If all else fails have you thought about making your own

Some pictures of the buffer beams and the first horn block ready for splitting when the rivet holes have been drilled, from the other day. As they are milled as a pair I have punched a single mark on either end and also in the first frame cut out as well as engraved a L and R on the appropriate side. Hopefully if I do this to all of them the axles should end up nice and square to the frame.

Thank you Bruce for those words of wisdom I will now be aware of that and at lest know how to solve it. I will drill the holes in the frames from the blocks but may do so before splitting them which will give a guide for when I do split them.

I also will mark them so they only will be fitted to either left or right side as well as which slot they will fit into.

From my very limited experience in model engineering but experience in repairing power tools up to diggers, I would start with examining the loco to see the obvious faults and go from there.

Many parts will need to be made rather than sourced. those on here with a lot more experience than I hopefully will come along and give better advice.

Pictures of the loco not just a general one but some detailed ones of the running gear may also help.

There is a how to for adding pictures somewhere on the site

Thank you all for the great responses and also those members that have contacted me over this

More mornings spent in the garden getting rid of some ornamental grass we do not want finishing the veg area ready for planting.

Afternoons workshop time finished the rear buffer beam riveting and today making a start on the horn blocks first one machined to fit the frames quite pleased nice fit no photos. Still got two more pairs to do as they are joined I am able to do a pair at a time which will be ideal as once split they can be fitted in the same pair on the frames so should all line up later on

I have only grown money maker toms with no problem keep them fed and watered always had a good crop

I am looking to buy a couple of micrometers one being a 2-3" and the other 3-4 these are going to be for occasional use unlike the ones I already have which are a mix of M & W, Starrett and Mitutoyo, these I do use on a regular basis.

Any thought on the Dasgua (Chronos) ones or even the new look M&W ones with the blue plastic looking bits on them. Any others which can be recommended please.

I don't need to know the ins and outs (Of a dogs rear end) of them just are they any good and accurate

 I am only working from experience as I have in the past fired various weapons from the humble .22 right up to 120mm

The saw cut(or what appears to be) may be someones attempt at removing the head and got it wrong and should have cut further down the casing to miss the head to remove it intact. Not that I would want to do so.

I do also use casings to make pens    

Edited By Derek Lane on 06/03/2022 16:37:43

Edited By Derek Lane on 06/03/2022 16:38:18

Edited By Derek Lane on 06/03/2022 16:38:44

I would say yes one tooth is cutting leaving a larger radius in the corner than the other two but that also means that the tooth that comes to a full radius and a sharp corner has less work to do.

Bill Phinn I agree woodworker do tend to call what you describe as a ripping cut but unless you are not worried about a finish it will 9 out of 10 times leave and undesirable finish and it would need to be put through a planer or if that way inclined a hand plane to get an surface that is needed for fine furniture.

Very nice Nigel may have to do that with mine looks easier than having to fiddle with the two bolts underneath the stop assembly

I have the very same one did need to strip it and clean it up for the adjuster to operate smoother than supplied

Yes I agree that it is the head of a bullet. But I do not think it has been fired the marks on it are too straight and are more consistent with it being pulled from the casing.

Not so much as what did I do today but more like what I have been up to over the last week.

As it is that time of year that the garden needs attention I have dug the veg patch sown seeds repotted some plants and even found some unknown flower bulbs so stuck those into some pots to see what comes of them.

The greenhouse also needed attention like replace some glass after the winds only three panels and dug the borders in there.

I also ordered the rest of the castings for the Rob Roy so I knew I had them all when needed.

There was also time for some metal work drilled and riveted some angle to a buffer beam pretty happy with it especially on the front where there is only slight evidence of the rivets(A little reading helped here about length and the counter sink for them)

I enjoy reading a book and have found answers in them for example I am riveting up the buffer beams and wanted to know how much of the rivet needs to be above the work so it forms into the counter sunk hole also found out that a full tapered counter sink is not ideal but one with a little straight sides gives a better fix.

Yes it would have been simple to ask or google. I do search but get so fed up of adverts which has nothing to do with what I am searching for but then I am just useless at computers.

I even try to search on here quite often to no avail again down to me not knowing what words to use to get the results I want.

I am also aware that asking a question can bring multiple answers as we all do things different as well as those that seem to just want to wonder off topic, which does not help a newbie.

For those that I have looked at I prefer to buy the book as I enjoy reading those that interest me and can flip back and forth very quickly especially if they say look at fig so and so I put a finger in the page I am reading and go to the fig in question then simply go back to the page I am on.

Those that I have seen for download seem like a lot of faffing about if you need to do as I described from a printed book

Have a search for "concrete sectional buildings" you may find what you are looking for

Mine arrived this morning

For those that want to hold stamps inline.

I use Renaissance wax polish but the problem with that is it is a gloss finish but it does work wonders