's,

Fukashima's ,Windscale's, 3 Mile Island's ,etc.

The problem with Nuclear Power stations is that, if you build one, it provides you with the essential ingredient to turn a fission bom into a fusion one.

Then you have a real problem.

Worth a 'Google search' of the ITER Project if anyone wants to know whats happening on the fusion front.

Be careful with confusing 'small' with easy to build.

A working, coal-fired ,O gauge Bat with full reversing gear, isn't.

A G1' Project' is a good confidence builder for a starter locomotive.

The way the bidding is going it will finish up as much as a new one in 1960 !

My bet is on reaching at least £127.

The G1MRA yahoo forum site is probably the best place to get feedback on Dee.

I'm afraid the inside split eccentrics ' did it' for me !

Just one piece of advice, if you are expecting to buy something big/heavy at the exhibition.

Bring one of those small four wheel 'buggies' in the boot of your car to collect the items.

Why?

Because it may be necessary to cross a main road to the car park and generally, parking is not so close as

at Harrogate.

Steady on people, original query did state 'cheaply' in the sentence.

Blasting 'steam' at a thermometer won't tell you a lot about the temperature of the steam down the pipe,

only how cool it is as it expands out of the pipe !

If a comparison is all you need , then perhaps you could try wrapping a tiny piece of low melting point metal

round the pipe and see which steam melts it ?

Not arguing that the technique works but more interested in why the use of a conventional foundation ring ?

There appears to be no more than a typical root weld used, which does not use the full depth of the f-r section to

hold the two (inner+outer ) plates together. As would be expected if using silver-solder.

Ah, Jubilee, I hope you have looked at the 'problem page' before making all the brake components !

I will leave others to explain the places where the use of brass is acceptable BUT , before you proceed too far making fittings that require tapping, please consider using stainless steel screws for all 'flanged' fittings.

Make sure you can match the tapped holes ( metric/BA) with the availability of stainless screws you intend to use.

Never tried it but I would think a 7/32" HSS die heated to cherry+ red complete with wedge protuding a little, gently squeezed in the vice, between some oak insulation, would open up enough without breaking ?

I suspect, that ' we' on this forum, are far more driven by 'sentimental' value and thus, 'Beyond Economic Repair'

does not compute.

You want to buy a book ?

Always try abe .

Perhaps a Zyto or Gamage look-a-likes of the 1940/55 era ?

Apologies if I have misunderstood this but it reads as though you are using an annealed copper washer (good)

squashed up by a nut against the bush in the boiler to effect a seal ?

Won't work.

Liquid threadseal is way to go.

Just a thought.

A strong wooden base, sitting on a big, thick 1", square of nylon with' largish shallow 1/8" 'depression' in the centre (floor side ) fed with a 100psi ? air supply.

Adjust air pressure to suit !

And not a wavy line in sight.

Better than I could do Ron.