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Member postings for James B

Here is a list of all the postings James B has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Cutting male threads
13/11/2009 14:59:42
Already have my day pass approved by SWMBO!
13/11/2009 13:59:47
Hi Duncan,
 
Also as a relative newcomer, I purchased a copy of 'The Model Engineers Handbook' by Tubal Cain - this is a lot cheaper than Machinerys Handbook, and has loads of useful stuff in there that is appropriate for our hobby - thread information, tool cutting angles, cutting speeds & feeds, heat treatments, etc, etc.
 
Only problem is trying to keep it clean in the workshop!!
 
James

Edited By James Burden on 13/11/2009 14:00:27

Thread: Painting a Restored Machine
13/11/2009 13:54:46
Hi,
 
I have an Elliot 10M shaper that I am in the process of restoring to its former glory - can any one offer advise on a good paint to use for this and / or other machines? Also, a company that can supply of course.
 
I have looked for 'machine paint' but without success - maybe I am looking in the wrong place..?
 
I am not overly concerned with using the correct 'original' paint, but do want to make sure that is is appropriate and won't need doing again in a years time!
 
Any help gratefully recieved!!
 
James
 
Thread: Slot Milling
25/09/2009 11:20:55
Hi,
 
Glad to see it's not just me. I am making slow progress on a Clayton wagon (thanks to help from various people on here) but the workshop projects are building up....
 
I've got an Adcock & Shipley 1ES mill, and an old bridgeport M type head that I need to get fitted onto the 1ES.
 
I've also recently bought a very old cast iron linisher ( I believe it is a 'Brooks' ) - was an old three phase machine, a very well engineered machine - but needs stripping, cleaning and rebuilding - paid £40 from ebay, will be a fantastic tool when it is done...
 
Also bought a Startrite Bandit bandsaw and grafted a reduction gearbox on it to convert it to a metal cutting bandsaw...
 
I would like to get the Mill, the bandsaw and the linisher operational, so I can make a rivet tool to finish the Clayton chassis... Oh and Harold Halls grinding rest to sharpen the tools used on the above.
 
If only I didn't have to go to work, I could get so much done...!!!! 
 
James 
Thread: Clayton Wagon Leaf Springs
17/09/2009 21:31:57
Hi Phil,  
Thanks for the Hewsons link, never heard of them before, but seems like a good site for future reference - they seem to be well priced as well.
 
Hi Nick,
Good to hear your thoughts here - my main concern with making springs out of mild steel was that they may flatten out and not return to the original setting under the weight of the driver - but if you have not had any problems, it doesn't sound like a problem. I have only recently subscribed to ME, could you tell me when your article was published, as I would like to have a look at that.
 
Thanks again,
 
James 
16/09/2009 13:02:11
Hi Colin,
 
Thanks for your reply - do you know anywhere I could find out about Heat Treating spring steel? I've never worked with Spring Steel before, I am assuming you need to anneal before working / setting the radius, but do you then need treat the finished springs again before use?
 
Thanks,
 
James
15/09/2009 19:55:48
Hi,
 
I am currently building a 2" Clayton Wagon, and according to the drawings the leaf springs are to be built up with 16 swg  x 1/2" strips. The drawings do not specify Spring Steel, and is shown in the chassis arrangement, all called out as BMS.
 
This may be a silly question, but should these be spring steel? Has anyone else built a Clayton, and if so what was used for the springs, and how have they performed?
 
Thanks is advance
 
James 
Thread: Machining Castings
16/07/2009 13:15:01
Hi David,
 
Thanks for the photos, these have helped a lot. I am looking forward to the series in the magazine - just useful to see methods used in tacking different operations, which can be applied to other projects.
 
Thanks again.
 
James
15/07/2009 09:23:00
Hi David,

Sorry, by soleplate, I was referring to the part that sits on top of the base, which provides a mounting for the cylinder and crank bearings..?

Thanks

James 
14/07/2009 17:20:20
Thanks David,
 
I would be interested in seeing the soleplate setup as well (for the 10H) as this seems to be the part with the most setup requirements (at least on my equipment).
 
Thanks.
 
James
12/07/2009 11:43:10
Thanks all for your advice, I will give this a try, going deeper with the first cut. With the chamfer on the cutter, do you mean the actual cutting edge of the slot drill / end mill, or around the 'circumference' of the cutter?
 
I look forward to the series on the 10H / 10V - will be interesting to see how certain operations are approached, compared to how I have done.
 
Thanks again.
11/07/2009 22:11:12
Hi, 

Have been working on a Stuart 10H, in particular the soleplate.  When machining the castings, there seems to be hardspots in the casting - some areas cut nicely but others don't. 

For example, when I tried to machine the top of the crank bearings, I used a brand new end mill, and also tried a new slot drill. It was rigidly set up on my Mill, and I checked the speeds to use (around 500 rpm for 7/16 cutter?). I took the lightest of cuts first of all, but both cutters were blunted almost straightaway, and it just sounded wrong - cutters rubbing / squealing. After abandoning the job, I tried to file the casting roughly down to size, but it was like filing hardened steel.
 

Am I doing something wrong? Should I be preparing the casting in some way before machining? Do castings vary, i.e. could there be hardspots in it?

Any help gratefully received...! 
Thread: Painting Castings
11/07/2009 21:56:07
Hi Jason,

Thanks for your notes, I was thinking machining first was a better route, but wasn't sure if the rim would clean up properly afterwards. If it turns out anything like your photo, I'll be more than happy!

James 
Thread: RLE Engine
11/07/2009 21:53:22
Hi Jason,

Thanks - guess I should do a search first...

James 
Thread: Blued steel plate
11/07/2009 09:13:58

I recently needed a small amount of 1.6mm steel sheet for a project - I went to my local industrial steel supplier, and bought a 4' square sheet for £10 - much cheaper than buying in smaller quantities, and then you have a stock for future use.

Thread: RLE Engine
11/07/2009 09:10:46
Hi All,
 
Does anyone know where I can obtain a set of castings for an RLE hit and miss engine? These used to be supplied by Alyn Foundry, but I gather these are no longer in business, as I have not had any replies from messages sent?
 
James
Thread: Painting Castings
11/07/2009 09:07:28
Hi All,
 
Quick question regarding the best method of painting castings. I am building a Stuart 10H, and am ready to start the flywheel, but am usure wether to paint first, and then machine to get a nice sharp edge where the paint finishes, or machine first then paint, to avoid marking the paint during clamping, etc.
 
Is there a preferred method for this?
 
James
Thread: Rivets and Riveting
08/07/2009 14:35:19
Hi All,
 
Thankyou for your tips - some more practise is yielding good results, particuarly with using the straight punch for getting into the areas that have a lot of rivets in close proximity.
 
My only other question would be why when I show my wife my practise rivetting, she doesn't seem as impressed as me?
 
James
Thread: Model Engineer Page Count increase and free plans
08/07/2009 14:21:54
I do think that projects that are made (where possible) from stock materials rather than castings are a good idea, as this puts the project within most peoples means, and as the plans are from the magazine, it is nice to feel that you can undertake a project without spending a fortune just to get started.
 
I am picking up the hobby again after a few years, and my son is showing lots of interest - how about something simple that a father / son could build together to kindle the younger model engineer's enthusiasm?
 
Another idea would be a cutter / grinder from bar stock? I have seen something like this is the past, and would be useful for most workshops?
 
James
 
 
Thread: Rivets and Riveting
06/07/2009 22:08:54
Thanks for your advice - sounds like a good approach - especially when you have rivets very close together. I will give this a try.

Do you have a formula for the rivet length, or is this just trial and error (as I have used this far). 

Has anyone tried heating rivets prior to forming, like in full size practise?  
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