Member postings for Ian P

I have some blue plastic storage barrels that use these V band type clamps but nobody seems to make them in stainless steel. A pity, as they would otherwise be ideal.

Ian P

Well spotted and thanks Keith.

I've had few Googling sessions over several days and completely missed that company. I will contact them on Monday and enquire what their minimum order value is as I only want two or three of these clamps.

Ian P

I want to hold two large disks of plastic (acrylic and Delrin) one of which has an O-ring set into its mating face. Whilst its possible to have an array of fixings around the periphery my preferred method would be to use a custom V band clamp.

I say custom because I cannot find any supplier of a non rusting clamp about 400mm diameter. They only seem available up to about 150mm.

V band clamps usually have sloping internal faces to axially compress the two flanges together but in my application the O-ring is very soft and a ring rolled out of extruded 'U' shaped aluminium channel (say in four separate quadrants) would be perfect.

I can fine tune the thicknesses of the two disks to use a channel section about 20mm internal width and about 10mm deep but I'm looking for a method I could I use to 'roll' or bend into a circle?

Image shows a typical V band clamp (On mine if the joint faces are all parallel then there is no need for any great tension to hold it closed).

Sorry for the long description, I'm looking for ideas really

Ian P.

Assuming the axle is hollow (has a hole all the way through) and the end caps or whatever are purely decorative then my suggestion would be to have an internal tension spring stretched between the (loose fit) caps to hold them in place.

To remove or install just ensure the spring has enough stretch so you can pull one cap out to access its hook.

Ian P

Big big difference between industrial speed controllers and these sewing machine motors!

Its a while since I have used one but a system component like the KBE motor drivers comes complete with a detailed user manual with probably pages of installation information with more than a few carrying safety warnings. KBE driver units are intended to be installed in full accordance with KBE's documentation. I do know that KB sell a piggy back PCB that gives Galvanic isolation to the i/o signals.

Whilst there is s CE logo on this sewing machine motor there is none on the controller itself and I very much doubt it could ever be made to comply.

Ian P

I have now had a first look at the 'Husuper 550w sewing machine servo motor' (£91) that came this morning via Amazon. Nowhere on the box, leaflet or the kit itself does it show the motor rating so I'm not really sure what I have.

First impression is favourable, plugged it together and powered it up and its very quiet. The supplied speed control device might be fine for a sewing machine foot pedal but its entirely unsuitable for use on a lathe or mill as it is. There is no conventional potentiometer but instead uses magnet and Hall effect sensor. I have not investigated the circuitry yet but need to put a warning here in case anyone is thinking of replacing the Hall sensor with a pot.

These sewing machine servo motors operate direct off the mains and have no isolation. In particular the Hall sensor (inherently a low voltage device) and its associated wiring could be at mains potential

Ideally I would like to have stop, start, forward, reverse and speed control on a pendant (as a typical VFD installation) so will look at ways of modifying the control circuitry to add galvanic isolation (and NVR too).

Ian P

Thanks for taking pictures and posting the manual, its contents are better than I expected.

Earlier today I ordered a HuSuper 550W from Amazon (less than £100) and will post my experience here when I get it.

Ian P

Philip, I'm thinking that one of the industrial sewing machine motors would be ideal to put on my X1 mill. Please could you say which actual model you bought as there seem to be two or three different versions.?

I wonder if any have adjustable accel/decel times like a VFD.....

Ian P

'View all Topics' does not appear on my screen from 'Latest Posts'. OK I'm being picky but the mention of FAQ piqued my interest.

By default I set my view of the forum to 'Latest posts' and have never yet looked for post by the individual forum titles. I'd never come across the FAQ's and I suppose if the this website's own built in search does not know of their existence its unlikely they would contain anything very useful

Ian P

I've used this site for years but never noticed any FAQ's. I've just tried to find 'all thread' too and failed.

Putting FAQ into the search box does not produce any results either.

Ian P

(re Frances IOM post above)

Edited By Ian P on 03/03/2022 17:35:42

I'm a bit mystified by this thread. If the OP's arbor is MT2 and its drawbar thread is only slightly skewed then my solution would be to use a tap (same thread and pitch) as the existing thread and manually recut the thread with the tap 'coerced' so its cuts mainly in a direction opposite to the existing skewed thread.

The resulting tapped hole might be a bit sloppy on the drawbar but the drawbar to arbor fixing does not need any great strength.

The suggestions of boring, sleeving or fitting inserts seem out of proportion in relation to the problem.

In any event how does one hold a Morse adapter so that the small end is secure enough to single point bore, yes is possible but is it worth it, (assuming its soft enough to bore)

Ian P

Well, even if no one else is, I'm impressed with Clive's efforts. My main observation is that leather is far more amenable to a sharp knife than soft rubber is.

I think 40 Shore is quite soft so holding it between plates or a template against a cutting board is going to deform it so the resultant profile might require a lot of experiments to get the desired result (especially if the corner surface is to be part of a cylinder (rather than part of a conical surface).

Producing the part exactly to the drawing in the OP's first posting (even in smallish quantities) is a run of the mill task to the right waterjet or laser cutting companies. There are companies that specialise in 'micro' water and laser cutting but its possible that accuracy the OP requires is within capabilities of the companies that make custom gaskets.

I think there are desktop lase and water jet cutting machines on the market so the OP could make his own parts.

Ian P

Whilst I have not used them for a few years, the 'Non Standard Socket Screw' company (in Birmingham I think) might be able to help. I have purchased custom made batches of SS and HT SHCS in ridiculously long lengths and the prices were definitely reasonable at the time.

Link below

Ian P

Non Standard Screws

As others have said the VFD needs a three phase motor.

Some inverters have features that allow the display to show, output frequency, load current, input voltage, supply current, motor RPM and umpteen other parameters (only one at a time though). Some also allow the user to 'scale' the readout on the display to account for the belt or gearing ratio but again that will only works at one fixed ratio.

I have my VFD's set to display output frequency so I could estimate the spindle speed relative to normal 50Hz. On my Fobco drill an old 'squarish' Hoover motor is quite happy on anything between 4Hz and 200Hz

Ian P

No need to apologise to the chaps, but please could you clarify what you were trying to say?

Ian P

Nothing wrong with squirrel cage motors especially if they are three phase and driven by a VFD, reliable too!

Ian P

From the OP's own description of his electronic skills I agree with earlier replies in that repairing this controller is bets left to experts or just replaced.

Coincidentally I have just com across an article in 'Electronic Weekly' that has some information on these types of speed control (this one on an CMD10 (Seig X1).

Discussion on similar (or same) controller

Ian P

Edited By Ian P on 06/02/2022 22:17:51

Apologies for not creating a sensibly usable link

Edited By Ian P on 06/02/2022 22:19:05

Going back to the beginning of this thread the OP stated that the drive shaft got (or gets) 'wrecked' under some fault condition. It would be interesting to know what the resulting damage is, i.e. whether pins sheared, the shaft getting bent or something else.

What actually causes the damage to the bearing support bracket? If the pinion shaft carrying the Hooke joint is was well supported then the outer diameter of the Hooke joint would not be able to leave those score marks on the casting.

My suspicion is that the root cause of the damage to the shaft and roller clutch is that Bendix device is not performing correctly dues to the extra mass (and some friction) caused by the extension shaft hardware. I would also assume the geared high performance starter motor has solenoid engagement but the solenoid too will not be designed for the additional mass.

IMHO I think the Bendix and pinion should be close to the ring gear and motor shaft extension relieved of any axial movement.

Ian P

If the lathe is unplugged (therefore not connected to the mains) it does not need to be earthed! Its just a large lump of metal.

Ian P