Member postings for Ajohnw

I find the word jamming a bit odd. Can't say I have ever had it jam just noticed that the tool isn't cutting well any more. That's been with HSS and I suspect means I should have touched the blade up with a stone.

When I first started using raked tip inserts they were coated for stainless. I was surprised how quickly al rubbed the coating off. It might be best to try general purpose for parting off if nothing else is available.

I bought a tipped blade and holder just before my workshop packed up. The one from RDG. Myford qctp fitting with a power bulge to take 1" deep blades. The holder looks to be ok but the blade is a bit shoddily made. It has a bit of taper which goes the wrong way. I suspect it should be parallel. The tip is tiny and obscure too. No point buying a proper one until my workshop is up and running again.

I have snapped of a 1/16x1/2 HSS blade that needed to have about 2" sticking out. I put that down to me. To fast a hand feed as I was in a rush.

John

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The suds don't cool it all then. I thought that was why suds was regarded as a coolant.

John

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Too small really but shows slight signs of being a filter for noise suppression. Some times just done with 2 capacitors.

John

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A sure fired way to get more friction = more heat = melts the al and it sticks. That's the problem.

Also not keeping and even feed, more or less stopping which causes the tool to rub. So just like more speed = more heat.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 06/01/2017 23:35:36

Thanks Toby. I'm surprised that they don't all plug in. I thought that all consumer units were like this one under the cover.

**LINK**

They tried rather low current rcd's in factories early on and I thought some also found their way into houses. Fridges and all sorts tripped them.

John

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The OP said it's a dc motor David. Or universal. There may be capacitor in it but only for suppression.

If starting current is causing his problem the C curve might help.

It seems that garage CU's should only have on lighting and one power connection !

Vic If the electrician wont do it you could try pulling it out and fitting one yourself. It very probably will pull out just like wire fuse blocks do. We can change those ourselves - or at least replace the fuse.

John

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Do these fit any of the 25mm / 1" deep holders that are available Jason?

I can only see one polished insert on there for grooving / profiling - 6mm wide. The others are just uncoated

John

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Aluminium is very abrasive stuff so they produce various micropolished tips - the coating can't get rubbed of those. The coated tips start to deteriorate before the coating is completely worn off as well.

Ordinary turning tips are available micropolished. So far I haven't found any for parting off. Somebody some where may have them though. My usual source ( ATP ) has turning tips like this but none for parting off. Just general or stainless.

John

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You need to know what is tripping out. I think that the rcd is generally right next to the big on off switch. The others will be current trips.

A 1kw motor may take a lot of current when it starts ac or universal dc which is what you have.

There can be several reason for the rcd to trip especially on brushed motors. Effectively they are detecting a miss match between the current going to the motor compared with what's coming back.

The insulation in the motor may be past it's best.

It might be full of dust including dust from the brushes. Sometimes this can be cured by stripping it and cleaning it very thoroughly.

These types of motors sometimes have suppressor capacitors built in. They can cause this sort of problem. So replace both with new ones or remove them. I didn't mention removing them.

I believe your rcd should be a 30ma type. In the early days much much lower values were often fitted.They caused all sorts of problems with lots of things. They are pretty simple things really. Maybe they can go wrong. Probably will if tripped frequently. They usually plug into the consumer unit so can be changed. I think some consumer units use a combined master switch and rcd. Those are likely to plug in as one unit as well. So will the current trips. None of this sort of stuff is intended to do it's thing very often.

John

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Let the material and tip cool now and again which can also be done via a slower feed and speed variations.

Micropolished inserts are almost bound to help too.

John

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For engineering use KIng Henry's body parts will always make more sense to me. I sometimes feel like measuring the ratio of the width of my thumb to the length of my feet etc.

Plus dividing heads and some other things and areas show clearly that base 12 is much better than base 10.

What really drove metrication forwards was all in other areas mostly sciences of some sort. I wonder what ISO make of CGS and MKS ? Bet they reckon that CGS shouldn't be used but it's still bound to be.

Does 1ml or more correctly 1cc of water way 1gram like it should? No, so they should have changed it. Rationalising things like that is one of the main gains in some areas. The inch had to be adjusted to 25.4mm so why didn't they adjust water or the ml but then the cc wouldn't make sense so change the mm too.

Nuff said about the metre. It had other errors too.

If everybody changed to a rationalise system we could have had wonderful units like 1/1000 of horse and mega and kilo horses. A gallon could have become 10 pints just make the gallon bigger. That wouldn't change the size of a pint. A pound could be the weight of a pound of water. The US got that right. For us Brits it weighs 1 1/4 so just change the lb and have 100 ozs in it to upset ISO. Then change the inch to suit.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 06/01/2017 16:57:32

Euro works out a lot cheaper for what I need to do. Since looking initially I've found some 1/8 bsp ones.

The easiest way to see what they look like is to search euro 1/4bsp on ebay. I bought 2 of these because the coupler on the compressor is Euro. They fit it perfectly with a nice positive click. I believe that they are 14bar but there may be some variants that go higher. They turned out to be in a SIlverline package. This might be the listing. Talking to a supplier there is a good chance that any sold as Euro will fit together well.

**LINK**

PCL XF may be different. It seems that they may also do one that they call Euro. Might be they same thing or might not.

John

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Looks to me like Wolf have introduced their own. The main difference between the types you mention is the round bit on the end that goes into the coupler. Automotive ones are short and industrial are long. Those looks somewhere in between to me. I didn't keep a link but a web page shows the difference between those 2 types but from memory the person that put the page up carries 3 versions around with him to make sure they fit. He also mentions that universal couplers are becoming available that should work with all of the variants.

All I know is that at a branch I worked at that had a garage and used air tools they sometimes had problems with the things not fitting together properly or not lasting very long and leaking.

I intended to use PCL fittings but they are a bit long to have sticking out of the back of a welder and might get bent. I suspect people would be safe with those even if they aren't made by PCL. The other one that should be ok as it's a sort of standard goes by the name of Euro. A bit like the Wolf ones you've linked to. If you look on the screwfix site you'll see Euro and PCL also another that PCL has introduced. XF I think, may be the same as Euro. Toolstation do traditional PCL.

Don't blame me if it goes wrong but for the sort of big hole fitting you've linked to I'd choose Euro. In fact I am going to have a trawl those that style again to see if I can use them. I've sorted a list of type 21 mini connections out and run into the need for more adapters than I thought. I'll need adapters to use Euro. Might turn out to be less. The air tools I have turned out to use and odd adapter and npt threads. That doesn't help. In the UK BSP seems to rule and the German compressor I bought also uses BSP. Seems there are some metric pipe threads too but not much sign of them.

John

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The reason people use cms, a fact that iso just wont accept is that stating some thing like about 300mm is stupid.30cm makes more sense, if it is even a rougher guess about 3 of what ever 10 of those is would be ideal.

As it is iso wouldn't like us to say about 1/3 of a metre but I might.

The other fact that many forget is that the none English speaking european countries as far as I am aware often use cms and always have.

Then there a ccs and mls. Even more stupid really where they are often used it doesn't really matter.

Next time some one wants a pint ask for 568.261485ml instead. I'd probably not even remember the number before I had drunk one. No chance after 2 or 3. I often drink halves when I'm driving - even worse.

John

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The synergy doesn't apply to some parts of the world. This could be a good replacement for the one that broke.

**LINK**

There are some other similar options on ebay.com. The type I had that broke was often handed out as gifts by companies. Well made as gifts shouldn't upset people and obviously very cheap too.

John

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I keep a 2ft fabric tape from an Xmas cracker in my pocket. That is compact and has been of use many times. Metric on one side and imperial on the other.

I've tried several small tape measures and can't say as I like any of them. Fat Max 13mm wide tape seems a bit broad to me for a keyring. I did have a thin light metal cased 6ft one for a long time with a 1/4" wide tape. Eventually it gave up the ghost and wouldn't retract. I'v failed to find anything remotely like it.

We seem to have a synergy on the tape width probably down to global forces.

John

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Have you tried tightening the black star shaped knob sticking out of the apron ?

It needs to be screwed tighter until you get a reliable feed. It's a slip clutch so that the saddle can be run directly onto a bed stop. Something I regularly do. It needs to be set tight enough to take a cut. To check slacken it right off (unscrew) and see if the saddle feeds along. It probably wont. Try a bit more tension. It might move a bit and stop etc, You might be able to stop it with your hand when it's very lightly set. When you actually come to turning just tighten it up more until it feeds reliably.

The 3 position lever suggests that it has both feeds. Both disengaged in the middle and saddle feed when it's in the top position. Hope I have that right. I hardly ever touch mine and it's currently in the top position for saddle feed which is all I use. This is an ME10 but as far as I am aware all are the same when the feeds are fitted.

You can find the parts diagrams on the yahoo group - very useful if you actually do need to strip it down. I'd suspect it's just lack of use and a loose clutch setting.

Oh - don't try a bed stop when it's screw cutting - it would be a disaster.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 05/01/2017 18:49:04

The seller has removed the 8mm from the description in the listing on the air line so I have requested a return on the basis that it doesn't match it - them to pay return costs. I had another returns some months ago. An electric motor. The seller stated very clearly that returns were accepted. I thought I had a problem as it would cost over £10 for me to send it back. Turned out that ebay have sorted something out and the cost to the seller was about £2.

Anyway I've ordered a branded PCL air line. Couldn't get the one I ideally wanted so had to be 10mm bore so has 3/8 end fittings. 8mm is available with 1/4 ends. PU this time. It's got a swivel on one end. Just hope it doesn't leak with use.

John

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I think he saw it as mostly no need for the gap and easily changed bearings Russel. That style of bed is suitable for some one to do a light skim regrind on as well. Underside of the saddle too. Putting it all together probably a better option for a real refurb than either of the myford 7's mainly down to the bearings. The general geometry of the lathe may differ to them as well. That can change all sorts of things.

If anyone does start playing with pre load on dual taper roller bearing do take care. Really tiny adjustment of the nut make a difference. Go too far and the bearings will be wrecked pretty quickly. Mine took several adjustments to settle down. It pays to check for heat as well when the lathe is running at max speed. That can take well over 10 mins to reach it's max. I don't run my Boxford at max speed. I find there is no need. Somehow I doubt if it's possible to get one setting that is perfect for both but might give it a whirl at some point. I find the opposite to what some state at times - even super low cutting speeds get rid of problems.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 05/01/2017 11:45:51

LOL Yours is bigger than his. Mine is too.

I'd noticed that too Ian and thought it might take a little more than that if needed.

There is one aspect that has struck me on size. Usually when material is being bought it's priced on the basis of being sold in lengths cut to size. Last time I wanted some larger material I needed some al disks about 4" dia. by 1/2" thick. Several of them so I ordered them cut to size, 5/8 thick because a piece for the saw would have been more expensive due to the extra length needed. Since I have seen a Boxford part off material larger than that I might buy a length now.

There used to be people around here that sold bar ends at a little over scrap prices. Most stick it on a rack now and wait for some one to want that length. Sometimes material turns up at a good price. I also think that the supplier wasn't too happy about cutting my thin disks. One more expensive supplier wouldn't be bothered or shouldn't be.

Anyway. I have had mine for rather a long time and there wasn't much choice when I bought it. The small Femi would cope with the vast majority of what I have cut on it. A few times it wouldn't have and I'd hate to have to use a hacksaw. 4" square isn't that bad a limit though. I've made use of the 6" limit several times usually with thick plate sections rather than bar. A thread cropped up once on here from people complaining about the 6x4 1/2. I've no idea what the cheaper one is like. Some objected to the complaints. The other isn't an industrial machine but what I have found is that it's way better than expected.

John

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