Member postings for Gone Away

Commercial shears do indeed work with a slight gap between the blades (as do punches etc). As I recall, about 10% of the thickness of the material being cut is the rule-of-thumb.

I have a 12" shear/roll/bender and it has adjustment screws to set the blade clearance. And if adjustment screws are provided, presumably they are intended to be used. You didn't mention it, Dias, but does your 8" machine have the adjustment screws?

It's possible, if the machine is made for only very thin material, that they simply don't bother with the blade clearance but thicker sheets are likely to give rather high loads.

That said, it can be pretty fiddly to get an optimal setting on these little machines (also depends a bit on how hard/soft the material is).

At $228 a year for the two paper mags ($142 digital) , it didn't take long thinking about it. I don't think my interest runs that high.

No, you're not wrong Ian. It did do that - by means of cookies. In particular it kept a cookie for your personal dictionary (custom spellings that you add).

Problem is that if you ever delete all cookies for security reasons, you've lost everything. Spell checking is something makes much more sense at the browser level at the user's choice rather than having it foisted on him/her by the editor (text editor I mean).

As for the MHT web designers, I don't know how much difference it makes. I don't think the text editor is custom software. It's just off-the-shelf. MTM has picked it an is probably a bit stuck with it by now - bit of an effort to changes horses this far along. It's the software writers that need to be reading this forum .... although I suppose MTM could pass the comments along if they deigned to read them.

More simply, they could remove the disabling of the user's browser based speel checker and put the irritation to bed once and for all.

Ah, but you could always do that. It includes the added comment within the quote (i.e. it doesn't break the left-hand quote bar). It's illogical because it make your comments look like part of the quote and people who are following the thread may simply decide what you are replying to via a quick glance and then move on without noting the interspersed comments.

On an email client, for instance you can break a quote and add comments between the parts of the quote in their own space. It would be nice if it were possible here.

It only happens when you quote from a previous message (so you wouldn't have seen it in your reply).

Try this specifically:

- Click quote on a previous message

- In the reply window, click in the white area under the quote to put the text-cursor there ready for a reply.

- Now, without pressing any mouse buttons move the mouse cursor to the top of the text window (underneath the editing icons) in the approximate centre.

- You should see the dotted line appear.

In that context, could I make a request to whomever (author, editor, ?) that the first picture(s) they include in an article in is/are of the final, finished part/assembly for orientation purposes (i.e. so we know what the article is talking about). Simply stating in the title that we are going to make a dooflippy doesn't guarantee that the reader can picture what is meant.

Some magazine articles take a very simplistic approach: pictures are arrayed in strict manufacturing sequence from start to finish with the final part or assembly only shown at the end of of the article (which we may not see for 6 months or more) - if at all. I've seen articles where final pictures were never shown.

I hasten to add that ME/W are not by any means the worst culprits in this respect (although they've had their moments in the past). Much worse are the American stable of metalworking mags.

Lately, I keep seeing a red dotted line appear in the reply text window. It has what I take to be an "enter" symbol (or "carriage return" as we more mature people say) at the right- hand end.

I had hoped this was a means of inserting interspersed comments when quoting a message in a reply .... which would be truly useful and in some cases is a virtual necessity.

All I can seem to make it do though is allow top-posting - in which case, it seems hardly worth the effort in this particular forum layout.

Maybe everyone out there knows what it's actually intended to do (and how to use it). If so, could someone please enlighten me?

- God

Edited By OMG on 07/09/2013 16:32:44

While I agree in general with respect to the magazine itself, I don't think that every article has to fulfil all these conditions - that would be way too restricting. So I don't see this as a limitation particularly.

> 4. Short note on repairing an 18" shaper

"Short" meaning no more than 3 instalments?

Don't worry about it. My WM16 lookalike does the same thing - always has and I've been running it for probably 5 years now. In fact the control knob scale plate says 50/100 at the minimum end so it's obviously supposed to do that.

I rather think it would be harder to design electronics to run it down to actual zero than have a finite minimum speed. And why would you want to go to zero anyway?

I agree. Mine has a morse taper but I'd prefer parallel.

Blank morse arbors can be used to advantage though to make custom centering devices.

My 6" table is generally similar to the one in Michael's link. When used horizontally there is one bolting point and, in line at the other end, there is a clamping surface for a regular table-clamp. Both locations can use a single slot.

When used vertically, there are two bolting slots at 108.5mm pitch on mine; the slots are 14 x 25 mm so with the likely clamping bolt sizes that you could accomodate you would need slot spacings of between, say, 95 and 125 mm (according to my maths .... feel free to correct it).

However there are also clamping surfaces available for regular table-clamps in the vertical position and there is room to lengthen the slots if you felt inclined (and can hold it in the mill to do so)

On my table there is also provision for a slot-locating key in both horizontal and vertical orientations. You'd have to make the key to fit your own slot (well, that of your milling table actually).

Another thing you might consider is whether it will overhang the table slightly at the back and whether that will restrict y-axis movement.

My table is 7" wide. I started with a 4" RT and quickly got frustrated with it. Unless you are machining really small stuff or unless your part has through holes that you can use for clamping, the room taken up by external clamps and the difficulty of getting them in acceptable positions will have you gnashing your teeth (if you still have those).

My 4" was also one of those which has a continuously adjustable vertical angle. Looked good on paper but it would never stay put under cutter load. It was only practical to use it horizontally. I'd strongly recommend against it unless you real need it (and then be prepared to find an alternative way of locking it in position).

I quickly dumped the 4" and bought a 6" ( zero and 90 deg) RT. I'm much happier with that:: it's much more solid and is much easier to set up clamping arrangements. It feels perhaps marginally large for the table but not excessively so and hasn't been a problem.

Bear in mind that larger tables also take up more height which may be a consideration.

In the end, no one can tell you what size to buy for your situation. All they can do is point out the considerations and relate their experiences so that you can make an informed decision.

The decision depends partly on how deep your pockets are and partly on the maximum and minimum diameters you want to grip.

For all components (chucks and collets) ER40 costs significantly more than ER32 which costs significantly more than ER25.

ER25 has collet ranges of 1 - 16 mm dia

ER32 has collet ranges of 2 - 20 mm dia

ER40 has collet ranges of 2 -26 mm dia

The collets can generally accept diameters up to approx 10% or so smaller than their nominal diameter but not significantly larger. (Rule of thumb is they will take 1mm smaller but that's doubtful for the very small sizes).

The chucks of the larger sizes take up more room (of course) and have larger through bores.

Edited By OMG on 05/09/2013 16:59:30

I too have dealt with CTC for some years now .... all of it good.

If you prefer, you don't have to work through eBay - you can deal direct through their website

I usually use ER32 collets on my (R8) mill. I fitted a bunch of drill chucks with 1/2" parallel arbors so they can just slip into a 1/2" (or 13mm) collet.

Makes it fairly quick to swap tools - no messing with drawbars and the collet chuck is rarely removed

Not really. The link expands to http://[email protected] which seems to be an employee login to the site and demands credentials.

Try it again without the ' sales@ , part

I know how you feel. I got a renewal reminder for my ME subscription today (the current one doesn't actually expire until Nov 5). I can "renew my subscription today for just £47.95" ...... which cost me £29.99 a year ago.

Be still my heart.

I don't think so.

Yes, I know John but I don't - willy-nilly - update to every succeeding version of Firefox upon release since Mozilla started putting out incremental versions every few weeks as opposed to major version releases every 6 months (adequately tested) with interim security/bug fixes.

I routinely check the Firefox support newsgroup and I think I'll stick with V18 for now.

You're reading body-language into it, Diane. Always risky in a text forum. It was just an opinion.

|Sorry Sid - it's purely altruistic. It looks better. It's clearer. It's an altogether better |design. We thought you might like it better.

.... but do we have a choice? ( - body language/intonation suggesting rhetorical question). In any event, I'd much rather MTM spent its energies correcting some of the problems that have been complained about by many for years than messing with ineffectual cosmetic changes. (Another opinion).