Member postings for Steven Francis

Perhaps a lttle tongue in cheek, maybe along the lines of ...where can I buy a rag impregnated with grit and swarf or is that something special used before leaving the factory

Thanks for the replies, I used plain lithium grease, didn't over load- less is more.

Its an Amadeal 210... so basically a generic brushless belt-drive 8x16.

Should a Chinese mini-lathe have grease in its spindle bearings??

Had the front plate off mine to replace the speed pot and had a peek at the bearings...dryer than the proverbial dry thing.

There is nothing in the manual, there are no grease or oil points and the only way of checking is to remove the switch plate.

Believe it has roller rear, tapered roller front. not sealed.....surely there should have been some lubricant?

I haven't used the big red-(ish) button besides checking that it worked, finding out that its not a dead stop switch and thats it. I've always turned the speed control to zero and used the on/off buttons.

If the BRB is down- same with the guard and side-panel breakers there's no power and the display doesn't light. up...which in this case it does.

The manual..pah. I'll l live in hope that there's actually a troubleshooter with more detail than ..make sure plugged in and power is switched on

Hi,

my Amadeal has packed up, powers on but won't turn.

There has been a single error code on the speed display E-04 but otherwise just 0000

There's nothing in the bare bones manual..

spindle wont turn- emergency switch depressed

I've contacted the supplier who initially thought it was the emergency cut off switch.

I checked operation and connections for all of the safetys, main power on-off and emergency.

I received an email - after consultation with his tech guy a new board has been ordered and is winging it's way from China.

Does anyone know what the error codes are for these generic lathes?

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There is nothing on the internet, based on the only references I could to simple devices find I feel that it's a switching relay- physical or board issue - damned if I know.

After removing the control board to take a picture so that the correct replacement could be ordered- I reconnected it and the lathe ran once...until I switched off and on again. One E-04 code then 0000 again.

Unplugged all of the connections board, power, emergencies and reconnected.

Again would only run once and this time with direction switch set to reverse.

Worked through the switches, wires, connectors and plugs individually ...nada nichts.

Thanks for the replies, at the very least kept me from stewing on my own.

Called the supplier and a replacement is on its way.

no and yes... wrong sequence is one land out, but yes re-assembled correctly.

jaw #3 was out of alignment before the stripdown and clean-up, expected to find swarf, delrin...just grey oil.

don't believe that I've overtightened the chuck and certainly wouldn't use an extension to crank it round. Didn't hand-crank it until my knckle popped either.

Chatter if I'm correct is vibttation- run-out, endfloat, tooling & set-up.

The scroll looked ok, did I measure the whole spiral? No- but there didn't appear to be any stress or binding marks. The key gear retaining pins were loose, one scratched. pretty sure that was #2- might have been when it got sticky winding the jaws out.

The jaws are marked and went back in their respective keyways.

• the machine or an accessories has developed a mechanical fault (rare but possible)

buggered if I know, Murphy's law

• operator error - the list is endless. (Most of the trouble in my workshop is caused by me)

not impossible by any means although I am at a loss to how

• difficult material. Possibly the airgun barrel is made from a steel that doesn't machine well. Gun barrels, which might be hardened for longevity, are sometimes rifled by drop forging them onto a mandrel which toughens the steel even more. Gun barrels may not be easy to machine. Should be OK if it filed and sawed without major bother.

hmm... no idea of the maker but it wasn't Lothar Walther ( which is harder to cut and file) nor was it cold hammer forged BSA. Roughing was rough and so was finishing., don't believe I got it hot enough to work-harden.

Yes, chuck off stripped and rinsed out. Only noteable thing besides the corrosion on the scroll plate gears- the key/pinion retainers were loose and one was scratched.

No improvement.

Cheers Baz, was feeling a tad frustrated and was hoping for advice- agreement on possible reason for failure before I got on the phone and tried to be politely miffed.

Had my Amadeal 210 lathe about 10 weeks, turned a couple of small pieces of stainless (30mm x 14o/d) and an airgun barrel last week, besides those .. its been mostly used for turning plastics and facing up repairs.

Accuracy has been pretty good for a 3 jaw self-centreing? 0.02-0.03 mm runout at the spindle plate and chuck body, similar on the ER16 straight shank holder. And reversing the workpeice wasn't far off either..

Until the weekend when I did the barrel and entered chatter city. I used the offcut as a test piece , tried speeds, feed rates, tool overhang, Wasn't pretty in the early stages but I got the job done.

Chatter is work in progress. However I'm getting a tap when parting off 30mm delrin that disappears as the tool gets further in.

But for some reason the chuck jaws are out, #3 jaw is loose and about 0.3mm further out when loosely wound together, test rod run-out can be anywhere between 0.04 and 0.25mm by loosening and re-tightening the chuck.

I've stripped the chuck, washed and blown it out, bit crud, no lumps of swarf just grimy. And 'factory spec rust' on the back of the scroll gears.

Reassembled, 0.02-0.03 run-out on the spind;le /chuck body again but the #3 jaw is still slow and workpeice run-out still suffers random centering.

Was waiting for a new tool to arrive in order to finish off a couple of bits and I had to dial them in but repeatability has gone right out of the window

I've been using the supplied oil can which bypasses the seal and puts more oil through the trigger/pump pin than the tip and a plastic syringe with a 90 degree tip to get to two that are rendered otherwise inaccessible by the Y axis DRO scale.

TBH with a 20% OE fail in three weeks (not thirty years) I was looking for alternatives at least for the ones that don't need to be flush

Obviously searched and found press button / ball etc. Easy to remove and retrieve the bb with a magnet.

Two have dropped the ball (boom boom) on my Amadeal , one on the lead screw bearing and one on the cross slide.

Besides replacing them with more of the same (box 6mm -100 £20) can the easily accessible ones be replaced with small oil cups?

I was looking to replace two blocked by the DRO scale with 90* grease nipples but the supplier wanted £9 odd postage for a £4 purchase.

Interesting,,not infallible but unlikely to self destruct,

I have gloves but honestly can't say that I reach for them first, I have suffered from mild dermatitis but thats dry cardboard related- years of working in warehouses.

As such not a problem with oily hands, motor, oil, gun oil (hmm Ballistol) the slides run a lot smoother on iso 32 hopefully that won't cause any longer term issues.

Looks like I may hit the button on a Reilang, I think there's an old Wesco in the shed ..somewhere behind the chainsaws.

Not Done it Yet

yes, an annoying design / installation oversight

SillyOldDuffer / Nick Wheeler / Samsaranda

It's oil and oil cans are well...oily

A 'drip' would be heavenly compared to a handful.

Brian

something to consider with your sons install - I haven't taken the oportunity to see if the scale can be moved.

I've looked for 45* / 90" drive fit nipples for the beds, choice is limited guess I can modify some threaded ones ...I have a lathe now.

Jon / Clive

Probably won't be chasing vintage cans or making new/repros. Humbly ..a good working oil can 'a' drip after use will be fine (for now)

The oil can supplied with my Amadeal is utter rubbish, I've adjusted the seal several times and its impossible to stop oil coming out through the trigger pin.

I have had more oil on my hand, the bench and floor than the in machine and it's only through bare necessity that I haven't thrown it out the door.

Would purchase one of the £8-10 cans on the bay-of-evils ..there are many sellers to choose from but having purchased various items feel quality can be bit of a lottery.

I've searched the threads and Reilang appears to be a popular choice, are they 'that' good?

Are there various tips available? the cross-slide DRO scale covers the saddles r/h/s s ball oilers and I would really need a short 90 degree bend at the tip.

Guess the answer would be adapt or make one ?

I've initially overcome the can and access issue buy using a 20ml syringe and blunt #10 - cheap as chips and effective but longer term (if not a suitable can & tip) would be some low profile 90* nipples.

apologies, new forum- different format, should have been a multi-quote, aluminium waffle was directed at Clive.

Not allowed to right click copy and paste.to start with

I guessed you meant something to do with half-nuts ( I'm learning quickly) but otherwise had no idea of what you were on about,until I searched the forum.

I honestly don't believe there is part of this machine without some level of backlash..that wouldn't need some kind of skills and experience currently beyond me or perhaps even warranty voiding modifications.

.I'm very doubtful of the boxes ticked and tolerances quoted by QC although with time and patience I will get closer to them.

Searched ...ah yes backlash.all round.appears to be part of the 210s specs.

I have some aluminium -

Yesterday I turned the shed upside down looking for a bag od 50x75x1.5 mm aluminium strips, unable to find those ..I cut and ground flat some 3mm & 5mm plate.

Today I found the aluminium ...it wasn't in the shed.

Came up with a technical issue - with the 8mm (min 11m i/d) indexable boring bar and for that matter the screw cutting tool.

The tool-post is too low to put the tools in the centre of the workpice, messed about making shims to get the tool to the top of the post and was still about a mil out.

Shims under the tool post?