Member postings for Geoffrey Wright

Hi Nigel,

From a question I posted on the FB 5 Inch Gauge site, from the responses it appears that my boiler is (could be?) 1986 or 1987. One member of the site had a boiler number RC713 built in 1986. Another had a boiler from Jan 1988 numbered RC801. Looks like there could have been some logic in the numbering system at that time.

Thanks for your reply.

Geoff

Hello Nigel,

I'm just looking for info on my Reg Chambers boiler and came across your post here. My Springbok boiler has the number RC766 on the backhead, lower right, but no date. It's a strange build for a Springbok (B1) as it has boiler feed clack bushes at the smokebox end! I've blanked these off, but wonder why someone would have a B1 boiler built with these fittings. I'll never know, LOL!

Regards

Geoff

Hello Steve,

I have just found your post as I am also trying to find info (build date??) for my own boiler. It's stamped on the backhead bottom right, with RC766, so I assume that it's a younger boiler than yours. I would assume that it's the build number and not the date and number. If I find out more, I'll let you know.

Regards from England

Geoff

Thank you Paul and Martin.

Strange, but as far as I can tell with Mk 1 Eyeball and a square, the pipe filling made by me appears to sit up square and straight, therefore the internal bush thread would appear to be OK. I will see if I can put a little undercut (if that's the right term?) on the threaded fitting. Perhaps it's not quite level and square at the finish of the threaded end, therefore leaving a bit of a tapered spot. Not sure, but no harm in trying. Will look at it tomorrow.

Geoff

Edited By Geoffrey Wright on 21/03/2021 15:03:05

Hi Gents,

The bush into the smokebox tubeplate in my boiler for the Regulator/Superheater flange was not, for some reason, fitted level when soldered by the boiler maker (a well-known maker, sadly no longer with us). This means that when I screw in the 1 1/4 inch bronze fitting into the vosh it leaves a gap of about 20 thou. on one side, and therefore doesn't filly tighten down on the flange.

My though is to use 2 soft copper washers, either soldered or Loctited together, and then filed down at an angle to produce a wedge-shaped washer that can be used to close the gap. This could be held on the boiler bush flange by Loctite to prevent it moving whilst tightening up the fitting.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this please? Sorry about the quality of the photo.

Thanks

Geoff

Good Morning Gents,

Hope you are all well and keeping busy!

Sorry to change the topic here, but you are all chatting about Clarkson fittings, and I wondered if any of you could assist me here. This is a photo (I just took from my PC screen as it had to be Jpeg!) of a Beaver Mill, which I have, with a drill chuck. which I assume is the standard Clarkson 30 Int taper. I usually use the Myford drill chuck, set into a Clarkson 2 MT fitting, but this then becomes quite long and limits the size of the drill I can use.

My question is, are these drill chucks available/obtainable anywhere? Obviously I'd like to get hold of one.

Thanks for reading this and apologies again for butting in here.

Geoff

Hi All,

OK, so I have removed the Dewhurst Switch and cleaned it up, removing the burrs from the pins etc. Put it all back together and onto the motor, and it works as it should:

My camera batteries failed just as I was going to take a pic of the motor. I've been able to swing the mill head around and there is what I assume is the capacitor on the outside - about 3 inches long by 1.5 inches diameter, sealed at base with what looks like pitch. The motor runs OK, but when I've run it for a few minutes, like this morning, it takes several minutes for the power to be restored. I assume now that the 'click' I hear is in fact the centrifugal switch. I don't think it's something that I can actually tackle, so I'll look around for someone that knows what they're doing, LOL! Even if I remove said motor, and remove the base plate I assume there's not much I could do at this stage to find the fault. Electronics are not my specialist subject I'm afraid.

Hi Les,

I have removed the switch (as we speak!) and there's a lot of pitting, which I will try to clean up, possibly in the lathe. There are 4 wires from the Dewhurst to the motor. As you look at it from the top left:Brown, next: Black, next: Blue (bottom peg not used). Then one Black to the 2nd peg on the right.

Just about to follow the Youtube video - Beachcomber Bob. Looked at it before, now I'll try to follow it, LOL!

Can't do anything more right now until I get it all re-assembled. Thanks for your response. I'll be back asp!

Geoff

Hi All,

Sorry to resurrect this post, but I am trying to find what might be the fault with my CUB motor, which appears to be the same as the one you are all describing. Not really able to access the plate, but I can read 'Cont' Rating Speed 1420, and possibly .5 HP, but too difficult to read. However...

My problem is that my old Beaver milling machine has this motor, controlled by a Dewhurst on/off switch (OK I know about the feelings of this switch, but that's not the issue her I hope). When I switch the Dewhurst to forward and carry out what I want to do ( usually just drilling a series of holes), switch off and when I want to start again all I get is a humming noise. I have to turn the Dewhurst switch to off, and usually have to wait for a minute or 2 until there's a 'click' and the Dewhurst will switch on again. I think the 'click' is from to motor, but, as I said, it's too difficult to access where it is.

Any thoughts or advice would be greatly received. thanks in advance.

Geoff

Thank you Norman,

I've read about the link belts, but as I have the Headstock spindle partially withdrawn now I have just ordered both belts from Lathe Spares.

Thanks for all the replies so far.

Geoff

Probably the best bet, buy both replacement belts. Thanks for the link.

Hi Phil,

Well, yes it is a 5 and not an 8. I checked it again after I saw the serial numbers with 8 for the reason you suggest! As my S7 has cup oilers I assumed it was not a very early model.

What has prompted me to ask about the numbers is that I need a new headstock drive belt, having removed both spindles. In his Myford Manual, Ian Bradley states on page 10 that the drive belt should be 23 inch inside length. On another Forum I found 33.5 inches quoted, which I bought, and of course is totally wrong. The existing belt is about 28.5 inches (and this has no doubt stretched over the years (30 in my ownership). And I've been told by an 'auction site' supplier that the correct belt is an 'A' 29.5 belt. I'm tempted to purchase a 28.5 belt because, otherwise, the motor-to-countershaft belt will be too small!

Any thoughts please!

Geoff

Sorry to re-open this topic but I am a little confused over the Serial Number of my own Super 7 Lathe. The number is stamped at the tailstock end, like most others, and it is SK 52518, which seems to be much earlier than those on this Forum beginning with an 8! It's the standard Super 7, in grey with a fitted gearbox.

Can anyone explain this very low number please? Thanks. Geoff