Member postings for Ajohnw

Thanks. It's nice to see another useful reply. Others may have the same problem. There isn't much on the forum on tig really that's why I posted rather than just getting on with it.

There is another thread on the 312 3in1. It seemed to work ok then too.

John

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I think the problem with using steel comes when people go for a tight/very close fit and the finish probably matters as well Rod. The finish is likely to be very good on bought back plate. Correct flank angles too. The register fit on a collet holder I bought was in my view too loose but the main problem was that it wasn't concentric with the business end.

Personally I believe that the register fit determines the repeatability. It will but as some also say the thread will tend to centre what ever it is. I think that's true - to some extent.

John

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There will be a flow gauge used with it. That's what the regulator I have bought is intended for. Preset for agron and it's matching flow regulator 0 - 14 l/pm. If that doesn't work oh well have to get another. I'd expect to have to tweak the flow regulator now and again but not often enough to be a problem. Depends how good the regulator is. That does vary. I wont go into how I know that.

The reason for the adapter is explained in the 3in1 post. As the person who suggested it mentions it allows both styles of bottle to be used. The flow regulator needs to be vertical.

Anyway I usually ignore trolls. In fact on some forums a moderator kicks them off completely.

Thanks for the 2 useful replies. ESAB isn't out of the question price wise and looks to have an additional adjustment which is likely to be useful. I'll see how I get on with the SIP too. I did use a lift up mask for a while years ago and that wasn't a problem. The first one I bought fitted. I preferred a hand held mask for stick though.

Whoops yes I may finish up modifying one.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 22/12/2016 09:45:31

LOL I have an XL that fits pretty well.Pulled down too far an I'd probably get a headache. They vary according to make. Any time I go near one that might fit I try it on. If the shop I had the xl from had an xxl it might have been too big. XL, XXL and XXXL tea shirts are much the same. Some fit well and I can't breath in some others. Mind you I haven't ever found an XXXL that wasn't too big. Staiting 44" chest doesn't always work out either.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 22/12/2016 00:15:18

I think it's best to get both right. Some reckon the register does it all. Some the thread. If the thread is too small and the register is nice and tight the back plate will hit the register rather than slide nicely onto it. Ok a chamfer helps but how big does that have to be.

The other aspect is that I have two 3 jaws. If for some reason I want to do something else while work is in one of the chucks I can take it off and use the other one. The person I bought the lathe of set that up. It has been handy a few times. The chuck I usually use has an extremely light interference fit on the register. I'll hope to achieve the same when I do one for the collet chuck.

John

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Sort of thing I expect from JS. Stolen from some one else who's advice I did take actually. The bottle adapter arrived today. I may need the right angle outlet. The 3 in 1 thread is well read and to be honest I wouldn't expect anyone to understand my gas needs or appreciate my attitude to BOC, I've had contact with them before through work. If BOC looks to suite it may well be from them. I fail to understand people who can't accept that I will phone them.

Anyway enough of that.

I suspect the helmet size problem is the way they are adjusted. Not much scope in the space available. One way too expensive make offers a sort of elasticated band add on to get round the problem. Seems to be USA only anyway.

One way might be to get one from amazon. By the time I have sent a dozen back they might get some larger ones in. I can go and try the SIP one on especially if the nice lady is on the counter. We have a bit of a laugh. If it's some one else I may have to take it back if it doesn't fit. Taking a measurement I need one that will reach something like a 27" 69cm circumference. Smaller might not work out. Not that unusual a size actually. I had no problem at all finding motor cycle helmet. Hats for walking when it's raining are much harder to find.

John

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Anyone know of a lower price one that has a decent size of head band ?

LOL I think I have an XXL head size as hats generally wont fit. XL may

The one I have just sits on top of head and the strap that should be across the top may as well not be there. I suspect this is an extreme example. It might fit my wife.

I've noticed the SIP ones. Right sort of price and a reasonable viewing window size. I have no idea of what size head bands they have. If I had bought one of these locally however I could have taken it back.

Then there is 3M - way way too expensive. Some other makes too.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 21/12/2016 20:17:54

Foil can be a lot better for various reasons but a lot could depend on who made them. Wima make decent polyester capacitors. I think I might be inclined to try one of those with a suitable rating. They did do other types too and various ranges.

It's been a very long time since I worked on ev's where controlling and even adding spikes was often important but I vaguely recollect that wima quoted volts per sec ratings or something that gave an indication of esr and inductance. If so the higher the better.

One rather large capacitor that would probably blow a 1/4" steel shafted screw driver to bits if it was used to discharge it had to be foil.

John

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Sounds like the had a back plate that was made fairly well. When making them it can be difficult to get the thread exactly right so some signs of the thread peaks may be visible in the register. All it needs is the flank angles to be out a bit. The thread may then need cutting too deep to allow a dummy nose to go in. This can also be caused by the flank angles on the dummy nose being out.

Actually if he had measured the sizes of the spindle he would realise just how precise things need to be. Spindle nose register 1.500 dia, thread 1.498 dia.

My boxford came with everything I need except a collet chuck. Now I have one I will need to make a back plate for it. I think I already have a suitable casting also a dummy spindle nose but when I come to measure that I may decide to make another. I have a chaser for cutting the internal thread.

My view on registers and threads in these things is that both matter one way or the other. A thread that is close enough to allow the chuck register to engage smoothly is ok but that also means that the thread needs to be pretty accurate if the register is to have a decent fit.

John

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Steel back plates tend to pick up and bind. Cast iron doesn't. I've toyed with the idea if making a composite one. Might one day but so far no need.

I have heard of several people cleaning up boxford back plate threads. Even when close to size some couldn't do it. One said they did eventually. I'd guess a very hefty bench well fastened to to floor. These were rdg taps - usual tolerance. They leave a thread that is somewhat larger than a manufacture such as Boxford and Myford would use on their back plates. It ideally needs a tap that is on size. The spindle nose will be a couple of thou under size or should be. Personally I think that an internal chaser is a better option. I've cut several using a hand chaser in the tool post. Set carefully and run right through. Fed in at 1/2 the flank angle - slightly off to cut a little on one side.

Before making one a dummy spindle nose is a good idea. It needs a very good finish on the register part and a well cut thread. On the thread it's best to do some sums to account for the use of a pointed tool. It's just about possible to use a couple of teeth on a chaser on a Boxford as the thread od is notionally the same size as the register. Might be possible to do the same on a myford if the run off area can be big enough. The dummy nose can be tried in a known perfect back plate etc. The register part can have a short length say 0.010" under size. That way tiny cuts can be used to finish to size. Say 1/2 thou - fit has to be to 0.001 then but watch out for boring bar spring.No problem using 1/4 thou etc cuts either. Just takes longer. If you set up to do several remember the dial settings but still check.

I had wondered about using one of the morse taper plus spindle noses that can be bought for use on rotary tables etc. Having one for mounting a face plate in the tailstock afraid I wouldn't be happy about it's accuracy. They are too loose in my view. On a myford you may be able to get a used spindle cheaply. That's what I did on my ML7. It needed a new spindle anyway so came for free - after a fashion. I've still got it for my dore westbury and diviiding head for if I need it.

I've seen complaints about pre machined back plates. Both too loose and later too tight.

On the chuck register I don't think a tiny touch of taper is a problem. Tends to give a press fit if the sizes are correct. I have been known to mess that part up on my Raglan - not enough care measuring so took too much off. Ideally it needs to be a press fit.

John

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I did notice the spec Nigel. It's pretty disgusting really but they do quote a flow rate. Many don't and the figures a lot give are meaningless in practice. I've been down into this area before. It leaves me wondering why some one doesn't make a cheap belt drive one. What they do instead is run it at 2,800 rpm which makes the things inefficient. I have wondered if it's possible to buy a likely candidate and convert one. Scheppach provide good info on compressors as they all should really. These could give people an idea of what to expect from others but other aspects can change the efficiency. There tends to be a jump to 100l / min at 4 bar. Few will reach it. None at the really cheap end as far as I can see.

I wouldn't advice any one else to risk it but feel it's worth a go. I am prepared to take a hit as they do have a good spares outlet. It's 10 bar. I need less than 4 - I hope. That should help somewhat but maybe not enough. The other aspect is how long am I likely to take during a cut. Might need to walk round the garden between cuts.

It's a facility that comes as an extra really. I only wanted stick and tig. I suspect

They do guarantee the tank for 10 years. Pity about the motor. As it is Gernan I will really wonder if it will actually provide the flow rate. However in other areas they do seem to be a decent company. It will however be the first product I will be buying off them.

On bottles a Y looks the best option for my use. Not because of a lot of use but so that it doesn't need refilling often. Another option might be a Genie bottle from BOC. Sort of in between. I have ordered a 300bar regulator. I believe that fits in with certain other BOC bottles. Hence phone calls to discuss costs etc. I really wont like paying a collection charge though.

John

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I'm tempted to say get knotted. Do you really think that I don't know that tig needs a shielding gas? Did you notice that I did it without because I wanted to make sure sparks came out of it in tig mode and that gas wont be available for a while? Did you notice how many time I mentioned pure argon. I also want a decent regulator and flow meter before I even try using argon.That still hasn't arrived.

Like I said I will phone BOC when I am ready. Advice on the machine itself is pretty pointless really as I had decided to buy it and try it. Actually the machine is looking pretty promising. Given leak problems some have mentioned on cheap chinese units the answer is simple - fix or send back. No sparks would also cause me to send it back so I have checked that sparks do come out of it.

In short if you want to be rude get your facts right.

John

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Should add that I put 50amps through a 1/16 electrode. Suspect that is way too much ?

Also I probably have a stick welder user problem. I usually use the rod at an angle. As I burnt away one side of the ceramic I'd guess tig needs using square on.

Cutting will have to wait. I wont try that without something to hold the torch the correct distance from the work. Also a compressor will be needed. I've decided to trust the Einhell spec. Worrying as experience suggests that I shouldn't do that with German products. Some air fittings will be needed as well. The arrangement it comes with isn't too good really. It would work but be somewhat inconvenient if things need to be unplugged. The Einhell comes with a euro bayonet but it's easy to make an adapter to convert to pcl. I can buy odd pcl bits from down the road but they don't sell much in the line of fittings with tail ends. The ones that come with the unit are 1/4" bsp.

The prices for bent bits of wire to hold the cutting torch off seem to be excessive.

John

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Hope my last post didn't sound to terse Murray. Suppose I often do. This horse drinks from where it likes to. I just examine the options, Anyway.

I just tried tig with no gas. Not good for the ceramics on the end. Glowing red hot and I haven't look to see what has happened to the electrode and collet.

It was interesting. The unit makes a higher pitch buzz until the arc starts making that aspect easy. As the "manual" mentions it stops as soon as the arc starts. Think it deserves a better torch that takes standard parts. There is no collet holder as such which probably interferes with heat transfer and other things.

I burnt away the end of the ceramic and the electrode.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 21/12/2016 11:04:25

A horizontal band saw is probably the most flexible option. It doesn't care what the size of the metal is providing it fits within it's capacity. Having said that though I have turned bar and things like that over to exceed the usual 4" depth. Many of them can also be used vertically by adding a small metal table.

Buy one of these and you will put a lot of your cutting needs to bed in one go. There is a thread some where on here where some on complained about how poor the cheap chinese ones are. Replies metioned what usually needs to be done - blade tracking adjustment and the fact that the blade needs to be rather tight. They use a spring to provide the downward cutting force. That may need adjusting on larger bars at the beginning and the latter parts of the cut. It may not cut dead square but will get close enough for quick use of a file on things like angle iron.

Frankly I wouldn't be without mine and many owners feel the same. They will also cut timber ideally with a coarser blade.

Chop saws are sometimes used now. Noisy and I have no experience of them. I'd be surprised if a cheap one is as capable as the above.

Bandsaws that can stand up to metal cutting long term tend to be rather expensive. Lots of cheap ones use cheap flimsy die cast supports for the blade guides etc. I bought a dewalt eventually. That was just cutting timber. The metal cutting thickness is severely limited.

Personally I would avoid very cheap angle grinders. Following the death of my mother I needed to chop up a stair lift into 3 sections to get it into a van. I bought a cheapy as I didn't have mine with me. I suppose it was running and cutting for maybe 15mins. On the last cut it burnt out, fortunately when it was more or less through. Another tool I wouldn't be without. Buy a decent one if you go this way. The can also be fitted with grinding wheels that are used face on - not on the edge. Also scratch brushes.

The other option is a reciprocating saw. At our level that is often a home made one. The best design I have seen is by Myfordboy on youtube. You could cut up the sections needed with an angle grinder. He also uses a circular saw on plate etc. It's one specifically intended for cutting metal. That could be rigged up as a table saw pretty easily.

As I see it the options that don't make much noise and are very safe and easy to use are the horizontal bandsaw or the reciprocating one. I don't like noise either. Sparks - well make sure they are flying away from you and use the guard.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 21/12/2016 10:18:03

I'm glad I but my lead to the garage in a long time ago Toby but in my case my machines are run in the house and are ok on a ring main. The link to the garage is far more capable than what I use in there.

I've worked in development for my whole life. Odd unusual jobs crop up at times and muggins usually gets them. The electrics part stemmed for a control panel that carried very high currents. I needed to talk to some one about copper current carrying capabilities bus bar style. The person that ran the works engineering side of things was a fellow of the IEE. I walked into a lab where some gear had been installed by the site electricians. It was a bit unbelievable. Put my hand on some conduit and it wasn't just warm but hot. The conduit just wasn't big enough to carry the cable the gear needed. Following that I had a lot more involvement in this sort of thing when needed and was allowed to connect the supply up.He was able to authorise that and was impressed by my wiring capabilities on other things that I had done. A side line of my job has often involved electronics and similar problems crop up.

If people want to know what's what in this area I would suggest they buy an Electrician's Guide To The Building Regulations. One of it's aims is to clear up the confusion for people who actually work on the job. It was an IEE publication. It's now the IET. There is some jargon but it is pretty understandable. It covers both the building regs and the electrical requirements. Really it's the fellows of what is now the IET who probably set the wiring and etc parts. The current regs in that line were being passed around a long time ago now and haven't changed that much really. Both of the houses I did would need very little further work. I did know that bonding was coming but didn't add it. I checked these out by unplugging everything, taking the light bulbs out and using a full blown megger on all of the leads to ground at the consumer unit.

I'm not suggesting that people buy this book and go diy but it does give a much better idea of reality than the web does. However if I wanted something done in this line I would be very likely to get one just to see what is possible and what the complications are likely to be.

John

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As mentioned - if on this scheme they charge for collect I doubt if I will have any dealings with them on principle but that's me. I wont be buying a bottle a week by any means. I will probably do what I did with propane. Choose a size that is well above my needs so that there is very likely to be some there if I need it. Also a size that I can move around easily.

The propane bottle is some what over 3ft tall. It doesn't get refilled very often. I was tempted to go for the next size up but have found that I don't need it. Argon will be much the same. My main reason for buying the welder is a dog cage - one dog cage. I have a wide range of tooling of all sorts for similar reasons. I would have to pay some one else to do the work without them. In this case that charge would not cover the welder cost but will pay for more than 1/2 of it. After that it's there to use. There is also a fun aspect. Good value for money really.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 20/12/2016 17:14:18

I will phone them Murray. I've too much on at the moment and don't expect to sort gasses out until past Xmas. Sorting odd bits and pieces has already taken me away from the kitchen work too often really.

I may have found a compressor for cutting. They claim 105 l/min at 4 bar. Stand on end type by Einhell. The motor rating sounds rather hobby but that's what I am. A rather high output for an oilless of this style.

John

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At one time it didn't need to be armoured. Just a catenary wire was fine. Given a typical garage height that aspect wasn't a problem either. I'm thinking of a sloped roof prefabricated garages.

I'd be surprised if the cable didn't need to be armoured now, resistant to UV and temperature etc.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 20/12/2016 15:54:20

Interesting Toby. I rewired two houses many years ago and did some work in factories and never noticed that.

It did strike me that the earth wire is more than man enough to blow a 13amp fuse. That probably would prevent me from taking it apart.

Anyway it's an interesting piece of kit and so far looks promising. No guarantees given or implied.

Next thing is do I try tig for sparks without any gas? The power feed looks to be the same as stick but that is via some sort of inductor that may well be air cored and may have some sort of feedback. I didn't look that closely but it could be a form of current transformer.

John

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