Hi

I have been working though this. Here are a series of drills I'd done with the machine out of the box. Either a flat relief or going the wrong way

I ground a pointer and installed it in the drill holder and offered the point to the grinding wheel

As I had suspected putting it into the setup jig the there was a gap between the end of the pointer and the touch plate in the jig.

Looking at it the other way round if a drill bit was set against the touch plate the extra material would need to be ground off before the grinding ceased. This would then mean that the cutting lips would be ground beyond the intended location on the flutes.

This should be easily resolved as the grinding wheel can be moved along the motor shaft. However, on my unit flat on the shaft, that the grub screw bears on doesn't allow the grinding wheel to be moved far enough. That is, after the pointer has been set to the correct length on the setup jig, the tip of the pointer should be just rubbing on the grinding surface.

I have tried with the grub screw being clamped directly on the motor shaft and not the flat and using the machine like this I get perfect results with drills from 3mm to 12mm.

I now need to work out how to get the split point to work. I think there will need to be a compromise between the position of the grinding wheel for the basic grind and the split point.

So when doing split point on the Sealey do you reset the drill bit in the jig after doing the basic grind? The Chinglish instructions that came with my clone don't advise to do it but some YouTube videos say you do.

Pete

Edited By Doubletop on 27/12/2018 02:41:19

Great thread. I'm going to have a play with my Sealey 2008 clone today. The realisation that the ginding wheel position was adjustable and would affect the depth of cut is the basis of my investigation . I have an idea of an approach to doing the basic setup without making it hit and miss. I'll see it there is a way of ensuring the split point still works. It may be a case of the best compromise position of the wheel to accomodate both.

Pete

I do understand that there are many ways of tackling drill sharpening but the purpose of this thread is really a question about using this particular piece of equipment.

I've been thinking about the problem I raised and an observation that my machine seems to want to take off too much material. When the amount of grind is reduced it seems to get it right. I have an idea I'm going to test tomorrow and if I'm right it will be about correctly positioning the grinding wheel on the motor shaft. It is designed to be adjusted.

I'll let you know how I get on

Pete

Up to now I've managed to survive with the occasional 4 facet sharpen of my larger drills and purchasing of the smaller sizes. I have a growing box of blunt drills so was given a variant of the Sealey 2008 for Christmas.

It works OK but following the instructions the relief comes out a little flat and on smaller drills it can be in the wrong direction.

Once the drill bit is position in the tool holder using the setup jig the instruction is to grind each side until there is no sound of grinding. I have found that if I don't grind until it goes quiet a reasonable relief can be achieved but you have to keep eyeballing the grind to check if it is symetrical. Which sort of defeats the intent of this piece of kit

What am I doing wrong or do I have a duff one?

Pete

Edited By Doubletop on 26/12/2018 04:46:15

Yes I thought I recognised it but yesterday I found a page on that website that went through the chronology of Marconi radar systems. Find one that is around the right period and you may be on to something. Then maybe go to the Bawdsey mob and ask them. Or just send them an email with your photos and see if they recognise it.

Pete

Far too robust and agricultural for an avionics system. Civilian, ground or naval radar maybe? An interesting read here. **LINK**

and maybe try theses guys

**LINK**

Dave's thoery of the reason for pink cables was interesting. On all the system mods I installed I can't remember ever using different coloured wires to define the mod. There would have been too many other things that could be replaced that couldn't be defined by the colour. If you wanted to know about a mod you checked the mod record plate and obtained a copy of the mod instruction and read it.

The discussion about BBC, Atari type computers is also incorrect. The only similarity would be the use of a 9pin D connector. This is clearly a milspec item and the design process would have started well before 1977 so pre-dates home computers by many years. If you are really lucky it could be one of the protocols around at the time, but I'd suggest unlikely. The good news will be that once you find out what it is one of todays  micro controllers could be pressed into converting the protocol to whatever you want it to be.

Pete

Edited By Doubletop on 24/08/2018 23:20:00

So they are!! Thanks for that **LINK**

Pete

As a bit of an aside; up to the late 60’s all avionics cabling was colour coded.

I was an RAF avionics apprentice in the mid 60’s, one of the guys in our entry had managed to get through the entry tests despite being colour blind. When we were doing training on systems he’d ask us to help him identify anything with colours cables, resistors etc. We thought nothing of it and would help him out. This went on for three years and at the end, as he was one of the brightest guys, he got selected for a commission as an engineering officer. He went for medical and they then discovered that he was colour blind. Rock and a hard place for the RAF, one of their top guys and they couldn’t use him. He got packed off to uni at their expense and then civvy street.

Pete

Michael

What you describe is very much military style construction, the description of the pink wiring gives me a flashback to some avionics systems I have worked on in that era.

I understand your reluctance to pull it apart. After testing with a meter your curiosity may get the better of you. Unlike consumer products the cost of manufacture made it a necessity to design them to be maintained. There will be a way of investigating its internals without compromising it too much.

Pete

Edited By Doubletop on 24/08/2018 08:34:24

As Bruce suggests the first place to look always is Alibaba or Aliexpress

US$3.24 for a pack of 100 here **LINK**

with the tooling and 50 inserts

US$10.69 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/50pcs-Stainless-Steel-Coiled-Wire-Insert-Thread-Repair-Insert-Helical-Screw-Threaded-Inserts-Kit-M3-x/32908210666.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10342_10547_10343_10340_10059_10341_10548_10696_100031_10084_10083_10103_10618_10307_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_56,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=1ccad54c-51c0-4bb9-80f0-32e41b5412f5-2&algo_pvid=1ccad54c-51c0-4bb9-80f0-32e41b5412f5&priceBeautifyAB=0

(no idea what happened with the link there but it works)

Pete (NZ)

Edited By Doubletop on 24/08/2018 08:17:43

A bit of lateral investigation. The F1158-02 circulator is still available from E2V https://www.cornestech.co.jp/tech/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/02/e2v_microwave_product_guide.pdf (page 6) Teledyne E2V are based in Chelmsord and sprung from the break up of GEC Marconi. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E2V

The F1158-02 in the catalogue has the same spec as the item on the link Michael provided in his first post. 'F' means ferrite, not Frimley.

Not a lot to do with the joystick but a clue maybe to ask E2V?

Pete

Yes a very familiar format but for those less familiar, not to confuse MOD with MoD. MODification Record vs Ministry of Defence

Pete

Not quite solid state but how about two strain gauges in the X and Y axis? Does the joystick move much? I can't recall what system it was related to but I remember a joystick system, from about the same era, that had limited movement in the X/Y axis.

If it does use strain gauges, and assuming no amplifiers in the way, it would be easy to identify the two Wheatstone bridges with a meter. It would only need 6 pins for two bridges. One other for ground shield and the remaining two for the non existant push button switch(es)

Take the lid off and a photo of the internals would be helpfull

Pete

I may be way off the mark here but the absence of a nato stock number (NSN) would indicate that it wasn't a military item. By 1977 anything that moved or could be removed would have had an NSN.

The 'D' connector only having an sliding retainer would also indicate that it wouldn't have been used on anything military that moved. They would have used screw retainers and in serious applications wire lock them. Then again an Amphenol type socket would have been used.

So with the circulator a civilian ground radar system?

(Just noticed that Bazyle has said much the same thing, but then we did work at Stanmore at the same time...)

Pete

Edited By Doubletop on 24/08/2018 06:12:32

Gary

Just get the data sheets and compare them

Loctite 5770

**LINK**

Loctite 572

**LINK**

Loctite 567

**LINK**

Permatex 59214

**LINK**

Rocol steamseal

**LINK**

Pete

Edited By Doubletop on 10/08/2018 09:47:46

Grant

I could not be considered a loctite expert, by any stretch. The numbering system appears chaotic so assuming anything with a similar number will be a similar product will be incorrect. As you have also found some products appear to be available in some locations but not in others. Some products referenced by you guys in the UK aren't available in here NZ. At one point I was of the opinion that the same product had different numbers in different locations.

You are looking for a product to seal a fitting into a bush in your boiler so a pipe thread sealant would seem appropriate. 567 is/was generally used but it is low strength and 592 looks like it is a replacment for 567. However, I stumbled across 5770 recently and it is medium strength and fittings stay where you put them without the need for a back nut. Its high temp and high pressure. The tube I have says “for use with steam” (or something similar, my tube is on loan) so it would seem the most appropriate.

Again, I suggest reading the spec sheets. They are all in a similar style so comparisons can be made although detailed analysis can turn out to be a bit confusing.

Pete

Gary

Loctite 577 is nothing at all like 5770 I'm afraid. Just check the spec sheets. If Amazon UK doesn't have it Amazon.com does.

These days you should always look for alternative offshore suppliers regardless of where they are in the world. You'd be surprised what difference there is on pricing regardless of any shipping and duty that may be incurred. I'm in NZ but buy my stuff from UK, Aus, China and the US. Unfortunately for NZ suppliers they are generally at the end of the list when it comes to value added goods.

Pete

Gary

Loctite 5770 is what you need

**LINK**

Pete

Edited By Doubletop on 08/08/2018 11:39:22

Hopper

I certainly support the purchase of books, I did when I started and I'm still buying and reading them. But you can't remember it all or substitute somebody looking over your shoulder and putting you straight, even though they may have been there 10 mins watching you stuff up.

Pete

Like Duncan I had making a rear tool post holder for my lathe. The problem was I didn’t have the benefit of a T slot cross slide like the Myfords. In the meantime, I gingerly used my parting tool in the front toolpost.

Then I had a eureka moment. My lathe has a D1-4 chuck and can run in reverse. I put the parting tool in upside down and haven’t looked back.

One of the pitfalls of being new to the game, and doing my apprenticeship on the internet, is that you don’t always get to hear about the tricks the old guys would passed on, on the shop floor.