Here is a list of all the postings Justin Thyme has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Part Identification |
07/01/2023 20:17:44 |
This come come with the lathe and I have no idea what it is for - there is quite a few of them all with morse tapers, this one is 48mm
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Thread: Micrometer Question |
05/01/2023 01:08:58 |
Posted by Hopper on 04/01/2023 23:40:05:
I have never found alcohol, meths, rubbing alc. etc very good at dissolving anything other than the plastic lenses on instruments. Petrol might be worth a try. It certainly dissolves much muck. And was recommended by Mitutoyo to be used to free up sticky plungers on dial indicators on an old service sheet I have. Maybe back in leaded petrol days it had a lubricating effect too? Their recommendation was just a few drops on the plunger. Cleaning the joint edges with a toothpick as MG suggests might help it get into the joint too. it had about 5 hours immersed in petrol to no avail. It is now wallowing in diesel and will be there for a few days as I am not about the morrow |
04/01/2023 14:26:39 |
had it soaked in watch cleaning stuff overnight - no joy
how about isopropyl alcohol, or even petrol ? |
04/01/2023 00:16:34 |
I have found boiling stuff in oil a good way of freeing stuff up, but may keep that tactic until later. Will dry a few days of wd40 type stuff, I also have a contact at a staretts factory, I may email her. anyway, may be to clarify where it is not stuck, this is it dismantlement as far as I can
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03/01/2023 23:25:56 |
thanks for the replies but they don't really address my problem. Part 'A' in my picture (Coarse Thimble Assembly) does not move in relation to Part 'B' ( Fine Thimble Assembly) This is potentially a nice little tool and I don't want to start trying to force anything with vices, pliers and hammers. Not even sure if I should be trying to get a bit of thin oil between the stuck bit. |
03/01/2023 21:03:34 |
this little micrometer came into our possession along with some other engineering stuff, it has an unknown history It seems quite accurate in comparison to other ones that we have. However part "A" does not move separately from art"B" and there is no torque release (normally you can only tighten a micrometer to a certain tightness, as I'm sure you will all know) Not sure what the screw spring assembly does on the end. I feel the whole thing is jammed, some release oil has not helped - so before I start to use some real effort to turn "A" with respect to 'B'. Has anyone got any suggestions or knowledge of this micrometer, and how best to proceed - I don't want to make things worse Edited By Justin Thyme on 03/01/2023 21:04:44 |
Thread: Privacy Glass in cars |
14/12/2022 09:28:05 |
Posted by Samsaranda on 08/12/2022 19:42:09:
Have had two cars now with tinted rear windows my personal taste is I don’t like them and think they make the car look slightly ridiculous, unfortunately we have no choice now as they come as standard, something that manufacturers think we crave. Dave W Indeed car manufacturers are increasing adding technology and functionality that I don't want, i really do detest new cars with a passion. I have access to a new state of the art merc and my old ex works 06 plate van and most if not all of the time I prefer my van. Just simple stuff like heating, the van has the traditional 3 dials, fan, how hot and direction. Probably need to be a trained astronaut to figure out the nonsense in the car, (and at least I don't get cold feet drivng the van) |
14/12/2022 09:18:20 |
Posted by Tom Sheppard on 13/12/2022 17:22:11:
You've all missed the point completely. Privacy glass is fitted so that the little darlings don't have to suffer the traumatic social stigma of being seen by their peers, travelling in a Ford Fiesta. That is why it is a standard fit on the type. It is also useful for not exposing them to too much daylight (something youngsters can't tolerate these days) bright light can spoil their social media screen time. I'm sure many drivers would like all round tints so as they too can concentrate better on their mobile phones.
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Thread: Warco Lathe Oiling |
12/12/2022 23:36:38 |
Another question - on the cross slide (Y axis?) there is a Gib that needs adjusted to remove play. there is 4 grub screws that make this adjustment. Is there any particular order to adjust these for best results?
I have just done them up so just an extra few degrees on any of them will make it too tight - but still wondering what best practice is |
12/12/2022 23:29:22 |
Posted by Nicholas Farr on 12/12/2022 11:33:53:
Justin, as Hopper says, any oil can, with a suitable size nozzle, is used on those ball oilers. I haven't ever seen or been aware of anything special to use on them, you just push the ball down with the nozzle and you should only use a few drops of oil each time, as too much will just drip out somewhere. Regards Nick. OK, so it can just be dripped in with the ball pressed down. This would be OK for the hydraulic oil as its quite thin. But some of these oiling points lube the 'slide ways' and as far as i understand these need a 'way oil' which is a pretty thick stuff and I feel this would need to be forced in? The manual I have is not very good, it just says 'machine oil' for all the points, I take it this is the hydraulic oil?
and a big thanks to all the other replies, all very helpful. And I will be needing as much help as I can get, I don't know much about metal lathes. |
12/12/2022 23:18:58 |
Posted by Samsaranda on 12/12/2022 10:37:42:
Justin I have a Warco BV20 lathe which has a geared headstock, it has a sight glass same as yours, this is to indicate the oil level in the gearbox. If you want to do an oil change, or top up the gearbox then it requires removal of the top cover of the gearbox and to empty you need a syringe with plastic tubing attached. Dave W I had been think the sight level would also double up as the drain plug, I'm guessing it could be close to the bottom, will need something to catch the oil but can't imagine there is much in. Where do you fill to ? the middle of the sight ? |
11/12/2022 11:09:49 |
Have just come into posession of a Warco WMT500 Lathe, and the manual that I have manage to download is not much help, I'm hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. From the image below, just above the bed there is a transparent hex shaped oil level indicator, which sort of suggests it has an oil sump. But I can't find any drain plug? What Type of oil would be used here, the rather vague manual suggests "Lathe Head - Splashing - Machine Oil - Daily" !
also what sort of oil gun would I use on these nipples
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