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Member postings for Bogstandard

Here is a list of all the postings Bogstandard has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Myford alternative
31/07/2010 23:34:51
Ian,
 
I am not trying to push far eastern stuff at all. Boxford, Harrison, Colchester etc can all be purchased a lot cheaper than the Myford, and they are much better specced.
 
My gripe is that why has the Myford got such a following ?
 
For some people it is the holy grail, and they seem to spend their life trying to attain the ownership of one. Why?
 
Maybe it is the 'boast factor', or they have money to waste, as they certainly won't machine any better than my lathe costing maybe a third of the price of the Myford.
 
They are certainly no better wearing than other machines, as I have seen some right ragbag examples, which to put right, would cost as much as a couple of brand new, better specced far eastern units.
 
It was good in it's day, when people didn't own a milling machine, and all sorts of gizmos were thought up to get around that problem. But in this day and age, where a mill is almost a required posession in the modern workshop, that sort of thing is no longer required. It works out a lot cheaper to buy a basic mill than to upgrade a lathe in time, effort and cost to do the same or even a lesser job.
How many vertical slides are sitting under benches gathering dust?
 
Bogs
31/07/2010 11:15:52
Mark,
 
You wil now find out the Myford shortcomings for yourself, despite the warnings from a lot of other people.
 
It is overhyped, overpriced and underspecced.
 
A basic design from the middle of the last century, cobbled together in an attempt to bring it up to date, and failing miserably. It should have been allowed to die gracefully years ago, but a gang of loyal followers seem to think it should be dug up and ressurected.
 
 
Bogs

Edited By Bogstandard on 31/07/2010 11:17:29

Thread: Welding Courses
31/07/2010 08:33:30
Neil,
 
I did a gas and arc evening course many years ago at Shrewsbury technical college, two evenings a week for two years. One evening in the classroom and then one in the shop.
 
It was more like a mini apprenticeship, taking you thru both classroom theory and shop practical. The classroom included maths, technical drawing, basic metallurgy etc. not just welding theory. So a fair standard of education is required otherwise you could easily become 'lost'.
 
It took me from being a no hope metal joiner to a very capable gas and arc welder, and I came away with some good recognised qualifications (then),  I could easily join two bits of metal together from shim thickness up to 10mm thick using gas and almost unlimited thickness using arc, from all positions, including overhead.
 
They did do rough and ready courses lasting about four to six months, aimed mainly at the home welder, aimed more at the practical side, say to build a kit car, or something of that ilk, but because mine was paid for by the government, I took as much as I could get.
 
 IMHO, the long course got me to a stage where I could go into industry and be very capable, I can't comment on the shorter courses.
 
To me, £400 doesn't seem steep at all if it leads to a good, and hopefully recognised standard. But as with all nightclass courses, you have to be dedicated and put the hours in, otherwise it is a waste of everyones time and money.
 
It will be of no use if he only goes occasionally, as the courses are usually very structured, and missing just a few nights can put you so far behind that it isn't worth carrying on. We lost half our class by the end of the first year, and the college just won't give refunds.
 
Your best bet would be to obtain the course prospectus. That should include everything, from what is required of the student to what the final goal of the course is.
 
 
Bogs

Edited By Bogstandard on 31/07/2010 08:38:08

Thread: Real Way lube problems?
30/07/2010 08:06:31
Paul,
 
I think you are looking at it from the wrong perspective.
 
I do hope you are not turning into a machine polisher rather than a user.
 
Lubrication is there to slow down the wear rate, not to alleviate it altogether. If you can come up with a lubricant that gets rid of wear completely, I will definitely buy shares in it.
 
It is like car engines, forty years ago, with the tolerances and lubrication they had in those days, 30K  to 40K miles was about time for a rebore, now with modern lubricants and materials, that has been extended to at least once around the clock, maybe twice.
 
You will not stop wear on your machine, but by using the latest lubrication formulas, designed to reduce friction on bedways etc., you will extend it's useful life.
 
You mention way oil on leadscrews, and the problems caused by it.
If way oil was to be used on leadscrews, it would be called way and leadscrew oil.
 
Leadscrews  require a lighter oil, and I personally use a 32 grade hydraulic oil for general (non way)  lubrication of my machine and for use in my gearboxes. I use a 68 grade way oil on my machine ways.
 
That is what is recommended for my lathe, so I use it. 
 
 
Bogs
Thread: ML4 Phospor Bronze Bearings
29/07/2010 06:17:31
When I restored my old ML lathe, I made my own phos bronze bearings to match the spindle after it had been ground down to take the wear out of it  (only about 0.002"), but it was enough to make a ready made bearing a sloppy fit.
 
To put that much strain and deformation on the castings to take that play out would have maybe caused serious damage to the castings.
 
I would suggest you mic everything up, and make the bearings yourself, it is only a fine boring and turning job.
 
Bogs
Thread: Ignition coils for small engines
26/07/2010 21:37:10
Neil,
 
Somewhere on each page of Jan's site you will see an 'English' button.
 
Clicking that will allow you to read all.
 
 
Bogs
Thread: New lathe advice
26/07/2010 06:41:09
Mark,
 
Even though I own a largish far eastern gap bed lathe, and it is great, in a situation like yours, as you have already said, English iron looks to be your preference.
I would stick with that, as what most people don't realise, as soon as you take the gap out of these far eastern machines, they won't guarantee that it will go back in in the same position, and some even state that the warranty will be void if you remove the gap slug.
 
I can't help with the other stuff, I was just trying to give a bit of feedback, if ever you needed to look at far eastern machines.
 
Bogs
Thread: Building mini machines
24/07/2010 09:09:53
Jason,
 
I ordered the same thing, but made sure it was under the £18 duty limit (postage doesn't count), and they took about 14 days to get here, even though it was only a tiny package.
 
If you go above that £18 limit, then UPS automatically pay the duty for you (how kind) and charge you around £11 for the privilege, plus the customs charge, and won't deliver until you have paid the excess. The post office do the same thing, but only have a surcharge of £8. You are always better off, if you can, using USPS, then you have a chance of, if it is not too far over the customs limit, getting away with it.
 
John
Thread: Ignition coils for small engines
24/07/2010 03:54:45
Jan Ridders has had great success by the use of piezo units out of gas lighters, no coil, points, electronics etc, just a direct connection to the plug, fired direct from the piezo unit operated by a cam.
 
I don't know how durable they are, but some of his engines run great using them.
 
 
 
Bogs

Thread: Finding Centre Height
22/07/2010 13:25:33
Because of the types of cutting tools on the market today, especially tipped boring bars, which usually have a negative top rake, the height gauge is now no longer accurate enough for those types of tools.
 
Like Ian above, 'splitting the line' setting can easily get you to within 0.002" or even closer.
 
Here is a post I did about the issue. I used the facing off method to get my final centre height, but Ian's method is again very acceptable. Once you have made your setting piece, that is it, no more messing about.
 
 
You could use a piece of tube squared off at the ends for your setting gauge.
 
 
Bogs
 
 
Thread: Cutting a Groove - help needed
13/07/2010 17:11:32
Will this post help you with what you are trying to do?
 
 
 
Bogs
Thread: Need for recomandations on cut off or parting tool
11/07/2010 04:51:31
Ralph,
 
You don't mention how large a diameter you will be wanting to part off.
 
The larger the diameter, the more rigidity will be required.
 
So no matter how good the parting tool, if your lathe isn't or can't be made rigid enough, no matter what the latest fad in tooling is, you won't be able to part off large diameters.
 
I started to do a write up on a good friends site, but unfortunately ill health has meant I can't get into the shop to finish it off, but I will do soon (hopefully). But it does show a few things that are available, especially the industrial very expensive types, which if you are willing to wait and haggle for, can be picked up reasonably cheaply.
 
 
 
 
 If you have got this far, I hope that this has shown you that there is no such thing as one tool does all, in fact very few tools even come close to it.
Once you start to go over the 1" diameter scenario, things can and do start to get complicated.
 
Bogs
 
Thread: Ignition coils for small engines
10/07/2010 19:31:15
With reference to the above post and Minimag.
 
Julian, the new owner, is resurrecting what Jim Shelley had to give up a few years ago due to ill health. That is the Minimag magneto. 
 
He has now running a prototype low speed magneto for running on hit and miss engines, which, when finished/ will solve most of the coil/battery problems.
 
He is beginning to give out info and taking Q&A in this post.
 
 
Bogs
Thread: er collets
05/07/2010 00:26:10
John,
 
The Arc Euro collets that Jason has shown you fit the collet sets sold by Chester UK.
 
The first sets shown on this page,
 
 
If you have any missing, maybe a call to Chester UK will help
 
Bogs
Thread: flycutters
29/06/2010 17:07:47
Terry,
 
Glad you like the Fastone program. I use it when I am doing a long build posts as it remembers all my settings and renaming profiles, even after I have turned them off and back on again while doing the odd picture.
 
It might have got away from the original post a little, but it if did someone a bit of good, why not?  It cost me nothing to help.
 
In fact it keeps me occupied, as for the last year or so, I haven't been able to do anything meaningful in my shop (hopefully that will be  improving soon), and I find that by replying to posts, it keeps me in touch with what is going on.
 
 
Gordon,
 
I Google all the time if I can't find something, but sifting through all the hits mean you can soon lose the plot.
I ask people if I get stuck with something, there is nothing wrong with that. 
 
Bogs
 

29/06/2010 07:27:58
Terry,
 
The lowly flycutter, as I have found, ranks the same with me as D-bits. They can both do a great job, better than any commercial item costing tens of times more.
It is just a matter of learning how to make and use them correctly in the first place. Use a few basic rules, and they can perform wonders.
 
I use Photobucket for pics, and Youtube for vids. I have found that both of these allow you easier access to your items and display or play them directly on the web page (if they are allowed).. Most of the others just send you to their own site and are a load of hassle, especially if playing vids, they can take a lifetime to buffer before they play, if at all.
With photobucket, I can process my pics, upload them and have them displayed on the web page in a matter of minutes.
For processing my pics I use a freebie prog called Fastone  Photo Resizer, available here.
 
Once set up, I can resize (usually from MB's to kb's), colour correct, rename and watermark dozens of pics in seconds, ready to upload to Photobucket and correctly sized to fit a web page.
 
Bogs

28/06/2010 15:46:16
 I did a writeup here for making a flycutter that will not only take off rather large hunks (I regulary take 1mm off with this on brass and ali) but gives a great mirror finish when small cuts are taken.
 
 
Bogs
Thread: Myford alternative
25/06/2010 16:21:43
Mark,
 My far eastern machine only has a 38mm bore (1.5") and costs a massive £3k. You can get the machine somewhat cheaper (around £2K) if you get the basic version without the DRO and all the fittings.
 
http://www.chesteruk.net/store/crusader_lathe.htm

 
Here are a few of the links I told you about, where I made interchangeable tooling between my lathe and mill.
 
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1993.0
 
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2002.0
 
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2249.0
 
One thing I was thinking about showing on here was a special threading toolholder, which if you had a reversing spindle on your lathe makes external threading as easy as pie, taking away all the fears that new modellers have with screwcutting. But because it would take me forever to rewrite it all to show on here, here is a link to the article.
 
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2323.0
 
BTW I managed to get the cut/paste sorted, it looks like this site doesn't like working with Firefox and all it's great features. I had to skin the features to the bone to get it to work.
 
 
Bogs
 

 
 

Edited By Bogstandard on 25/06/2010 16:26:03

24/06/2010 20:10:18
Jason,
 
That was the one, plus I had a couple of others.
 
Ian,

If Myford came up with a decent sized lathe and not one that has been cobbled together for the last sixty years, and reduced their exhorbitant prices for even the tiniest of fittings, then maybe they would get more of a following.
Looking to the past isn't the way to look forwards. If Myford want to go under like the rest of the others, just because they can't come up with something new and at a REASONABLE price, well I am very sorry, that is their fault, not mine.
I am only using Myford threads because the tooling coming in from the far east uses it and I find it dead easy to reproduce on my lathe.  Maybe I should have chosen Boxford/Atlas instead, then I wouldn't be accused of trying to emulate such an out of date machine, even though the other two are out of date as well.
 
David,
 
Even typing this short post with basically nothing in it was horrendous.
My main gripe is that my paste doesn't work, even in your 'add' links at the top, even ctrl V doesn't work.
Any other site and the post would be done in a couple of minutes, whereas on here it takes forever, and even then I can't get it to do what I want.
 
This text editor is about the worst thing I have ever come across. Designed so that everything is difficult to do.
 
Bogs
 
 
 
 


24/06/2010 17:18:18
I have loads of things I could show you about turning almost any lathe into a Myford nosed one, as I use interchangeable tooling between my lathe and mill, but until this stupid website allows easy posting of URL's then I am sorry, I cannot help, and I expect a few other people have the same problem as well.
 
They seem to have this site geared towards selling you stuff you don't want, rather than helping people with their problems.
 
A very frustrated
 
Bogs
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