Member postings for Ajohnw

My truly small pocket tape arrived this morning.

**LINK**

It does seem to be well made so in my view worth the price. The spring return is so fast it could probably be used as a weapon. It might even cut a finger.

Weight 35g and none iso as it's marked in mm and cm as most do with the 10's in red. Nice clear scale as well.

Thanks to brexit the price has now gone up by 24p since I bought it on the 5th. Pity I didn't find them last time I looked, well over 12 months ago.

I asked at a shop why I couldn't buy a quality really small tape. Guess it's down to price but while it's rather steep providing it lasts I don't mind that.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 17/01/2017 11:30:44

I tend to trust the suppliers what ever material it is. For instance if I want aluminium i just ask for that. If I need some specific characteristic I mention it. It doesn't take much imagination to guess what grade the term aluminium is likely to produce. Same with many materials.

The reason goes back a while. I might spend some time looking for a suitable spec and then have trouble finding it. The dealer usually stock materials on the basis of what they are likely to sell. Sometimes even hold stock for specific customers. So if I wanted some aluminium for con rods I might finish up with one of these 7000 series that has been mentioned. I might also ask what grade the stuff is on something like that. I might be told that there are 2 grades one being more expensive than the other and even be told the differences. I find they are generally helpful. I did get caught out once because I used a supplier that provided materials for the company I worked for and as a joke some one arranged for me to get something different to what I asked for. I've never gone back there again.

Maybe not good enough for a business but fine for some one like me.

John

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They are production items Michael so will be done in a fashion that causes least problems when they are being made. At the point where they feel that location for processing hasn't sufficient strength they will switch to pointy ends. The other aspect is probably auto loading into machines. Less initial positional accuracy needed.

I noticed and interesting tapping fixture recently for use in a lathe. I assume a hole had been drilled in the end so all that was needed at the tailstock was a pin to guide the tap. I'd estimate that the pin was about 1/8" dia so it could probably be used from something like 1/4 dia and up. At some point a larger diameter pin could be used. It might have been a manufactured item but I haven't seen anything else like that.

John

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London Tap & Die if Tracy can't get them. It's worth phoning and asking if Tracy doesn't show them on the web.

John

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I was just repeating what a man from BOC said. I know no more but assume that as he said it some do use it for that. He also added that it's usually used for TIG. I just queried that pureshield was pure argon for tig welding. The site can seem a bit confusing in that respect.

John

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You could ask on the chat line. At least that way you would find out prices etc also if there are any odd deals.

It looks like the chat line is the best way of dealing with them to me. I don't think it's in the far east.

John

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She's put down Y rental charges. More or less the same as your spreadsheet. No gas charges on the form. Cost was as you indicated for Y maybe a touch less.

If you want info I suggest the chat on the web site. It's quick. A W weighs 85kg - no thank you. I suspect one of the aspects of what they supply for diy is weight. Nobody is going to fancy nicking it. Perhaps that's why they wont supply x. No idea really. X providing I could get refills quickly would be fine for me really - unless it runs out part way through which nvg what ever bottle size,

Out of interest one chat person reckons argon can be used for mig on aluminium up to 2mm thick.

I will use the bottle tap. Also check the solenoid assuming it's normally off. Simple really. Pressurise it all and walk away for a while and then come back and check.

The bottle trolley should arrive soon well ahead of the need for it. Plenty of time to send it back if a load of crap. The sellers reckon all they sell is made in the EU so stands a chance of being worthwhile. I had a motorcycle stand rust out from the inside so I may squirt some thick oil into it if I can.

John

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I was a bit confused about docusign. The direct debit is optional but the signature aspect is needed to complete the form. It's a bit repetitive in some ways but not that bad. The main thing is that all red bits have to be filled in. As I stopped filling it in on Friday I has an email that explained this morning. I don't mind direct debit but wonder about setting them up on the web. The alternate is bacs. They still want bank details later.

At one point they ask when bottles can be delivered. Oh no I thought so put 23-58 to 23-59 and then later it asks if their trucks which they say are about the size of a dustbin lorry can access the premisses. I put no. Then comes special delivery instructions so I put collect only.

Me thinking oh no might have caused me to think that this was in red too - pretty sure this was but ......

When it finally gets to the end of filling things in, there are a number of nexts and a couple of radio buttons to press that's the time to press finish. The lot then comes back via email along with an option to review.

So I have signed that I am hiring a W bottle from 17th Jan. The lady says that she will sort this out after the forms are filled in and I can then have a bottle when ever I want it. Likely to be a month away at least.

John

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Somebody mentioned the sip helmet from toolstation. When I tried mine for sparks I used another that wouldn't fit sensibly. The meteor 2300 from toolstation does have a nice big viewing area at a pretty low cost for that. The shade range and shade settings are inside the helmet. I don't see that as a problem, It also has photocells.

John

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Hopefully gives a better view of the mess that's being made.

That video I linked to isn't bad intro even though it's a bit long. I can't use a torch like that man can though. I much prefer welding towards me when I can. I think it's a more natural movement - for me anyway.

Not sure I would always use gaps so perfectly as he has but there are many ways of skinning a cat. In some cases welding on both sides for instance.

TIG for me is mostly about fusing metal without a filler rod. Longer term being able to make small light welds more easily and no chipping.

Trouble is it also came with a cutter. More expense.

John

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I got one Neil. Pure luxury. I did manage with a hand held face mask. You get a nicely sunburned left hand fingers - on the backs anyway.

Bet some one mentions gloves. They probably should.

John

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The reason they mention a contactor is that some inverters take way more current than switches can easily handle. If you fit one it would usually finish up wired to be used in an NVR fashion. You might just use an NVR switch to do it on something that can run off a 13amp plug. There shouldn't be any need though as the inverter will behave like an NVR switch. Remove the volts say due to a mains failure and when it comes back the inverter wont switch the motor back on. Or shouldn't.

There is a bit of a catch though. When powered up inverters take a big gulp of current which isn't good for contacts in switches. Best to use one that is over rated for the job.

There can be a need to isolate the inverter so some sort of switch should be fitted. An oridnary NVR could be used but isn't ideal for fault conditions that shouldn't happen which could cause the on contacts to weld. You could use a panic stop button - they are used because the button actually forces the contacts apart. A better option which does the same thing is a rotary on of switch. It's obviously on or off. A panic button could also be added after that for panics and nothing else.

One option as they can be bought all in one box might be an nvr switch and a panic button.

It's all an area where people tend to do what they do rather than follow a set of rules. If the machine is owned by a business things get a bit different,

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 15/01/2017 23:14:01

That's what I thought about them Mark. Just like the rest they need some skill in current setting and movement speed. I talked to some one who can really use them and pointed this out and he agreed also adding that in some areas that doesn't really matter. I'd just watched some one else cut out a dent and weld in a patch on a van. For that sort of thing it probably doesn't matter that much. With stick on thicker material I think it's easier to tell that there really is penetration. Say 1/8" and up.

A gasless mig might suite the OP though, No need to worry about working outside. I'm not convince he would find it any easier than stick.

John

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There is a bit of info on various types of sticks here

**LINK**

Also a bit of course. Notice how the stick is being moved, One thing I would try with unknown electrodes is reversing the polarity.

There are all sort of catches with electric welding. I'm keen on high striking voltages probably down to using ancient transformer ones that were hard to start due to this. One advantage though is that they weren't far off the correct distance to actually weld. Go much higher and they may well not be.

When I tried out the 3in1 I have bought. I was a touch disappointed with the striking voltage n MMA. On the other hand it's the first time I have used the welder and the sticks on DC. I've had the sticks for years. They were fine on the welder I used to use. - Mmm note I keep them in a warm place. I did get more spatter than I expected. Maybe the current markings on my old welder were higher than they really wear. Maybe the stick was too far off.

I also wasted a tungsten electrode on tig without gas just to make sure sparks came out. It struck very easily. The manual mentions listening for HF discharges on tig. They stop the instant the arc starts. If I remember correctly argon would increase the arcing distance - would it be the right distance for welding?

Another way of starting tig is lift start. Sometimes in MMA welders that don't come with tig but can be used for it. These start the arc when the electrode is lifted by a couple of mm. One I noticed reckons 2 to 4mm. Again it might not be the right height to weld and if the current was too high it might punch a hole through what ever is being welded. That can happen on stick as well unless the weld is started pretty quickly.

In my view it doesn't matter much which type some one starts with. Distance and current come into it.

I had a nose about to see if there is a decent viideo. This one is dated and probably uses a much older clark welder than yours.

If your getting lots of spatter it looks to suggest the right things to me. I'm not sure that hard starting at lower currents applies any more with inverter welders but when welding less energy will go in so things will have to progress more slowly. Sometimes I think in terms of the electrode being in the pool. It probably isn't. When I've had the inner get a lot shorter than the fluxed outer I think it's down to having it too far away usually towards the end of a long weld so the flux isn't melting as well. As I mentioned it usually happens on thin stuff were there can't be much penetration - plating a rusty car floor with 048 etc. Thicker stuff in some respects is a lot easier probably because I could up the current and get a better striking voltage.

John

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I've found a build fault in it.

Not to clear in the photo but the black shroud at the side if the fan has pretty big crack in it. Epoxy needed.

I took the cover off to see if I could remove the gas connection on the back and replace it with the male half of a euro coupler. Not much chance of unscrewing it. Then reached for the saw as there is plenty of bsp sticking out. Tried to fill the hole with something so no bits would get into the valve and had a surprise. Interesting attention to detail. It goes in a little way at the size expected and then reduces - less likely to snap off or bend etc.

I've been curious about the ground connection on the chassis - the silverish nuts bottom at the back. They mention must be grounded. I looked in a manual for another welder that has the same connection. Seems it's optional but can be used to ground a metal bench to reduce emissions. I don't usually weld with the ground clip on the bench so might not be needed. In fact I don't think I ever would.

The pipe couplings used on the gas valve are unusual. To me anyway. They look like the type where the nut goes on the pipe, pipe pushed on and then nut done up. Looks like these are tightened up by screwing the nut the other way. There is also a bulge in the pipe tail that's some way down the plastic tube.

John

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It might be worth pointing out that there are stick welders and there are stick welders. One part answer is to look at the feedback scores on Amazon. I thought that there would be a clear winner. There is. This one.

**LINK**

I can also be used for TIG. I'm inclined to think stinking fish when I hear talk about scratch start. Visions of having to scratch the electrode over the work to get an arc to start. I'd be more inclined to think it relates to open circuit voltage etc. This unit has lots.

I'd wonder about arc forcing on it but it might get round a problem I sometimes had when running long welds on very thin stuff. The inner metal in the electrode would finish up well into the outer flux and no way would it restrike if I stopped. Break the end of and it was hard to avoid sticking. It might also make this worse but 80v to get it up and running again should be more than adequate.

Personally I don't think there is an electric welding method that doesn't have it's difficulties. Gas is much more forgiving in some ways.

John

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What are Huanyang inverters like on the range they will cover Mark. In other words min power on an inverter of a given rating?

I went for Mitsubishi as I have had it for a long time and it was early days for chinese inverters. People seemed to be happy with the cheapest they could lay their hands on not long after a changed my lathe over.

Also thought they would produce a decent manual. Worth while for if there are problems. Mine wasn't expensive. It was slightly used. Not an uncommon problem. Motor not up to what turned out to be needed so both changed. I took care of that by doubling it on my M10. x2 as they fitted lower power motor to the ME's. I didn't 'alf have some problems getting it to fit.

John

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I've never used gasless mig. Maybe some one else has ? The OP does say that they need to work outside. Maybe that's ok? Also mentions a £300 budget.

It could be worth him mentioning what stick welder he actually has. There have been some decent transformer units on the market in the past but tend to be rather massive to get the right sort of volts amps characteristics. There seems to be some variation in inverter ones too.

John

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I followed Neil on current draw. I thought 120amps was probably tops for a 3 pin plug. It is 120amp and the plate states 17amp peak 13amps effective. It also states something else that could be worth looking at on all welders. Duty cycle. I've seen some commercial stuff that isn't that cheap that state 30%. The 3in1 gives 2 ratings. One of them is 100% up to 93amps. It's 60% above that. Only time will tell if these figures are correct.

My general impression of tig from looking around is that it's partly aimed at thinner materials. Seems to be it's forte. Getting used to using a filler rod probably wont be easy for many people.

I sometime wonder if people get hung up on current. Maybe from days of old. With an inverter it should give pretty similar usage at any current it's set at. That wasn't the case with many of the old smaller transformer units. My old transformer stick welder didn't like striking and arc at low settings - bit of a pain as I mostly used it on car body work. That out of interest was easily capable of melting cable in a reel and causing it all to stick well together even at moderate settings. I didn't bother to pull all of the cable out of the reel - once.

John

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I though that too Neil but little points can improve numbers like those and the man might be used to better. Nearly if not all dovetail beds have short saddles so good adjustments in that area are more or less essential. Thing give as well and 0.0025mm isn't much at all.

Actually if the one I had wasn't a pigs ear I would probably still have it. I'm glad they have started making them a lot better than they were initially.

Super 7 ? - might be out of the frying pan into the fire.

John

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