Member postings for Dan Shilling

Thanks for running through that. I have followed it carefully and I am pleased with the result and you're right it does require some patience!

The lock is free. I has to resort to unscrew 3 1/2 a turn as you suggested - luckily I have the spanner for 3.

10 then came out easily I think it was turned in too much. Not sure how tight that thread should feel - at the moment I have tightened it with a slight play.

I have reassembled to check it 'works' though unlikely to be accurate anymore.

But it seems the rods that came with it are from some other micrometer unfortunately as they are quite a bit smaller in diameter.

I managed to release the spindle and get it back together but as yet adjusted. Yes dimensions of spanner 14 would be good however I noticed the rods that came with it are 1/8" and float quite a bit so I wonder if they are for this gauge after all!

thanks for that info I definitely won't touch nut 3 now that I know or the threads on 10.

it all goes together as you describe only it seems the leadscrew (10) is stuck, so much so that the taper does not touch part 11 anymore.

I cannot think how to free (10) as shown on my last photo. I suppose normally it should undo freely.

As it is a taper a collet chuck probably would just slip off or worst ruin the taper.

it came with some rods, lets say enough to be useful and the spanner shown as 13 but not 14 & 15. Not sure if this can be saved at the moment:

nut 3 is too tight to undo - possibly LH - and I think spindle 10 is there but stuck as shown on the last picture of the OP.

Edited By Dan Shilling on 25/08/2023 18:41:02

David yes it seems to be this one

thank you for the suggestion.

Edited By Dan Shilling on 25/08/2023 16:01:44

Edited By Dan Shilling on 25/08/2023 16:08:41

I was given this MITUTOYO 129-128 0-3" DEPTH MICROMETER; however I'm not sure if something is missing or how to put it back together again. Any suggestions apart from the bin! Please see photo's.

nothing exept some chipped end mills - those cones are about 1 1/2" long. I thought they could be some kind of hole centre finders. Came with vertical milling machine.

Edited By Dan Shilling on 12/04/2023 19:04:29

Edited By Dan Shilling on 12/04/2023 19:06:46

Hopefully somebody can identify in picture what these tools are for:

1 cone shaped (tools centre and left)

2 inner spline shaped (tool right)

Edited By Dan Shilling on 12/04/2023 16:32:25

Edited By Dan Shilling on 12/04/2023 16:33:45

Thanks Brian,

did not think of that and that combination probably more cheaper too.

Thanks all,

seems could work either way maybe that gear in the picture is some after market clone like RDG offer.

The RGD clones I've got are very good though not available in 127 unfortunately.

I was wondering if the Colchester Bantam seventies model 127 change gear has a spline?

The reason I ask is recently this gear came up without one which would make it easier to make or have made. See picture.

Anyway if somebody could confirm that would be great and what is the position of those three holes relative to?

Edited By Dan Shilling on 17/02/2023 11:00:51

Thanks all for explaining this.

At first I was hesitant to ask but I'm feeling glad I asked now.

I've decided to buy some supposedly old unused G&J Hall dies from ebay for what I need at the moment. We'll see how unused they really are when they arrive and hopefully they will last better than the sealey, clarke ect. sets.

I think this sounds like the best way to go

I was wondering if tungsten taps & dies are better than HSS such as these clarke tungsten set:

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht302-24-pce-tap-die-set/

It is the first time I've seen a tungsten set usually they are HSS or cheap carbon steel.

Elsewhere I've read tingsten steel 'is' HSS so a bit confused if these clarke set are really any good. Perhaps somebody could say.

thanks for the information.

Was wondering what are C42 C32 C25 Collets used for and is there a mt3 holder.

Seem to understand ER collet but not these

With the 127t change wheel -that I don't have - you can get approximately the metric back just like you can on an imperial machine but some threads such as modular won't work not that anybody tends to make these.

It's just if I could get a metric leadscrew it would complete the machine and I could set the machine straight from the plate without fussy calculations and approximations all the time.

that's terrible bad luck they should pay you the full £1250.

If you find somebody that can fix that then perhaps you could give me their details because mine needs a metric leadscrew and half nut See my post.

If you decide to break it.... well more than it is, then I need a metric leadscrew and half nut.

I'll look into the kingston option though I have not fully given up finding a good second hand metric leadscew and half nut - seems rare as hens teeth!