Member postings for Jinks

Thanks Martin, I'll have a look.

I've got the manuals available on the group, although the drawings available are certainly helpful, even if not entirely clear!

I bought the lathe with 2 booklets which I believe are the print from lathes.co.uk.

Just thought I'd shoot an update with the switch plate roughly mounted, needs a lick of paint and the rev/off/fwd decal taken from the barrel switch adding but it works for now.

Thanks Martin, I'll have a look.

I've got the manuals available on the group, although the drawings available are certainly helpful, even if not entirely clear!

I bought the lathe with 2 booklets which I believe are the print from lathes.co.uk.

Just thought I'd shoot an update with the switch plate roughly mounted, needs a lick of paint and the rev/off/fwd decal taken from the barrel switch adding but it works for now.

Thanks old mart, I'll keep that in mind. I had badly mis-read the manual and got confused and had been thinking about the manually operated pump for the headstock end gears, which after a re read clearly says is topped up & drained from the t-piece at the back. Embarrassing how much I missed on my first read through! Also worrying as I had opened the drain and found only sludge on the plug and no oil content! Time for some fresh oil!

Hi Martin, I can see the benefits but it seems like an easy mistake to start with both engaged! And easy to not get the dog teeth fully engaged whilst starting, potentially damaging the clutch!

Sadly, I don't have the drawbar, collets or collet holder (unless they go straight into the spindle?). Are these standard size collets?

PLA & PETg are both meant to be resistant to oil, and a dunk test and time will tell I would suspect - worst case it gives me reason to try lost PLA investment casting at home!

Thanks for your help & advice!

I did notice both the motor faltering quickly and the link belt drive (between the motor and lower gearbox) struggling to not slip in the direct drive mode so I may be in the market for a new one soon, but first I better whip it out and check it over.

To keep it looking original I think a 3D printed one would fit well, when I can get my printer back up and running - useful to know the screw size! Picked some up this morning from my local supply shop on the way to work! Looks like the smaller switch plate mounts with 2BA.

Picked up some Imperial Hex keys at the same time (surprised to find I didn't have any imperial tools at all!) and got the dog clutch working - it seems dangerous to have a clutch which is operated by an internal socket locking up against a gear train which is operated from the outside - the engaging fork in the Mk1.5 onwards seems to me to be an essential part of the machine. Working out a way to add this feature in may be a project for the distant future.

Reverse would be a useful feature to have for threading but I'm sure I can get around without it!

Thanks for all your help! Does anyone know where the oil resevoirs for both the apron and the backgear train get filled?

Perfect, Thanks!

The book does mention that socket but given that I haven't got the original tool it talks about I was hoping that wasn't the case - would I be correct in thinking that the socket needs to be turned 180* to disengage direct drive and re-engage the back gear every time a speed change is wanted?

I'll investigate tonight with a chopped down hex key.

If so - that fork arrangement would seem like a major part of the assembly to miss out in the Mk1 model!

Thanks All!

Stueeee - there is a little rectangular cut out into the top of the curve to the left of the lid, yours has a little handle in it but mine doesn't and it's painted shut - what does this cover?

Exactly right on the first one

No, not at all, in fact that was the question I was going to ask, as I cant see any way a clutch could be engaged at the moment.

As below, the "In/out" lever looks to turn the shaft in red below which in turn rotates the eccentric (blue) onto which the backgear gears are mounted - there doesn't appear to be any forks anywhere to operate the dog clutch and I haven't noticed them on the drawings - is there any chance you could indicate on one of these drawing roughly where I should be looking for it?

Thanks!

I could be misunderstanding you here, but I wouldn't describe the backgear as not disengaging - the back gear as I understand it is the eccentric engaged gear which transfers power between the two gears on the right side of the headstock image above.

The problem is when it is disengaged the pulleys spins free and does not engage direct drive with the spindle, massively limiting the number of output speeds.

From your description, it sounds as though the dogclutch isn't engaging?

Hi There,

I'm a new member to the forum though did hold a magazine subscription for a few years, a few years back.

I've just moved back to Gods Own County and bought my/our first house,) I knew my garage was begging for a lathe!

By fluke I ended up going to see a Smart & Brown Model A a month back which looked in pretty good nick (minus the switch gear) and thought it'd be a steal.

It was sold as 3 phase & motor not working, but a bit of work digging it out from the cabinet and it turns out its a Tuscan Engineering single phase induction jobby. Works fine, bearings sound brand new, sat on it's arse it runs smooth with no vibration or anything. Annoyingly, having just bought a nice lever arm reversing switch, the starter coil is hardwired in so it only spins one way, but I've got the lathe turning.

With the belt slackened, the 3 speed gearbox changes fine, but I'm struggling to get the "direct drive" (Back Gear 'Out' to function, and hoped someone here might be able to help. I have the book from Lathes.co.uk but it's somewhat lacking as a manual goes and I'm not really sure which model it is, whether its the Model A Mk1 or 1.5.

On the same topic, I've got some fair backlash in the cross slide, any knowledge on where to start with thatone would be good. Plus, the headstock loves to fire out oil when it's running with the cover open - is this normal? And where should I be topping it up? The manual pump just has a dead cavity when I take the cover off. I'm sure I can work all this out in time but if anyone has some experience I'd love to hear it!

I've applied to join the old yahoo group which I found in another thread here, but figured it may be worth asking here as well!

I've attached some pictures below.

tl;dr Hi, I'm new here, here's my new lathe - can you help me fix the "direct drive/"open belt" function?

Thanks!

Duncan