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Member postings for Bogstandard

Here is a list of all the postings Bogstandard has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Dangerous Practices
14/09/2010 10:46:52
Axel,
 
I'm with you all the way, but just one thing, common sense seems to be sadly lacking nowadays. You only have to look about when going down the street.
 
I am a great believer in using old tried and tested methods, and if I come across a mounting problem, I refer back to my collection of old engineering hardbacks for inspriration.
Those were the days when they didn't have all the modern gizmos, and you just got stuck in and got the job done.
 
Some people nowadays seem to want the job to jump up on the machine and mount themselves, using hundreds of clamps and bolts. In the real world, it just isn't like that. You have to make your own decisions if what you are doing is safe or not. If you are incapable of doing that,  there are plenty of knitting patterns knocking about on the web.
 
 
Bogs
Thread: Die Filer files
09/09/2010 21:22:25
Everything is now sorted.
 
Cost of 14 files, USPS charge, customs charge and Post office £8 ripoff all comes to approx £68-50. So the files work out to just under 5 squid each.
 
I'm very happy at that, as the amount I have ordered should last me for the rest of my natural.
 
So many thanks for the link Kwil, and I hope anyone else who has a need will follow my example.
 
Ian,
 
You have to be very careful nowadays when declaring things as gifts, over the last couple of years they have really clamped down.
I would suggest you have a read of this, go down the page a bit to 'gifts'

 
Bogs
08/09/2010 23:39:37
Don't hold your breath Kwil, they haven't got back to me yet with the postal charges. But it was definitely a good link, everything I need is there, thanks again.
 
I asked them to ship by the cheapest possible method.
 
If I get no joy going direct, I will get a US mate to buy them and send them to me.  I am in no rush just yet.
 
 
Bogs
Thread: Making studs
08/09/2010 12:34:00
Hi Peter,
 
The easy way to overcome the damage is to thread one end first on all your studs.
 
Then put a bit of scrap bar into your chuck, face it off and drill and tap to your required thread. Put a half width nut on the stud thread and screw stud into the just made hole, using the nut to lock it into position. Keep the nut as close to the middle plain portion of the stud as possible.
 
Cut your second thread, slacken lock nut and screw out. Repeat with all your other studs.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Bogs
Thread: Die Filer files
08/09/2010 01:59:13
Ian,
 
I have already ordered a goodly selection of all shapes from that US link, in fact at least one of each of the smaller range.
They seem to have accepted my payment, I am just waiting on them now to see how much the postage is, that is usually the killer bit from the US, in fact I have had things sent across where the postage was double the cost of the items, but if needs must. Then there will be the dreaded customs charges and of course the obligatory post office rip off 8 squid to tell you that there is duty to pay.
 
All because I have a duff right arm!!!
 
Maybe I should try to reclaim it all back from the NHS, as it was them who buggered it up even worse than it was.
 
Bogs
07/09/2010 20:05:10
Axel,
 
That sounds rather expensive.
 
 
Dusty,
 
I am not to be making dies, but intricate shapes out of various metals, even stacked up to maybe 10 layers thick. Most of the work will be done on the mill, but because I can't put pressure on a hand file for long, the die filer is going to become my right arm.
 
I can use my scroll saw for one offs in non ferrous, but it just cannot cope with large stacks or ferrous items.
 
I have had a basic reply from the US company mentioned by KWIL, so I will try them out and see how far I can get before the money payment part gets rejected. They stock exactly what I need.
 
Bogs
07/09/2010 16:02:07
Ian,
 
I have from 5/32" upwards, but even 1/8" won't produce a sharp enough corner, thanks anyway.
 
KWIL,
 
Thamks for the link, I have sent them an email to see if they can supply. As usual the US is very difficult to deal with concerning payment, and these are no exception.
 
But I am trying.
 
Thanks again
 
Bogs
07/09/2010 04:33:27
Hansrudolf,
 
Many thanks for the links. I would think they would be way out of my price range.
 
After using all sorts of hand files upside down, the only really good ones I have are the parallel sided chainsaw files, but they are of limted use because of their large sizes.
 
I really have no idea of what is available, but a fine triangle, square and eliptical double sided would give me all that I really need, just so that I can get into really tight corners.
 
The most common problem with files is the taper or length, Swiss needle files are ok but difficult to hold with top and bottom support, and they are just too fragile if just mounted with the bottom clamp, the tips just snap off as pressure is applied.
 
So really I should be searching for dedicated files.
 
Bogs
 

Thread: C3 Purchased
06/09/2010 09:27:22
What a total waste of space you lot have turned out to be.
 
Here is Bob, who is over the moon with his latest aquisition, and you lot come along and totally spoil it by spouting off about mugs showing up in a post.
 
Shame on you, and the admin for not stopping the hijack sooner.
 
 
Bob,
 
You are going the right way with your new lathe, cleaning it down (white spirits or WD40 is good for removing dragon grease), and adjusting it correctly to your own satisfaction.
 
They turn out to be a great little machine if you take the time to do what you are doing.
 
Having 'fixed' a few, most of the time, it is down to correct adjustment, not something wrong with the actual lathe.
 
Just enjoy it.
 
Bogs
Thread: Die Filer files
06/09/2010 09:03:34
I have been using normal files with my die filer, now I need to progress onto a little more intricate work.
 
Can anyone suggest a source for reasonably priced correct die filer files?
 
 
Bogs
Thread: Is this hobby dying?
05/09/2010 12:41:30
I personally think the main problem nowadays is that youngsters want instant gratification, and the thought of spending even a month making something fills them with horror.
 
Having come thru the ranks of trials and tribulations, I have noticed a great difference in the way the 'hobby' is now being carried out.
 
At one time, you solved the problem and made it by the best method you could come up with, mainly due to lack of machinery and tooling.
 
Nowadays, with more money about as disposable income, and I am guilty of this as well, you just buy another bit of tooling to get the job done, rather than relying on old fashioned techniques.
 
My grandson has now chosen to go into engineering, so as well as his college work, I will be getting him into the shop for the next couple of years to give him a good grounding in using machinery. Whether he carries on with it after that can only be his decision.
 
Bogs
Thread: Which milling vice
04/09/2010 10:25:29
If you can get the overall length of the vice, then halve it. That should then roughly be the width of your table. So if the 4" vice is 12" (300mm) overall length, then that will be the largest you should fit to your table, which is 6" (150mm) wide. Half on, half off, overhanging the front of the table.
 
Be VERY careful, some cast vices look to be very good value, but when you open the jaws, where there should be support next to the fixed jaw for resting your parallels on, you can find it is just a rough cast trough.  The last one on the page in the link in David's post above is just such a fellow, I should know, I am having to fill in the crappy area and refinish it on the surface grinder for a friend.
 
I have been using Vertex 'K' series for many years, and have yet to buy a bad one. The only problem is with them is that the support under the jaws doesn't go the full width of the jaws.
 
The 'Kurt' type clones seem very popular as they usually open that little bit wider, and the holding area at the bottom of the jaws usually goes right across the full width of the jaws, but again, there are some rough ones about, plus also there is no centre support on them, and tiny bits can fall under the vice on some, past the main leadscrew.
 
 
You can see what I mean from the pictures about no centre support, and the leadscrew running thru the centre.
 
I hope this helps.
 
 
Bogs
Thread: My Paddleducks Book
03/09/2010 14:07:21
Seeing as there have been no complaints, and the download total is growing at an alarming rate, I suppose everything is OK now.
 
Bogs
Thread: lathes
02/09/2010 10:51:59
Ady,
 
"Once you've had a lathe with a slotted cross slide you really wouldn't want to do without it."
 
As suggested in the couple of posts above, they are definitely not a neccessity.
 
I will most probably be making a drop on adapter plate for my lathe, because in about another year, I have a large project coming up, and  I 'might' have to bolt something to the cross slide, but on the other hand, I might not have to. There are many different ways to skin a cat.
 
I for one wouldn't use the 'not having a slotted slide' as an excuse for not buying a lathe that has all the other features on it that I required. That feature is way down the priorities list.
 
 
Bogs
02/09/2010 04:32:17
My last old lathe was an Atlas 10F, and the one that replaced it was a Chester Crusader. Neither has a T slotted cross slide.

Have I been doing something wrong for the last twenty years? Have I been unable to build something because of that ommision? I don't think so.
 
Unless you are very lucky, you will never get a 'perfect' machine that has all the facilities you will ever require. You must compromise, and find the one that has most of the features that you think you will ever need, then adapt either yourself or your machine to do the things it can't do straight from the factory.
 
To me, the main things I want are thread cutting, the ability to run backwards very easily, a power cross feed and a tailstock that can easily be offset and returned to it's original position without it becoming a major project. Everything over and above that is a bonus.
 
This thing we do is, and always has been, a challenge to make the parts with what we have available to us. If you are unable to do that, I think knitting patterns are the only type you should be looking at.
 
This isn't a plug and play hobby, like most modern things, but one where you have to use your brain, which if you are lucky, and like most people, is situated somewhere behind your nose and eyes and between your ears.
 
 
Bogs
Thread: Where is my post?
01/09/2010 16:01:57
Many thanks David, I have now copied it into the main forum, where it will hopefully help a few new members to get their feet wet.
 
Bogs
Thread: My Paddleducks Book
01/09/2010 15:59:52
A few years ago, I did an engine build on the Paddleducks website.
 
It was designed, written and catalogued as it progressed, no plans, just sketches and making things to fit as it went along. All written and described in laymans terms, for an audience of people with very little machining skills.
 
It is a fairly large engine for it''s bore and stroke, and wasn''t really designed to go into anything, but by the many builds that have taken place since of this engine, it has shown that even a relative beginner can fabricate this engine, and end up with a nice working and complicated looking display model, or you could even put it to work.
 
There are still a few builds in progress on model engineering sites, namely Madmodders and Home Model Engine Machinist, and has become a rather popular engine to make for say a second or third build, there is even one chappie who is building five of them off site, at the same time, and is in regular contact with me about it. I think he is looking at maybe Christmas presents.
 
Luckily a gent at the time took the whole 2 month+ post and edited it completely, and turned it into a ''book'', resulting in a 22MB PDF file. So it should download fairly quickly.
 
I have had this for free download on a few sites, some no longer in existence, but now comes the crux of the matter. It will very soon no longer be available for download from Rapidshare, as I am letting that account lapse, but the good news is that it is now available on my new Hotfile server. During the last year, it has had nearly 1000 downloads, and a few thousand before that.
 
I make nothing from this, and I only do it for the love of trying to keep this hobby alive and interesting to new people to this art form, who could very easily be put off by too much technical jargon.
 
.
Main book as a plain RAR file, you unpack yourself.



Main book as a self extracting file. This does it all for you, just download and run the program, it will extract everything for you into the same directory as the exe file is in.


Plans dfx files, not done by me so take if you want them, I can''t guarantee them. This is again a self extracting file, so just run it.
 
Don''t worry if you don''t have a Hotfile account, if you wait a few seconds, you can download it as a free server. As a suggestion, download the self extracting one, it saves a lot of effort, and is guaranteed by me to be totally virus and other nasties free.
 
Just enjoy it for what it is, not only may your learn a few techniques and build an engine, you might also enjoy the sometime humourous ways it was written.
 
 
Bogs
Thread: Where is my post?
01/09/2010 10:19:51
A few years ago, I did an engine build on the Paddleducks website.
 
It was designed, written and catalogued as it progressed, no plans, just sketches and making things to fit as it went along. All written and described in laymans terms, for an audience of people with very little machining skills.
 
It is a fairly large engine for it''s bore and stroke, and wasn''t really designed to go into anything, but by the many builds that have taken place since of this engine, it has shown that even a relative beginner can fabricate this engine, and end up with a nice working and complicated looking display model, or you could even put it to work.
 
There are still a few builds in progress on model engineering sites, namely Madmodders and Home Model Engine Machinist, and has become a rather popular engine to make for say a second or third build, there is even one chappie who is building five of them off site, at the same time, and is in regular contact with me about it. I think he is looking at maybe Christmas presents.
 
Luckily a gent at the time took the whole 2 month+ post and edited it completely, and turned it into a ''book'', resulting in a 22MB PDF file. So it should download fairly quickly.
 
I have had this for free download on a few sites, some no longer in existence, but now comes the crux of the matter. It will very soon no longer be available for download from Rapidshare, as I am letting that account lapse, but the good news is that it is now available on my new Hotfile server. During the last year, it has had nearly 1000 downloads, and a few thousand before that.
 
I make nothing from this, and I only do it for the love of trying to keep this hobby alive and interesting to new people to this art form, who could very easily be put off by too much technical jargon.
 
.
Main book as a plain RAR file, you unpack yourself.



Main book as a self extracting file. This does it all for you, just download and run the program, it will extract everything for you into the same directory as the exe file is in.


Plans dfx files, not done by me so take if you want them, I can''t guarantee them. This is again a self extracting file, so just run it.
 
Don''t worry if you don''t have a Hotfile account, if you wait a few seconds, you can download it as a free server. As a suggestion, download the self extracting one, it saves a lot of effort, and is guaranteed by me to be totally virus and other nasties free.
 
Just enjoy it for what it is, not only may your learn a few techniques and build an engine, you might also enjoy the sometime humourous ways it was written.
 
 
Bogs

 

Edited By David Clark 1 on 01/09/2010 10:55:57

01/09/2010 06:08:03
David,
 
The only reason I posted it is because it is too large to send as an email attachment, 22MB. Otherwise I could have asked people to send me an email and I could have done it that way, but it would have meant I would be doing a full time and permanent job just sending them out.
 
I have just downloaded all three files, after turning my account off, and downloading as a free user, and waiting for over an hour after the first download to be allowed to download the second and then the third, each file came down perfectly and unpacked with no problems, both manually and self extracting. You have no need to download more than one file unless you want the CAD files as well.
 
I would suggest that you have a blocker turned on somewhere that stops you unpacking downloaded files. The files are definitely free of all infections, if they weren't, I would have been hung, drawn and quartered well before now.
 
I will get the files checked out on the HMEM site, just to double check they are OK, then resubmit them here.
 
 
Bogs
31/08/2010 19:59:28
No Jason, I put it on here because not everyone uses HMEM.
 
I thought that because there were so many new starters on here, it might be a good model for them to have a go at, or even have a read of because it does get over a few of the lacking machines and equipment problems.
 
Maybe moderation has deemed it not right to be in competition with this site, in which case they can....................... I won't finish it off just yet, I will see what they have to say first.
 
 
Bogs
 
 
 
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