Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Lathe Advice Needed |
22/09/2009 18:47:15 |
I have seen them with bolted on tee sloted tables and they all seem to have tapped holes in the cross slide so it should be easy enough. You can also buy a large milling table but they cost as much as a small X1 type mill.
Jason |
22/09/2009 16:17:40 |
What sort of size work are you thinking of doing as this will have an effect on what you will need.
There is a Bantum 1600 in the for sale section, these are good solid machines with a far greater capacity than a myford.
Jason |
Thread: Help what engine is this please? |
21/09/2009 13:31:19 |
You could ask on Home Model Engine Machinist forum, there are a lot of builders of engines from bar stock there.
Jason |
Thread: O Ring Groves |
20/09/2009 17:35:53 |
I would have thought so, the SR part of the code is likely to be Chronos own for "silicon rings" and the number is the B.S. of which the size ref of which the 2 represents the cross section, in this case 0.139" and the 14 is the number for a 1" ID ring of that section.
Gently put a mic or calliper on it and you should get a good idea of what the section is
Jason |
20/09/2009 14:08:49 |
Are you sure of those O ring sizes a BS214 1" ID ring would have a cross section of 0.139" not 0.125
Jason |
Thread: octagonal inserts |
19/09/2009 08:51:55 |
Have you tried J&L they do octagonal inserts both with & without holes
Best to use the "virtual catalogue" start at page 311
Jason |
Thread: Trevithick's Dredger - Part 8 - where is it? |
19/09/2009 07:39:09 |
What about part 13?
Jason |
Thread: Novice beginner |
16/09/2009 20:44:56 |
Just a bit more info on the Amberley rally that the museums web site linked above does not really cover
Entrance to the museum will get you in to see all their exhibits and the model engines will be in steam and running around the site both days. They have a parade at 3.00pm so this is the best time to see them all running but if you want to talk to other builders & owners then any time during the day except when they are lining up for the parade. If when you come through the gates you go up the hill behind the resteraunt you will find the main area where the models are being prepared and the owners camping out.
You will probably find me loitering around the MJ Eng stand, ask Alan to point me out if you want a chat.
Jason Edited By JasonB on 16/09/2009 20:47:59 |
15/09/2009 15:52:16 |
This is what Edward said re prices
"The boiler in steel for a LS in 3" scale is a shade under £1,000 and in 4” a shade over; but all things being equal essentially the same price. I always think you get much better value for money with a 4” engine and the sum total of all your efforts is obviously a better passenger hauler."
The rest of the thread can be read here
Jason |
15/09/2009 13:42:38 |
We were discussing first traction engines over on Traction Talk a couple of days ago. A professionally made steel boiler for a 3" little samson is just under £1k and the 4" just over. That compares quite faverably to a copper boiler, I paid £1600 for my Fowler one about 18months ago.
Though if Kerbtrawler is a coded welder it could be very economic to make a self build boiler but it may be harder to sell on the engine at a later date.
If you want to read a bit more about the 6" GMT have a look at Julia Olds site and if you can get down to amberley at the weekend that will give you a chance to see the size of models in the flesh and talk to some builders.
Jason |
15/09/2009 07:31:02 |
Meyrick, I was not suggesting the 3" little samson (though it is a good small engine to start with ) but Edward also does the GMT in 6" scale which is not a lot larger than some of the big 4" engines, just scroll to the bottom of the page I linked to.
Jason |
14/09/2009 20:42:02 |
2" GMT - 2 inch Gold Medal Tractor, so named because the 4nhp tractor won a gold medal in the 1908 royal automobile club trial, subsequent engines were given the "Gold Medal" titlea Gold Medal in the 1908 Royal Automobile Club Triaa Gold Medal in the 1908 Royal Automobile Club Trial.
Not to be confused with a 6 inch GMT
![]() Jason |
14/09/2009 16:54:31 |
You should be fine then
There isn't really any need for welding unless you want to roll your own rims and weld in the flanges. There is a fair bit of silver soldering particularly if you make your own boiler.
There are other bigger Burrell models about but if you don't intend on using it a lot on the rally field or doing road runs then the 2" GMT is a nice model.
Jason |
14/09/2009 16:21:32 |
Do you have any previous model engineering experiance, and if so what machines do you have available.
I'm Building MJs 2" Fowler, (you can see pics in MJ's Gallery section) and have found the quality of parts and castings to be very good, also Alan is nice to deal with. I would suggest you pop in and have a look at one of Alans finished engines and cast your eyes over the plans. If you are still tempted the get a set of drawings and the build manual (or the back issues of EIM that covered the build) The good thing with the Burrell is that the wheels come cast to finished size so the largest dia you are likely to need to turn is the flywheel and final drive, even these can be done by MJ if your machines are not upto capacity
You could also make a day of it by going to the Amberley traction engine rally this comming weekend, MJ will have their stand there and the original owners of MJ are usually there as well with some engines. There will also be around another 70 Miniatures in steam.
The only thing to bear in mind with the 2" Burrel is that its a bit small for grass rally fields but will pull you OK on tarmac.
There are a couple of people with this engine on Traction Talk forum who will help, just ask in the model section
Jason Edited By JasonB on 14/09/2009 16:23:07 |
Thread: Douglas engine......again |
11/09/2009 20:00:41 |
Nice work there
I have bookmarked your site for a more leasurely read.
Jason |
Thread: wyvern |
11/09/2009 16:53:00 |
Vol 129 No 3236, 1st Nov 1963 Gives details of Carb & ignition
I would also imagine that Hemmingways have details on the drawings they supply along with the castings
Jason Edited By JasonB on 11/09/2009 16:58:37 |
Thread: loctite 638 |
11/09/2009 13:27:48 |
You also want to check how the loctite performs with higher temps, it starts to drop off a lot at 100 deg C, maybe 648 would be a better choice.
Personally I would go with silver solder, but if you want to go the loctite route see what your boiler inspector thinks about fittings made that way
Jason |
Thread: Overloaded website |
10/09/2009 12:43:03 |
If you click the forums tab at the top and then click latest posts which is just under "all forum topics" from there you will get six pages worth of posts, easy enough to see whats been going on from there as it goes back to the start of the forum. The bit at the top right just gives the last few posts
Don't really have any probs with responce times or are you on dial up?
Jason
Edited By JasonB on 10/09/2009 12:43:54 Edited By JasonB on 10/09/2009 12:45:34 |
Thread: Engine building without power tools |
07/09/2009 07:45:17 |
Going by the photo some of the castings do not sem to be drilled eg the pedestalls and there are also lengths of raw bar stock laying about. I would not want to be drilling castings freehand and cutting & threading bar is not really something to do on the kitchen table.
The stuarts for example just require painting and bolting together with maybe a bit of cleaning up of machined surfaces.
Worth just giving them a call this morning to check whats involved.
Jason |
06/09/2009 17:48:32 |
I think that kit will take you longer than expected. Its looks like some of the parts are not machined?
Jason Edited By JasonB on 06/09/2009 17:49:44 |
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.