Member postings for David Colwill

I agree that for some reason there doesn't seem to be as many but put this down to the fact that the site changes over time. There have been long periods where there is nothing of interest here at all (for me) and also periods where there has been many threads that I have followed. That said Clives bee keeping is always fascinating and Neils / others astronomical bits and pieces are of interest.

Regards

David

That's worth knowing!

Thanks.

David

Great work.

Having sorted out the various issues with fit and alignment, now would be a good time to think of raising the headstock by 4 inches and fitting a 3hp motor

David

Yes but then no chuck you ever own will be big enough. There is a mathematical formula that proves this, commonly referred to as sods law.

Whilst this is a simple and on the face of it obvious idea, I wish I had thought to do it a couple of weeks ago when I attempted a job with a similar overhang.

Regards.

David.

Hi,

On the wheel guard of my machine it says oil with Mobil velocite no 5 (I think) 90% and kerosene 10%. I will have a better look tomorrow.

Regards.

David.

Hi,

Thanks for the replies. I will look at it tomorrow and report back.

John, I have a spare shaft with the taper on that you can borrow to check.

David, yes you are right about the oil.

Mark, if you do draw ur the arbours I would like a copy of your drawings.

Thanks.

David

Hi,

I have a Jones and Shipman 540. I did have a copy of the manual but can't find it. I seem to remember that the wheelhead should heat up to about 68 degrees c when running. Mine is much cooler than this and I wonder whether I should be adjusting the bearings. I should also point out that it is the standard head and not the roller bearing one.

Could anyone confirm the figure of 68 degrees and does anyone know the procedure for adjusting the bearings?

Finally if anyone has a pdf of the manual I would be eternally grateful.

Thanks in advance.

David.

I suppose what bothers me most is that they probably sell quite a few of these in this condition and get away with it. They certainly have on this occasion.

Making new handles, spending a few hours adjusting and general fettling, I think we all expect that but this.....

David

Would it be possible to rename this thread to include "Optimum Lathe" in the title. Often when looking for information on machines this site comes fairly near the top in searches. If the title indicates the make and model of lathe, others looking for info are likely to read it. This may save some other poor sod who hasn't got help from someone as kind and skilled as Hopper.

I am a great supporter of imported machines and have said so on many occasions. I always expect to do some work to improve them but this seems to be well past that point. Hopper has highlighted a number of faults any one of which would have justified a return with full refund and while I expect that the odd fault could slip by quality control, it is hard to imagine how this one got by unless there is none at all.

What makes this worse to me is that this is exactly the sort of lathe to be bought by a complete beginner. I wonder how many people have simply given up thinking that they are doing something wrong.

Rant over.

Regards

David

Stick welding, in my circle of friends, is affectionately known as "Hum-splat" welding.

Don't ask me why

Regards.

David.

I've had one for ages. I was given it as the temperature control was bust. I spent some time and quite a bit of cash fitting it up with a modern controller and thermocouple. Result I've never used it since. Would I sell it? NO NO NO it's MINE!

At some point I'd like to do case hardening in it. When that will be is anybodies guess.

David.

I've got a PR electronics 5514 controller and a cheapo k type thermocouple here. I'm not sure if they will fit together but if you are willing to have a go.......

David.

Only if it's in the original jiffy bag that it came in!

There has been a trend to confuse buyers by various means including using different units of measurement, Peak output / rms, massaging figures and outright lies. I sympathise with Ketan but can't help but think that there is no answer but the one that he is adopting, namely just tell the truth.

I bought a Sieg X2 (brushless) off him. I have not studied the motor nor read the rating plate nor taken any measurements of it. I have used it and it is powerful enough but in truth I have no way of easily verifying the input or output power of the motor. Instead I rely on him valuing his good name and the testimony of others on this and other forums.

Things will I'm sure improve slowly. The move in supermarkets to state the cost per unit on items was a step in the right direction but even this falls down if you look closely.

In these days of youtube reviews by people connected with suppliers or getting freebies off them it is easy to be misled but to quote the X Files "the truth is out there".

Regards.

David.

I pay less than £2.00 a pair for my safety specs from Cromwell and usually buy 10 at a time. They have a lanyard to hang round your neck. I haven't bought any for some time now as I try to take good care of them.

These are my rules:-

1) Never put them on a bench. Always hang them by the lanyard.

2) Never rub the "glass" with fingers or rags.

3) If they need cleaning always use warm soapy water with minimal rubbing, Rinse and leave to dry or use compressed air if in a hurry.

4) When they get scruffy throw them in the bin.

All very obvious but it took a long time before I realised that I needed to be very strict about this.

Having looked through some very murky safety specs I often wonder how many accidents are caused by people who can't see what they are doing.

Regards.

David.

Hi,

I have a load of 10mm x 2mm bore bright red, I know it is silicon tubing and believe it is medical grade. If you could make that do you can have a couple of meters FOC.

Regards

David.

Edited By David Colwill on 07/10/2015 15:23:24

It looks to me like it's the backplate not fitting the camlock nose. To get an idea of this, label the tightening socets 1,2 & 3, set a dial gauge upon the face of the backplate slacken the backplate so it is loose (but won;t come off) then tighten up in sequence and note the reading. Slacken the cams until you can just free the plate and without turning the spindle tighten 2 3 1 and note the reading do the same but in order 3 1 2 and note the reading. If there is a difference it will indicate that the taper in the backplate is too small and that the backplate is being pulled into whichever cam is tightened first. Try the trick of removing the pins and seeing if you can feel it rocking, which is probably doable with the chuck separated from the backplate.

If this is the case it is worth checking all the chucks and the faceplate to make sure they are OK.

Good luck.

David.

Camlock chucks like any other need to have the mating surfaces carefully cleaned before fitting. After cleaning always wipe with your hand / fingers which are extremely sensitive to any particles that may have been missed by a rag.

If you still have problems, fit the chuck and shine a light from the back to check that the chuck is being pulled hard on to the register.

I have had more trouble with camlock fittings than with any other type (my bad luck I suspect), though once correctly fitted I find them very convenient. I had 2 denford easiturns that both had D 1-3 fittings but the two chucks were not accurately interchangeable.

I have found it useful in the past to remove the pins and offer the chuck up to see if it rocks on the taper although this isn't easy on big chucks.

As others have said the backplate is a key area as well but my past history would suspect the camlock.

I hope you get it sorted and look forward to finding out what is causing the problem.

Regards.

David.

Glad to see common sense prevail.

Looking forward to more bee keeping, astronomy and who knows what else.

Regards.

David.