Member postings for Sub Wooer

I use carbide; they can be brittle and expensive, but otherwise superior than anything I can shape up with hss bars.

My second choice for portability would have been an ENCO Maximat 11". Stephan likes his: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-Sf7Nvkwzg

Third choice for rigidity would be a Hardinge, or maybe a Southbend heavy 10. Not sure if these are as readily available in the UK.

Well said William.

Peter, dont you worry bits of fabric over time will accumulate and clog the oillite bushings?

Brian, I use a bit of ABS plastic to cover my ways, and secure it with a single bolt. It keeps all swarf far away from the felt so a simple ways clean off to the left is all thats needed (when working with the slide back enough to expose the ways, which isnt often in my case). I also prototyped up some t slot fillers so cleanup is a breeze.

Edited By Sub Wooer on 17/08/2021 22:42:20

I just had an epiphany and decided to just stick a 1/2" bar in a boring bar holder. Seems to work ok!

Nice work Richard. Do you want to sell off your Hemmingway kit? I was thinking about doing a rest as well.

I used a custom press to push it in. I think its tight enough that it wont be the first to spin.. its also a harder material (steel?), so I suppose all things equal, the brass will yield before it would.

I suppose a worst case is that I press the inner one on, it wont let the axle spin, and I press it out and turn it down .1mm.

Phil, thats interesting.. so just push away and go for it?

The difference in diameter is about +.15mm

I'm in the process of replacing the bushings for the gear axles in the QC gearbox. Its going pretty well so far, tapped out the tapered pin, removed the two axles with gearing, removed the upper bushing and replaced it, as well as the lower silver colored outer bushing on the bottom axles. BUT, the oilite that rides inside the silver colored out bushing is very tight to go in. When I was taking the gearbox apart, this bushing was very loose and rotated freely out by itself. I am sure it will tap in, but isn't this bushing supposed to rotate on the silver bushing? Its very tight to enter. I am a little worried that it wont want to spin later, or is this just a part that goes in tough and wears TO the outer bushing after the first few hours of run in? I'm 99.9% sure it is the correct part that I am trying to use..

I was getting a lot of oil leaking from this bushing before teardown (when filling the nipples, not the gearbox oil) so I assume that it was well worn (previous owner used grease instead of oil in the nipples so it would make a lot of sense that it ran dry and wore out.

I'm also curious about the reinstallation of the shaft that has the keyway and tapered pin in it. What is the reinstall process? I took it apart in a convoluted way, but once it was apart, and after I felt how tight that bushing is to re-enter, I realized that perhaps the best way is this:

-slide axle into position from the right, threading gears on as I go.

-install tapered pin in gear #1 (check orientation carefully with caliper to find the big taper ends of the gear and axle).

-install the keyway from the right and align gears as it gets inserted. tap it lightly till it bottoms out on the #2 gear.

-tap in oil light inner bushing over the axle and inside the silver bushing

-screw in end cap and washer

Thanks for any advice!

duplicate, please erase

Edited By Sub Wooer on 28/06/2021 04:07:20

duplicate, please erase

Edited By Sub Wooer on 28/06/2021 04:07:08

I managed to get it out with little damage. I think I can reuse it..

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I'm about to remove the shaft too. Is there a way to drive the pin out and save it? I really dont want to drill it out especially if they are not really available.

Ugh, I just ordered the myford one which I read is better than the older one?! I guess its too late, but I'll grab that one if the other is insufficient.

Dave, would that still be the case if the switch is not actually turning on the motor (Baldor CEM3546 1hp), but just the VFD (teco l510)? There no condition where I would flick the switch and the lathe would start spinning (I believe this power loss state is a feature to control in the VFD. I realize the current would still flow through the switch, but the turn on of the motor would be controlled with the VFD controls. I have set it to ramp up to speed over 6 seconds, so turn on current should be a bit less than just slamming it to 100%. Thoughts?

Ah, yes in the states we use the term gfci. It looks like the terms are interchangeable.

When searching you can sometimes use a "-word" to remove any items that have that word in it. dont need the quotes.. so for examplee, search on : myford chuck -independent

Last night I ordered some VFD cable (which is really expensive! Cost me $60 for a min quantity of 20' and some 9 conductor shielded wire for the controls. some guys are using filtering and contactors, but I dont want to get into all of that. I think I will just run the system off of a light switch that I have an outlet connected to. I hope that is ok?! 

Edited By Sub Wooer on 17/06/2021 18:39:53

sorry, I dont follow.

agreed. IM JUST SO LAZYT THOUGH.

But really, its a great little project for covid days. I'm going to take my time with it and have some fun.

I got the VFD powered up. It throws my GFCI, but works fine on a normal plug. Not sure what I'm going to do there yet. I also need to find a good VFD grade cable and 10 conductor cable for the control box I am putting together. I'm using these cute little levers for jogging and direction.. can wait to show ya'll.

Welp, the good news. I sprayed what I could inside the apron with REMoil and went back to it today, and tried to move the lever.. It moved a little! Then I worked it some more, and eventually it just popped free. Just like the top cross slide, it was frozen solid by a mixture of cosmoline and whatever grease the last owner used. Shes as slick as an otters back now!

The bad news, its looking like I still have to totally dismantle the lathe to be able to lift the slide off of the ways to clean out the oil paths. They are solid with grease, I'm sure. I also get a decent amount of leaking out of the right side of the gear box at the bushings. Is that normal? One side appears to hold oil, but the right side, if I fill the cavity, leaks out completely after a few hours.. maybe overnight. it appears to be weeping mostly from the lower black flange on the right side of the gearbox.

Thanks, that explains why I thought there were half sizes. I would guess my lathe is from1982. I'll check out the bay a bit harder..

Thanks guys,

I was aware RGD bought off Myford spares when closing. I've been chatting with fellow online, and have quite a large cart going. The most common spares (wicks etc) appear to be there, but many many parts are not. I would assume the owner would have some not on the site. But one part I could not find was the motor pully covers (inner and outer sides). I would like those, so if anyone has a line on some (ideally in green!), I'd love to connect.

Kiwi, I ordered a ba tap and die set, so that its a good suggestion. Will do.

A big unknown is the condition of the spindle tapered bearing. It is my assumption that it is perfect, for thee reasons. One, there were traces of some sort of oil in the cup, however I had to add a LOT of oil to get it full - this could just be age related. Second, the cross slide was locked up, and clearly was out of use for a long time, and all of the crosshatching on the cross slide was nearly perfect, I could see only a 5mm area of lateral wear at the very edge. Third, there is no perceivable movement in the cuck, in any direction. Feels completely solid, but spins freely. The compound controls are like butter after I tuned them (I have a 8" chinese lathe, so I'm well accustomed to tuning... weekly).

Howard, thanks for the heads up I did read that on another forum. You just use the spindle lock pin on the other side, yah?

I just bought Ian's book. Thanks. I did see some mention of the adjustment screws for leveling. Unfortunately, my machine also did not come with the adjustment screws or the feet.

Pm sent Stevie, thanks!

Thanks. Yah I couldnt find BA threads in the us, so I ordered a ba tapper and I'll try and use that to somehow pull the screw mount pins?!

Martin, I've been all over those diagrams! Many are really bad quality and hard to discern what is what. Also, some dont show the hardware I have (ie missing gearbox)