Member postings for ega

Is the register the taper behind the thread as opposed to the parallel portion behind the taper?

According to lathes.co.uk:

"During the 1940s a number of improvements were made to functionality and durability by including the use of heavier stands with cast-iron box plinths beneath headstock and tailstock and offering as extras, various features including higher speed ranges to take advantage of carbide-tipped tools..." [my emphasis]

so there may be a practical way of increasing your top speed without damaging what sounds like a fine machine.

Thank you.

Nick Palliser:

If you give some indication of your location a volunteer may be more readily forthcoming.

So am I, and (assuming real time video) it does rather make the point about speed of working. His finish is essentially from the tool, requiring a minimum of sanding. By contrast, an article in Fine Woodworking from May 1982 entitled "Woodturning on a Metal Lathe" described how forms produced by "twirling a couple of cranks" were finished by sanding from 60 (!) to 600 grit.

It looks like a shop-made item ie a one off by an individual worker.

Neil Wyatt:

Thank you.

I think I have noticed in the past that after viewing an embedded video other, unwanted, videos are offered; is there a way to avoid this?

Also, getting a satisfactory finish on plastic may require a sharper cutter.

Neil Wyatt:

Thank you for taking the trouble to upgrade my link (Japanese fountain pen making); would you please remind me how this is done?

Good to know that it has been of interest, and not just on the chasing point.

Nathan Sharpe

All other things being equal, a woodturner ie a worker using handheld chisels and gouges will remove material faster than a metal lathe operator.

The woodturner can achieve a surprising degree of parallelism but, of course, if greater accuracy is required the slide rest will give a better result.

I was not clear what you meant by "shallow" forms.

Clive Foster:

Thanks for the interesting and useful background information.

I agree with SOD about the muddle. A random quote from the same B&S catalogue:

"The difference between the Stubs' Iron Wire Gage and the Stubs' Steel Wire Gage should be constantly borne in mind, the first being commonly known as the English Standard Wire, or Birmingham Gage, and which designates the Stubs' soft wire sizes, and the second being used in measuring drawn steel wire or drill rod of Stubs' make."

A makeshift tube-measuring mic can readily be contrived by furnishing the standard item with a precision ball and short length of tube to retain it to the anvil.

Edited By ega on 19/10/2018 14:41:48

Extract from B&S catalogue:

For anyone interested in seeing hand chasing, here is a link to a fascinating video about Japanese fountain pen making:

Edited By ega on 19/10/2018 12:07:47

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 19/10/2018 19:29:05

The book advice for threaded holes is to countersink before threading; I admit I often forget and have to put up with the result.

Michael Gilligan:

I had made the same assumption. Deburring the end of a tube cut square is, of course, easy enough and there are specialised tools (eg for plumbers' copper pipe) for the job.

Axminster have a fancy deburring tool for their PGS system on their website.

Edited By ega on 18/10/2018 16:10:58

I had occasion to cut the tip off a step drill and afterwards it occurred to me that, mounted in a suitable handle, it would make an effective countersink/deburring tool:

It works best, of course, when the preceding step is a good fit in the hole being deburred.

On the tricky question of deburring holes in tubes, I suppose a CNC machine could do the job; I just make do with a small half round scraper.

Clive Foster:

PM underway.

Plus 1 for the LED tubes - a revelation.

Contents of Vol II: (Second edition)

1. Grinding Operations and Machines
2. Broaching Operations
3. Milling Cutters and Methods
4. Milling Machines
5. Planing, Shaping and Slotting Machines
6. Engineering Machine Tools
7. Special-Purpose Machines
8. Plate and Bar Working Machines
9. Overhauking and Adjusting Machine Tools
10. Millwork and Machinery Installation
11. Templates,Jigs and Fixtures
12. Gearing and Gear Cutting
13. Engineer's Drawings

I had better add that my edition is described as "new and revised" and I have assumed this means the second edition. Oddly, the spine is in Arabic (2) but the page references are in Roman (II) - go figure!

Edited By ega on 11/10/2018 22:43:59

Edited By ega on 11/10/2018 22:45:33