Member postings for Gavin Carmichael

I always thought the whole point of using studs was that they act as a precise locating dowel and should be either a reamed fit or very close to it to prevent lateral movement. Whilst we probably tend to think of circular cylinder covers in relation to model engineering that usually have machined locating spigots there are many instances of rectangular covers with shaft bearings in them where this precision is necessary.

Additionally the plain portion should always be slightly larger in diameter than the threads to avoid thread damage when removing and replacing parts as has been mentioned in previous replies. The same argument can be used in the bolts versus set screws debate with the plain portion of the bolt acting as a locating dowel if all has been made correctly.

We should also distinguish between standard bolts and fitted bolts, the latter being both dowels and very tight fits with round heads for driving into place so that there is no need to use 2 spanners.

Hi

Just to update everyone I tried the excellent suggestion from Les Jones using the threaded oval plate.

I used an endoscopic camera (bought from Aldi for boiler inspection work) to position it and a long 5/16" Whit setscrew with an extra nut and large washer on it below the spacer rings (old ballrace inners) bearing on the spindle nose. I held the bolt head with one spanner and tightened the nut up with another. It worked perfectly and the sleeve turned out ot be a cut down drill sleeve rather than a proper lathe mandrel sleeve.

Kind regards

Gavin

Hi

Thank you to all who have replied so far and thanks for the helpful and varied suggestions. I have downloaded the parts list and diagram suggested by Springbok - very useful. I have already tried using a bent bar down the drawbar hole but can't angle it enough to catch the end of the sleeve. I will give some of the other suggestions a try starting with the least destructive and let you know how I get on in due course.

Regards to all

Gavin

Our club has accquired an Alpine "Complex" Mill/Drill, Model DM 25 Circa 1980 (Graham Engineering), that I believe is one of the early Taiwanese imports. As far as I can see from the capacities stated on the front plate and the size and height of the ejector slot this machine should be 3 morse taper in the spindle, however it appears that the previous owner has inserted an open ended 3 - 2 morse sleeve, of the type that would normally go in a lathe mandrel, into the spindle. This means that any 2 morse drills inserted are not driven by the tang and also the ejector slot is too high up for them. We have tried to remove this sleeve but are unable to gain acces to the rear of it to apply any force on it due to the 1/2" drawbar hole and the tang slot for 3 morse sleeves.

Does anyone have a diagram of how these mill spindles are constructed or instructions so that we can strip it down and try to remove it, or alternatively can anyone suggest an easy way of getting this out without destructive removal?