Member postings for Maurice

It appeared to, yes.

I have just watched a video of the casting of the rear wheels for the replica traction engine "Onward". It is very interesting, but there was just music on the sound track. I could follow most of it except when it came to pouring the iron. First, a small crucible was used to pour a small quantity of iron into the mould, about the volume of two house bricks, then a much larger crucible was used to pour enough to completely fill the mould. Can anyone tell me what the reason for this was please, and is there a version of the video with a comentary?

Thanks for that Hopper. that tells me all I need to know. Great!

Maurice

This thread reminds me of when I was teenager; a friend was experimenting with mixing his own two stroke mixture for his model aero-engine. The lubricating component used was "3 in 1" general lubricating oil. He got the engine running, then tried varying the ratio of oil to fuel. He fumbled something, then dropped it. the engine continued to run on neat "3 in1", Its was very slow and lumpy, but it was going round! Experiments were discontinued. This is not meant as a recommendation.

That sounds a promising idea. I believe I already have an alloy lap the right size that I could use. It hadn't occur to me until you mentioned it . Thanks.

Now I understand. Thank you. I think I see my way forward now. Thanks for all the contributions

Thanks for that Sandgrounder. This leads to my next question; what is an m5 fitting pin, and how is it used. Also, on the "Ondrives" site there is a paragraph that starts. "Re-oiling. After machining of the bearing......... " What sort of machining are they referring to? If it is sharp, is reaming not machining? I'm struggling here!

Thanks for that Swarfmaker. I am now a little concerned. The shaft is exactly to size, and I can just about get the bushes to go on, straight from the packet! Any compression from being inserted into the casting will,I think, make it impossible. They were not expensive, so I am now considering making my own bushes from bronze bar. Fortunately I have access to another lathe.

I have a six inch four jaw, that, from new, felt a bit odd sometimes if the the jaws were moved far. Eventually I removed the back plate and then the countersunk plate covering the works. The stuff that came out, disguised as grease, was all gritty when rubbed between the fingers. Awful stuff! It was almost as if it had been sabotaged. All fine now with new grease. Take it apart; you don't know what you may find. It would be quite difficult to damage it in the process and you will know that its all clean.

Thanks, will do.

I have just finished pulling the old bushes from the casting. Quite a tight fit. The new ones just about wring onto the shaft as they are. I assume that they will get smaller when I press them into the casting. Time for the expanding reamer? Or do I have to lap them?

Thanks gents for your help. I was considering putting a couple of oilers with sprung flaps on the two shaft bearings. However, there is a third one mounted on the hub of the cone pulley, and obviously it rotates when the clutch is engaged. Not sure what to do here. I thought of making a short threaded reservoir with a threaded bung to keep the oil in. The new parts have all arrived this morning. The bushes, clearly labeled "Oilite" show no signs of being impregnated with oil, not to the touch, no smears on the inside of the bag, and no odour. So, do I soak them? This is what we did with quite small ones that we used when I was working. They were kept under oil in glass jars until needed, but I was never sure that it was something that one of my bosses thought was a good idea.

Sorry to be a nuisance about this, but I want to get it right. I cannot drip oil into the housing as Hopper suggests, as the oiling points all have oil nipples fitted. Will oil from an oil gun permeate the "Oilite" bushes fast enough to get enough oil through in a reasonable time? There are two bushes fitted at the pulley end of the shaft with a small space between, so this fine, but I have just removed the bush from the cone pulley. It is "Oilite" bush, and has had an inexpertly drilled hole put in it under the nipple. Also I am so far unable to find a sealed ball race of the correct diameters, and only 5/16" wide, so it will be getting another open one. This is fine, but what should I lubricate it with. The stuff in the old one has stayed in for about fifty years!

Thanks Hopper, should be up and running again soon now. Cheers

Maurice

I have four "Oilite" bushes on the way for my countershaft. Do I have to prepare them in any way before insertion? Someone told me to soak them in the lubricating oil prior to fitting. Also, I intend to change the ball race. It has retained its grease very well over the years, but I would like to fit a sealed one. Is there a problem with this? Thanks again.

Maurice

Thanks Dennis, I intended to change the ball race anyway. The pulley gradually moved along the shaft as I tapped the other end; once I got the shaft out I managed to get it off. The ball race is not loose in the pulley at all. I just meant that, while a very tight fit on the shaft, it can be move along it without using silly amounts of force. Is it the ball race that I am damaging by driving the shaft the wrong way? It looks like an ordinary radial thus type, so I can't see what difference it makes. I have the manual thanks.

Maurice

As I said I had to drive it to the left as I could not shift the drive pulley. I still can't see what I am supposed to have damaged. The shaft is smooth and parallel, with machine indents for the grub screws. There are no burs on it and it slides nicely through the bushes. The only part it has to be driven through is the ball race in the cone pulley, and even that isn't that tight. The worst wear that I can see on the shaft is at the pulley end; it's about four tenths undersize. It seems to be the bushes that are worn. I shall order four more tonight. Thanks for your advice gents

Maurice

This very strange. The shaft is unmarked except for some polishing where the bushes were, and is completely parallel for its whole length. I assume we are talking about the same thing; it's the type of clutch which is an expanding ring inside the cone pulley. Apart from adjusting it little twice in fifty years, it has given no trouble. Since the shaft is not worn, I now do not know whether to replace bushes with bushes, or change to needle rollers. I have found both the size I need on line.

Maurice

Thanks for that gents. The assembly shows no sign of having been bashed. It came to pieces fairly easily, but I could not remove the pulley, so I had to drive the shaft out,with a hide hammer, towards the left. If this is the direction that DMR means by "towards the headstock", what damage am I supposed to see?

Maurice

After delaying for far too long, I have finally dismantled my Myford Super 7 counter shaft, early pattern, with a view to renewing the needle roller bearings. It is very noisy, worse when the belts are tightened properly, and practically unusable on the higher speed range. To my surprise, it does not have the needle roller bearings as shown in the manual, but plain bronze bushes. The O/D of the shaft is 3/4" and the bores in the casting 1". Assuming that I can get the bushes out, should the needle bearings be a direct replacement? I have found some in stock on the internet. How should I go about pressing them in please?Any advise welcome.

Maurice