Member postings for Peter Sullivan 1

Hi,

Can someone please direct me towards a thread or forum which can tell me how to remove a spindle from a 1935 Drummond M lathe please? I am truly stumped and your help is greatly appreciated.

Peter Sullivan

Nicholas and Michael, thanks - I’ve solved the problem. I read elsewhere that the sleeve is actually pressed on, so with a bit of jiggery-pokery I managed to pull it off with a 4mm SS rod inserted into the tool holder and a little three-legged puller. For such a small part it was on really tight. Problem now is, during the struggle I’ve managed to break most of the tiny wires between the commutator and the split ring so the whole effin thing is now scrap! We live and learn.

Hi everyone, hope you are all well. The bearings on my old Dremel 395 have become very noisy lately so I have resolved to change them. The 626Z bearings were easy to find and they’re on the way to me. Removing the bearing at commutator end is a doddle but the other is a bit more difficult. I can get the thing to move and close the gap to the head sleeve but I was wrong when I thought it would ‘gather’ the sleeve on its way off the shaft. Does anyone know how to remove the sleeve, is it press fit, interference fit or even threaded? Any help will be gratefully received. Aye, Peter.

Les, Chris and Stuart - thank you for your excellent input. As Captain Darling would say - Oh Bugger. I think I’m going to have to get me a pair of magnetic scales and fit them after all. It leaves me with a perfectly serviceable, albeit second hand, Arceuro system. I may try to adapt it to fit my ‘35 Drummond M lathe, but I’m having difficulty in imagining the value of that - it may end up on eBay. Thanks once again for your help, it is much appreciated. Peter.

Chris - ah well, there you go you see. I’ve only presumed they’re magnetic type - I have seen the exact same scales on vernier callipers but if you say they’re capacitative type then I can maybe go from there. Would they not be compatible with my new DRO head then would you say?

Hi Dave - I have the pinout for the new one out of the book that came with it. The problem is the older, existing, head - it came with no paperwork at all and hunting it down on t’internet has proved fruitless.

Edited By Peter Sullivan 1 on 28/05/2021 17:06:25

Hi everyone, hope you are all well. I recently bought a used Chester bench top mill and I’m really pleased with it. One of the attractive parts other than the price was the fact that it had been fitted with a DRO - nice little blue thing, inexpensive but works well. I have been persuaded to purchase a larger head unit, one that’ll do various calculations, bolt rings, trigonometric calcs etc etc. But, when purchased over the internet, no mention of scale types was made. My machine has the magnetic type and I hope that it is compatible with the new head. Does anyone have any experience of swapping types on their setup? Further, there will have to be some minor butchery in the workshop as the cable that comes out of the magnetic reader terminates in an RJ-11 plug, whereas the new head requires the DB-9 interface - there is therefore an obvious question about pin outs. Again, has anybody had experience of doing this particular piece of surgery? If my eyes weren’t fading I’d leave well alone - the magnetic scales have been fitted so well by the previous owner (alas a silent key) that I am loathe to change them if I can avoid it. So any help, at all, will be gratefully received. Aye, Peter.

Stuart, David & Tim, thanks for your assistance. I think I now have enough information to progress, your help has been invaluable. I’ll let you know how I get on - thanks again. Peter.

Hi Stuart, thanks a lot for that - the Grizzly pdf is streets ahead of the Chester one and providing it’s the same machine (other than fine detail) it looks to have all the info I might need. So, I’ll remove the head first and then the table. I’d like to move the table to the end of its X travel then remove it by taking off either one of the turn wheels, plates, roller bearings, Woodruff key, having released the gib screws and removing the gib strip prior. That’ll leave me the base with saddle plate and the column. The base is bolted to its cabinet and after separating them we could then lift the base/column assembly between the two of us and move it out. Does that strike you as a sound plan? If so, I’ll make up a toolkit to take with me. BTW, how do you access the upper two nuts of the headstock? The lower one is obvious but the top two not so much. Thanks for your continued help. Peter.

Hi David - I wonder if you can help me with my Chester Champion 20 mill? I’ve bought it and I’m going to collect it next week once Boris lets me. I’m going to have to transport it from Hull back home to Birkenhead. It’ll be just me and my brother and a Ford Focus estate. We’re in our 60s now and I’m certain the mill will be too heavy for just the two of us so I propose to strip it down on site before loading it into the car. How easy is it to do that? I imagine I’d remove the table then split the column from the base. But I’ve never seen a machine like this in the flesh before, so what would you advise me to do? I have a background in mechanical and electrical engineering so I can swing a spanner ok but I’m new to milling machines. I do have a 1935 Drummond M lathe (I believe you have the later Myford M) and this Champion 20 will complement it. So there you have it, what do you think? Thanks a lot. Peter.