Here is a list of all the postings Crocadillopig has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Warco Super - Major Vario inaccuracy |
15/07/2012 13:22:39 |
Hello Geoff I own a WM-16 which has served me well. As far as I know these machines are very similar in all but size. On mine there is a facility to angle the head to 90 degrees either side of vertical, if this is out of alignment it would cause the type of error you have described. To check this place a cranked bar with a DTI fitted in the chuck and, with the table centralised and in contact, swing the DTI to its full extent and check the reading at both extremities of its travel. If the reading is not the same amount then the head is half that amount out of true and should be adjusted. I beleive later models had a locating pin to align the head, this may have been machined incorrectly or be a loose fit. Regards Russ |
Thread: How much pressure is an arbour press capable of |
12/06/2012 20:55:18 |
Posted by frank brown on 10/06/2012 20:31:05: "Some one gave me an arbour press that is labelled "1ton". the interesting thing is that the casting is splayed (arbour not at right angles to the bedplate). Any one got an idea how to remachine the bed to be at right angles to the arbour. its about 5" diam and needs a good 1mm cut right across it. The problem is that the cutter has to rotate on an arc of > 6" radius to get under the arbour bearing tube."
Frank, If it is the type I am thinking of, wouldn't it be easier to remove the ram cover and ram, then mill the back face of the guideway square to the base and then pack with parallel shims if required. Regards Russ |
Thread: What are we building? |
07/06/2012 10:03:06 |
Hi David "I am not sure putting the same photo in every issue of a series is a good use of space." I don't think that premise stands up to well when you consider that the current series on 'Rodean' contains a considerable size photo of the locomotive (not the completed model) in every instalment. Also their is a tendency to leave a blank 45mm margin below the authors photo. I don't wish to appear awkward or to usurp the layout persons skills, I merely started this thread as a constructive comment . Regards Russ |
04/06/2012 00:14:19 |
Hi David Whist reading the current copy of ME it occurred to me that when publishing a construction series it would be helpful if there were a thumbnail picture of the finished model similar to the Authors in each issue to give people an incentive to try it, to refresh ones enthusiasm for the project, or for the casual buyer who purchases a copy in the middle of the series. I know it was done for the Stuart Triple many years ago and it certainly kept me at it . What do you think? Regards |
Thread: Power switch for Myford ML speed 10 |
21/11/2011 11:51:40 |
Hi Mike
I fitted the same switch as you from Axminster tools to my ML10 a few years ago and have never had a problem. It is not wired for reverse but much like Norman I have never found the need for it.
Regards
Russ |
Thread: Consort, Double Crank Triple Expansion Engine |
08/10/2011 23:12:37 |
>How strange, I could swear we got through top the semis. Boyo
![]() I just knew I shouldn't have written that !!
Russ |
08/10/2011 15:19:40 |
Tony/Neil
Thanks for the replies chaps, I have just purchased a set of castings for the Consort from Reeves 2000, taking advantage of their 10% discount offer, all I have to do now is a 350 mile round trip (groan) to pick them up from Leamington Spa model exhibition. The drawings are rather poor and incorporate other engines using compatible parts I therefore intend to re-draw the relevant parts to reduce confusion and also highlight any shortcomings. Whilst I am confident my mechanical skills with my trusty ML10 and Warco VM16 will carry me through I have no knowledge of this type of HP/IP cylinder and valve arrangement, and as Tony says, which are the critical dimensions and their alignment, therefore, although I do have a cunning plan using my mill and DRO I don't want to start hacking metal until I've covered all eventuallities hence my request for information from the knowledgeable. As for my "Stuart" Neil unfortunately it has suffered at the expense of the Rugby World Cup (just watched them lose), Grand Prix ,Holidays, Beer festivals etc but it is closer to completion so thanks for the encouragement.
Russ |
14/07/2011 00:04:38 |
Hi All
Whilst browsing the Reeves 2000 website I spotted this engine which I think would make an unusual and attractive Project to start when I finally finish My Stuart Triple. I have already purchased the plans but what I really want to know is if anyone has previously attempted it before and are there any pitfalls. I must admit the Stuart has stretched me but I have got to the slide valve stage and on completion can start the process of assembly and timing. This was done with the aid of build notes from articles in old copies of M.E. and I will hopefully finish it this summer. Are there any such notes on the Consort or do I take a Leap into the Unknown?
Regards
Russ |
Thread: Brass Shell Case |
14/01/2010 15:15:04 |
Hi Chris
Funny you should say that, I've got one in my workshop (and its staying there). I use it as a stowage for longish lengths of bar stock. As a stoker in the Navy I spent many an off watch period making ashtrays from 4.5" shell cases after high seas firings and before Jennys Side Party got hold of them. The first thing I always did, on the advice of the gunners was to remove the primer as you don't know what, if any, residue may still be attached. I always found the best way was with a hammer and punch as you may remove a broken stud. As for cutting to size I had access to a Harrison but I still did the initial cutting to length with a hacksaw, and bearing in mind the length you intend, after cutting get a decent file out and trim it to the line It will take less time than it has for me to one finger type this!
Regards Russ |
Thread: Marking out |
22/06/2009 11:55:17 |
Hi All
Back in the sixties we used Marking Blue and Copper Sulphate, the latter was far superior for fine work, etching the workpiece with a light brown patina and didn't wear away with the use of coolants. I believe it was made up of copper sulphate crystals and sulphuric acid ! My question is what was its composition and in what ratios ? Also is it available commercially in small quantities, if not where can I obtain the ingredients.
Hope someone can help. Russ
Edited By Russell Wigley on 22/06/2009 11:57:37 |
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