Member postings for bernard towers

I’ve got one of those, always assumed it was Myford it’s accurately made and have used it on the mill in various ways

Sorry but no such thing as a good cheap mig welder, reliable current and wire speed control come at a premium!

+1 for Dag Browns book, well written all processes done step by step and the reasons why. Really interesting project and yes the work.

My caliper did the same as the first post so rang MIT and they supplied me with a new reader head for £40, job done good as new.

If it’s kaowool I split mine down on my DNY so it is about 5/32 thick.

If it’s kaowool I split mine down on my DNY so it is about 5/32 thick.

Used them 3 weeks ago, all ok

Hacksaw, you made me smile

Why not steel?. Get yourself some EN1A leaded and some brass/ Ali 6082 T6. You will find Delrin/Acetal quite expensive but nice to work with. Macc Models are a good supplier

You only need cutter holders with round holes the size of the corner dims and 1 grubscrew to hold it in place. Or go the whole hog and dump the main shaft and make a new one with er collets then problem solved.

I assume when you say it broke that it is just in two pieces so why not repair it ( silver solder/ bronze weld) your comics are many, and if it’s only temporary put the lathe together and make a new one.

BT ENGINEERINGused similar devices not with chain but wire rope and had portable tripods from which it was centrally hung. I think it was for large carriageway/ footway cover lifting

Drilling holes is about how sharp your drill just as much as horsepower and for stainless how slow can you get down to.?

Drilling holes is about how sharp your drill just as much as horsepower and for stainless how slow can you get down to.?

There’s a bit on electric winding in his turret clock book ,I used it as the basis for mine using more modern encased tilt switch

Of course what you must remember is that although the solder ingredients before use are not necessarily what is left after the joint is made some is burnt off. Best ask Keith Hale about that.

Of course what you must remember is that although the solder ingredients before use are not necessarily what is left after the joint is made some is burnt off. Best ask Keith Hale about that.

Regarding the auto dot punches they do move as it does two operations to mark the material, I made the one from a 1940’s model engineer which is semi auto. The operation of it means that you preload it before putting the point on your material then press the button for marking, this gives no recoil = no movement. The body is quite chunky but it works.

Shortening jobber drills is ok for the odd job but they still flex as the shank is soft where the true stub drill is all hard

I believe single hole demurrers/ counter sinks are elliptically sharpened