Here is a list of all the postings Traction man has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Inverter Remote Stop button. |
20/02/2014 17:06:38 |
Hi Roger
Its not a problem (as far as I am conserned) the thing is these inverters are very versatile as they are used in hundreds of different applications, not just on ME machines. Its a matter of sorting out the functions you need. I do agree that the manual is hard going to find just the bit one needs, hence my comment about a call to Transwave, as they are using them every day they will know all the options that work.
Cheers |
20/02/2014 11:30:16 |
Hi Les You could be right, the instructions are an extract from the pendant programing instructions. I programed my unit as I have said, but looking at the main manual it is not clear if there is a dependancy between F01 and F02, it would need a call to Transwave to clarify.
Harry I looked at Rogers origonal posting and my understanding is that he does not have a pendant and he only want's to fit a latching stop button. The problem is that if you program for external inputs then the buttons on the inverter itself do not function as stop / start. At least that is my current understanding with the units I have.
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20/02/2014 08:20:13 |
Hi Roger I have been re checking the CUB programing manual and the previous information I gave is not the full story You do need to set F01 to 1 this sets the frequency input (terminal 12) to be active so that when it is linked to terminal 13 (which is +10 volts) the inverter will ramp up to full speed as programed. In addition you need to change the setting of F02 to 1 this sets the source of run command to external input, so that the external FWD and REV terminals are active.
Cheers |
20/02/2014 08:03:04 |
Hi Martin I have three Jaguar Cub inverters and the "Quick reference guide" that was included with them is for the VXR I have checked and I can find no difference between the full manual information and the Quick guide. That is not to say there is no difference internaly in the inverters, there are differences in the software as it would appear that the VXR has a different power curve to the CUB. Hence the price difference between the CUB family and the VXR. But the way the external connections are used looks to be the same between both families. I have found a phone call to Transwave to be very helpfull. I have to say that I am just a very satisfied customer and have no connection with the firm. Like Roger when I fitted a CUB inverter to my tool and cutter grinder I did not want a full pendant and the inverter was installed inside the cast stand so it was not accessable for just stop start functions. Cheers |
19/02/2014 20:22:52 |
Hi Roger On the IMO Jaguar VXR units if you want to have external controls / switches you need to change function F01 to 1 by default it is set at 0. This now activates the external inputs, if you do not want a full pendant function just a stop button. then it is wired between terminals PLC (which is +24 volt) and terminal FWD (forward) IN Addition if you do not need the speed control then a wire link (insulated) is needed between terminal 12 and terminal 13. (this will set the inverter to max speed as set by the programing). When the stop button is pressed the inverter will stop the motor quickly as reactive braking is applied, but NOT so quick as to spin the chuck or what ever off the nose. If you use a contactor to remove the power input to the inverter, Firstly the machine will take a lot longer to stop ( not good if you are tangled up in it !) and second you stand a good chance of damaging the inverter. Just a further point the time taken to get to speed and to slow to a stop is fully controllable in the software setup.
Hope this helps
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Thread: Nemet - Lynx |
26/01/2014 12:59:31 |
Hi Pete
Thanks for the lubrication information, it confirms what I suspected. As you say it is fine for short runs but not for serious long term running.
Cheers David |
25/01/2014 16:19:22 |
Hi Jason and Alan
Thanks for the conformation and appologies for the posting mixup. |
25/01/2014 10:30:52 |
Thanks Pete I must say your job is very impressive, I liked the video. Did you find that it used much oil and was that collected in the silencer. I have noted that very few small engines have oil control rings I am not sure why this is, perhaps it is to keep the piston short.
David |
25/01/2014 08:20:18 |
Hi Pete At the risk of let every one know I've lost the plot. Looking at the cam box drawing in the Best of Vol 3 page 38 the cam box depth is 15mm and the offset is given as 8mm giving 0.5mm. But the text says 1mm as does Alan above. Can you clarify which is correct. If it is 1mm then the bearing housing is only 1.5mm from the head face. Thanks David |
17/11/2013 16:44:33 |
Correct Cam cutting table is in the thread "Best of Model Engineer 3" on page 7 posting by Katy Purvis pdf's for down load by Jason Hope this helps.
David |
17/11/2013 15:40:25 |
There is a correct table for the cam cutting, on a previous thread on this web site. As to having to assemble tha cams inside the housing. As far as I know that is not correct, that is why the bearing outer diameter is as large as it is, so that the cams will pass through. |
Thread: Smart & Brown Lathe L type |
30/10/2013 15:30:20 |
Hi Ted I had a look on the Lathes web site but there is only a short comment about it being fitted to the LPH type head stock, but there are no pictures or diagrams as to its construction. you could email Tony and see if he has any further information. I have a model M so cannot really help further.
David |
Thread: Smart & Brown |
13/05/2013 13:47:14 |
Hello Norman
Thanks for the quick responce. I will give the group a go and see what comes back. I must admit that I am a bit reluctant to strip the saddle as it looks quite complicated and I am not a mechanical man by profession. |
13/05/2013 13:24:36 |
Hello I am in the process of re furbishing a S&B model M Mk2 lathe, The problem I have is with the sliding feed, it keeps dropping out even if you hold the engagment lever up as far as it will go. Looking in the manual it appears to be a sort of cone drive. But I cannot see any adjustment on it. If any one has any ideas I would be very greateful before I strip the whole saddle apart. Regards David |
Thread: Bridgeport electrics |
05/05/2013 20:35:23 |
Hi Nick
You are correct in saying the feed won't run with out the main motor running, this is a safety feature I would not bypass this, as it is easy to forget the table is still moving on a very slow feed. Do you have the origonal feed motor speed control module, if so there is a wireing diagram in the manual. Regards David |
05/05/2013 19:16:23 |
Hi Nick Do you have a manual ? if not then the best one I have found can be found via the following convoluted path 1 go to www.bridgeport.askmisterscience.com 2 scroll down to Bridgeport literature and manuals 3 select Bridgeport M105H series manual PDF 26.4 mb 4 which should down load from a site www.bbssystem.com for some reason you cannot go straight to this site
regards David |
05/05/2013 18:27:23 |
Hi Nick I meant to say that this is a compleatly seperate issue to how you supply the 440 Volt three phase supply to the machine.
Regards David |
05/05/2013 18:22:50 |
Hi Nick The Power feeds I have fitted are the Bridgeport 6F type to help you identify the motors fitted on my machine are as follows Motor "Fracmo" made by "Factional HP motors Ltd Enfield England Frame No H39412TBX Volts 90A 100F Phase DC Amps 4.6 RPM 4500 HP 370 Watts Rating INT (intermitent)
On the front panel is a "Feed Rate" control and a "Rapid Traverse" Switch Please note the motors are DC not AC and must be driven by an electronic speed control unit, This is normaly in the bottom of the electric's Cabinet Does this fit with what you have ? Regards David |
04/05/2013 20:58:40 |
Hi Nick Les is quite right I have a machine which has power feed on either the X or Y feed, not both together you should have a large transformer which supplies 110 volt for the power feed electronics and also a low volts feed for the machine light, this can be either 12 Volts or 24 Volts or 50 Volts. when I got my machine the power feeds were not working. this turned out to be two faults one in the electronic speed control unit ( mine is a long black box at the bottom of the power cabinet and the other was one of the speed setting pots on the motor unit its self. I would not worry about the markings on the motors. On my machine this transformer also feeds the coolant pump. regards David |
Thread: Importance of the forum in your life. |
25/02/2013 17:51:31 |
As a beginner I have found the information invaluable, on all aspects of our hobby. I try and look in at least once a day to see what is being discussed. Long may it remain so. |
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