Here is a list of all the postings Stephen Brown 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Electrical Newbie....please help! |
20/05/2023 01:10:01 |
Update - I got the 10amp power supply but the motor is still not strong enough to turn the threaded rod |
12/05/2023 14:16:26 |
Posted by John Doe 2 on 12/05/2023 09:22:55:
No offence, but I think you would probably be much better off using an actual battery drill to drive your lathe carriage. You can sometimes buy second-hand DeWalt, Bosch, Makita battery drills from those high street shops. All the electrical supply, gearbox, speed control and reversing switch would be there as part of the drill. And they have high torque. You would simply need to fabricate a mounting to secure the drill onto your wood turning lathe carriage drive. Without understanding electricity, you might spend a lot of time and money otherwise.
PS, Note : Domestic light fittings are still live even when the light they feed is switched off.
Edited By John Doe 2 on 12/05/2023 09:28:06 I do have plenty of drills but there isnt enough clearance between the jig and the tailstock to get the drill body behind the tailstock as the end cut is very close to the lathe center (4mm) |
11/05/2023 23:45:16 |
Posted by Peter Cook 6 on 11/05/2023 23:13:29:
As others have said repeatedly, the fundamental problem is the power adapter. You say Motor:
Get a 6A or preferably 10A power supply and it should go. The adapter you have is satisfactory for the No-load condition, but way too small for the stall current - which it will hit when starting up. Sorry to double-post. Ive just been trying to do a bit of research on the adapters, from what i can see the adapters dont force the ampage, its pulled by the source? So i am guessing the 10amp adapter would be fine as the motor should only draw up to 5.9amp from it? And the adapter will just cap the max amp draw at whatever it is rated to (10amp in this case) |
11/05/2023 23:17:59 |
Posted by Peter Cook 6 on 11/05/2023 23:13:29:
As others have said repeatedly, the fundamental problem is the power adapter. You say Motor:
Get a 6A or preferably 10A power supply and it should go. The adapter you have is satisfactory for the No-load condition, but way too small for the stall current - which it will hit when starting up. Thankyou, do you think i should try to find a similar adapter with a 5amp load then? And that should solve it? I think ill order the car battery as well and give both a go. I was thinking something like a cordless drill motor should do the job but when i looked for replacement parts they seem to have a toothed gear on the drive shaft which makes them slightly unsuitable for the use(well more unsuitable for my engineering aptitude lol). Would the motor not stall if i gave it a 10amp or 6+amp load? |
11/05/2023 23:08:59 |
Posted by John Doe 2 on 11/05/2023 22:59:38:
Slightly nervous about Dave's last statement - perhaps I am reading it wrong : 240V mains IS a widow-maker potentially, (no pun intended). Any "electrical newbie" needs to be 100% aware of how dangerous the mains supply can be in the hands of someone who clearly knows nothing about electricity. Much lower voltages than 240 V can kill - hence why building sites, where it can obviously rain, use a centre tapped 110V supply for their power tools, resulting in only 55V between either conductor and earth. UK mains can kill. Be under no doubt. Please be extremely careful. Better still, don't dabble with it. Agreed, I dont plan on playing with the mains directly |
11/05/2023 22:54:04 |
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 11/05/2023 22:30:08:
Martin's approach will get the right answer, but I see the power supply is undersized. The motor probably draws more than 5A from stopped, and needs at least 5A amps to get up to speed. If the power supply can't deliver enough amps, the motor will stall. I'd test the motor driving the lathe by connecting the motor to a car battery, which can provide at least 60A. Bit dangerous though, because accidentally shorting the battery will melt the wires - nasty burns and a fire risk. In electrics:
Try it with a bigger power supply, but gut feel is that 60W is on the low side. The power needed to drive the cutter is proportional to the feed rate and depth of cut. I doubt 60W will zip along - a motor that size will do the job, I expect it will slowed down with a gear or belt-drive. (Halving the speed with a gear doubles the torque.) Dave Thankyou Dave, do you know if the voltage can be "spikey" on car batteries? Im reading some reviews saying it can drop depending on the charge(some 12v batteries giving 6.3v outputs) which would affect the motor speed
Wire:
PWM Controller: Brush Motor Speed Controller — DC12—60V /20A DC Motor Controller Forward/Reverse Electric Motor Speed Regulator Features:
|
11/05/2023 22:11:10 |
Posted by Robert Atkinson 2 on 11/05/2023 22:09:29:
Try running it off a car battery. I'm pretty sure your adaptor is not man enough.
Thanks ill give that a go. The original plan was to run it off of a 5amp motorbike battery but i came across the adapter on amazon and thought it might be more convenient. Ill order the motorbike battery and see if it works any better |
11/05/2023 21:54:52 |
Posted by Robert Atkinson 2 on 11/05/2023 21:50:36:
Hmm, You don't need a variable voltage "adaptor" and a PWM controller. For inital testing just connect the power adaptor to the motor and vary the voltage. You can wire a change-over switch or just swap the leads to chang direction. I suspect that the power adaptor is not powerfull enough. If it is still slow without the PWM unit you need a bigger powersupply. The clue is 2A power adaptor and 5A motor. I suggest you need a 6 or 8A 12V fixed voltage power supply to drive this motor with the PWM controller. You could also try using the PWM adaptor with a 12V car battery instead of a mains supply. Robert. Hi Robert, thanks for the reply. |
11/05/2023 21:48:39 |
Hi Martin thankyou for the reply. |
11/05/2023 17:32:10 |
Hi
The issue i am facing is the motor doesn't seem to have enough torque to turn the threaded rod and stalls before any turning, i need it to ideally run up to 1100rpm (but id prefer it to be variable hence the PWM controller) |
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