Member postings for RickJ

Thanks all. I've read up on grinding jaws but wanted to check if I was heading down the right path before removing material!

I do already do the "turn until start of scroll is visible then turn back" approach, but hadn't even crossed my mind that an entire tooth could be missing from a jaw - I'll check, thank you.

Hi Thor, thanks for the welcome.

Yes I'm ok with that side of things, this is whether I can identify if mystery sets are suitable for the chuck I have or not. They engage with the scrolls ok and fit the slots.

Evening all,

I've been fortunate enough to pick up a restoration project ML7 which is now fully up and running. I'm now at the point of sorting out the tooling and workholding for it. I have a 4 jaw chuck that needs a major strip as it is heavily rusted, but have already stripped, cleaned and rebuilt two 3 jaw chucks. One is a Pratt Burnerd International, the other is a Crown of some description. Jumbled in various boxes I have assembled 4 jaw sets. However...

Some of the sets don't result in a centred grip (several mm off).

Some of the sets result in visible runout on the workpiece.

Is there an easy way to identify what Jaws go with these chucks (if any)? They are matched triplets in terms of stamped numbers and 1, 2,3 sequence.

I'm debating just rigging up a grinder, loading the Jaws and grinding them concentric, but I'm wary that if the Jaws aren't matched to the chuck I could end up with slop issues.

Any and all guidance hugely welcomed! Thank you.