Member postings for bricky

I have acute arthritus in my thumbs, I can sympathise with you as I have difficulty in turning my rotary table and had to make a 4" hand wheel to relieve the pain.Picking up small items and hand tapping is also a problem,turning feed screws is also painful.I love this hobby,if I did not I would give it up but I will not be beat.All the best to every one and stay safe.

Frank

My old S7 1957 vintage had a regrind at Myfords in 09 and was 317GBP so given inflation in 11 years I'm not surprised at that price.Well worth the expense and it made a new lathe out of it.

Frank

Money for nothing ,this programe lets people believe this is possible.Have you tried to get scrap from your tip.I got a block of steel 6'*6'*6" from the tip but had to pay the operator 10 pounds to sneak it into my boot without the foreman noticing.The presenters time at the tip is not considered in the costing or the travel involved,so don't kid us it's money for nothing.

I always use nitrile gloves on the mill and lathe,but on the bandsaw I use a pair of very thick industrial leather gloves which have saved me on occasion.When I used to work I was using a 9" disc cutter on brickwork when finished it was idleing to stop when inatention let it catch my wrist, just missing my artery it ground a groove but didn't bleed ,then I noticed a fibre off the wheel sticking out,this fibre had travelled under the skin nearly around my wrist.I pulled it out with a pair of pliers.A very close shave and another lesson learned.

Frank

Tank you all, I was feeding to slow and rpm not fast enough ,it is great to have such a quick response and a great forum.

Frank

That is correct Jason it is 40mm.I have been milling 2" flat mild steel.

I have a arc euro three insert face mill cutter and using on a SX3 mill.I have been taking .5mm cuts and with new inserts and the head wags side to side at 400 rpm.Is the cut to deep and the feed to fast.I find that my flycutter at 75mm sweep at.5mm and 400rpm creates barely a murmer at the head ,can someone put me right.Feed for both was 1" per minute.

Frank

I have used japanese pull saws for years but they were soon used only for bench work as site work was to demanding on the upper arm muscle when cutting tmber.I could see the same being true on a large hacksaw but it would not pose a problem on a junior one.

Frank

Back in the mid 50's we used to buy dried peas from the seed merchants and take them to the Saturday flicks.The manager finally told us that they were banned as repeated firing at the film was damaging the screen.The Saturday morning flicks were 6d .

Frank

A superb looking engine Brian.

Frank

I used leather from an old handbag strap and if the leather is scarfed it glues flat and it can be cut very fine.

Frank

Mine has a straight bore,so I made a fitting with a threaded nose for my myford.I found that the chuck was not supported enough as it did not sit on the table,I overcame this with a circular ring just a thou, or two above the end of the register of the adaptor and this made for a ridgid set up.I put a centre dot in the adaptor whilst being machined and this helps when centreing the RT.

Frank

The helpful response has made my mind up and I have just bought a new mitutoya lever dti.My old one was second hand bought from a retired turner which came with attachments that didn't fit.A pig in a poke,I felt so stupid that I hadn't tested it before buying that I didn't complain.

Frank

I have been considering buying one.I have been using a laser and sticky pin until now and would like opinions on the co-axial indicator before I buy.

Frank

I have never heated my workshop as I am worried about temperature fluctuations .I use a dehumidifier overnight and I have never had any rust in the 38 years since I built it .I had been used to working on building sites for 50 years and when I first started we were traveling in open backed lorries with a wooden tilt on .The furthest we traveled like this was 40 miles one certantly did not look foreward to the journey home.They don't work in the frost now,we had metal buckets tied to the handrails with deisel in the bottom and a piece of sack and ignighted and these kept the frost above the work.

Frank

Thank you both for the information ,I now know what to order and do.

Frank

What grade of graphite is required to make a piston rod and piston for a Jan Ridders coffee cup engine.Also is it easy to machine and thread.Whiich supplier is the best to get it from.

Frank

Thanks for the advice given and I will continue to get it going, but it is doing my traps in.

Frank

I have been trying to make it work and remade parts and had to reseal the diplacer after the first failed attempt.I decided that I would bed the plastic ring on beds of mastic and it has sealed a treat.I found that the the engine would still not turn over but was making an attempt.I decided to leave it overnight and rebalance the flywheel.when I tried to spin it over it wouldn't budge.when I pulled the displacer piston rod up whith some force I found the piston rod was rusting I think.Does mastic cause this on steel and if so will a phospher bronze rod run OK in a phospher bronze bearing.And I thought this engine was going to be easy.

Frank

Hi Nick,

That is something I will use in future, thank you for the chart.

Frank