Member postings for Novice

Thank you all for your comments and advice. Have bought CCMT inserts with holder and this indeed helps in making a bit less of a mess. However being pig-headed I still us coolant when turning very ligt cuts; but only 2 or 3 drops per minute. Swarf forms a nice stalagmite under the tool that can easely be brushed away and doing so it keeps a good view on the toolpoint. Cast-iron is another matter. I now use kitchen paper with magnets and a vacuum cleaner.

Jan

We all know turning brass is a very tricky thing to do because the chips fly all over the place. When using coolant fluid the chips stay in the driptray so don't fly into your hair, ears, clothing etc. Is there a good reason not to do it this way? I know there is no real reason to lubricate brass and cast iron. Is using coolant fluid on these materials a big sin??

Glued a little magnet to the bull-wheel of my S7 and used a bicycle speedometer to read the RPm. Ignor the dot in the reading. Suits me well for lathe and drill-press using a Omron VFD for both and a home made control panel.

Jan

Why not use soluble coolant oil. This certenly makes a mess also but not in your clothing. It keeps the tiny bits together.

Or is this idea a form of cursing in the church?? Yes I know most people are turning brass dry, but for what good reason??

cheers

Jan

Hi John,

I understand this one is not useable on my S7?

Jan

Hi all. At first I wish you a a proporus and healthy 2014.

Sorry for my late reaction, but I have been away for a couple of weeks.

As asked, herewith twoo photo´s of the tool. It was given with 6 inserts so much cheaper than HSS. I knoe it is a right hand tool and I have not ordered a rosewood box yet, because there are things I want to know first.

Is there a special reason fot the tilted insert and a rake of zero of the insert. This puzzels me because I only know of straight holders and inserts with a rake . I wonder how this message is getting on. I think I made a sort of mess of it. Hope for your reactions. Jan

I

Hi all,

The other day I was given a turning tool of Sanvik brand with the following code on it: PTGNR 1212 F11. There were also some inserts called TNMG 11 03 02.

I can find specifications, but that does not make sense to me.

It's so different from my SCLCR type. What can I do with it? Have not tried it yet.

Very curious for your comments.

Jan

Hi all,

I like to thank everyone who has been thinking and writing about my problem.

Having placed several pieces of thin metal under the back foot of the lathe's end (<2 mm) and some shimmimg under the front foot on the left it is now possible to turn a lenght of 150 mm and 30 mm diam mild steel parrallel minus 0,05 mm diam at the end.

This is fine enough for me and beside this I can keep it in mind when turning longer pieces. (seldom)

Thank you again and enjoy making chips!!

Regards

Jan

Hi, KWIL and Harold, thank you for your reactions.

First of all I apologise for having you mislead a bit. The protruding end of the bar I'm using is 150mm (6" long NOT 250.

Secondly I like to point out, that the shears are level (without the packing) At the tailstock side it's dead level and at the chuck's side you need 0,25 mm between the back-shear and the level (not an engineers level but a artillery level 0,3mm/m. Is's also level lenghtwise.

The lathe is mounted on a Myford industrial cabinet on a concrete floor. the cabinet is also level in lenght and in width.

not being happy with the situation I just removed the packing and (not having the bar removed from the chuck) I gave it another try and the diam at the end (not at the chuck but at the tailstock end) was 0,4 mm less than near to the chuck.

The manual says the bar should be between 4 and 6" and 1" in diam.
Maybe the 20 mm is not stif enough. In the week to come I'll try 30 mm (that's what I have in stock)

And KWIL I live in the Netherlands. S7`s are not so wide spread here as in the UK. There is nobody in my region I know having such a machine. I don't even know someone with a lathe.

Jan

Hi all,

I have a Myford S7 of 1962 for 7 years now and it performed well enough for me in doing small things and mostly repairs with nothing to do with model engineering. I never felt the need to check parralelisme (right word for it??) until yesterday. I read about it somewhere and I went to my shed chucked a piece of 20 mm mild steel 30 cm long and I turned the prothruding 25 cm with a light cut.After several times the cutting tool made a round bar of it and I stopped to measure. I found the diameter if the most left part of the bar being 0.3 mm smaller than neur the chuck. So, following the book, I had to raise the end of the lathe bed at the backside. So I did and things improved!! But in ordr to get the lathe turn parrallel I had to put abouy 3 mm of shimm under the beds foot.The front foot raised also that amount but at tihgtening I was worried about the amount of torque that is caused by tightening the fasteners. It is turning almost parrallel now with 0,02 mm less diam at the end. But I am still worried about the torque that is introduced in the lathe's bed.

What do you think about this. I hope not to come in my shrd and find the bed broken or something else horrible.

Please let me know what you think about this

Jan

Hi,

is there anyone outthere who knows where I can find an explanation for all those codes used for indexable tools, tips and holders.

The CCGT, CCMT, SCLCR, etc with following numbers what do they mean.

Looking forward to an answer.

Cheers,

Jan

I wonder how Tony Jeffree manages to get this Cowells so bright and shiny again.

Jan