Here is a list of all the postings Simon Morrall has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Starter Capacitor on a 1950s bench grinder |
27/08/2023 08:38:30 |
Thankyou for all the feedback and apologies for the delay! I can identify it's a Wolf TG8 C but the serial number I'm struggling to read so it may be a slight varient on that number. The plate states its 240v with 1ph supply 2950 rpm. I don't think it has a centrifugal switch as it doesn't seem to click in and out when it fires up? I could be wrong in assuming this however? |
17/08/2023 13:31:47 |
Apologies if this has already been mentioned in another thread.
I've picked up an early 1950s 8" bench grinder which is doing the classic 'hum when switched on' works if I give it a helping hand but obviously not good on the motor long term.
Now I replaced the original starter capacitor like for like with a new one of same value. It still hums but starts slightly better, I then bought one with twice the farad rating and low and behold it almost starts fine. my question is can I just keeping going up in value until I find one which starts it with no help? I've also noticed the higher the value capacitor, the quicker the motor slows down when turned off... is this normal? Any help would be much appreciated
Thanks
Simon |
Thread: Warco VMC spindle knocking |
05/05/2023 18:09:22 |
I see that makes sense! I'll ditch the shims and put it all back together. If that's how it is then that's okay I just wasn't sure if this was normal! I'll do some experimenting with cutters and points of entry. Many thanks |
05/05/2023 10:14:04 |
I'm also experiencing this issue! I contemplated fitting a few 0.2mm shims either side of the two spindle parts to try and reduce this however sticking them in place is proving pretty difficult. Can you explain in more detail what you mean by moving the cutter to one side.
Thanks
Simon
|
Thread: Calling all Moore and Wright experts |
14/01/2023 22:26:58 |
Thanks for all. The feedback! I've attached an image to this post. |
13/01/2023 16:54:51 |
So I have Moore and Wright Square which bellonged to my grandfather. Its an adjustable style one and it's model is 414. I'd quiet like to know its age. Next to the model no is the number 48 just on its own. Am I to assume this is 1948? The way its engraved makes me think it cant be that old. Looks like something which has been engraved on a computer. I may be wrong. I found another on ebay with no 52. Just curious if this is the date. Thanks, Simon |
Thread: Brushless motor controller |
15/10/2022 09:35:21 |
Good morning, So the main controller board on my mill (Warco WM18B) has started tripping the fuse in the house. Did some tests and it appears the board's heatsink is live. The control board in question is covered with a horrible black epoxy type material so repairing it isn't really an option..(I understand why it's there)
From what I can tell the motor is a 1.5kw DC brushless motor with 3 cables to drive the phases of the motor cycle and 5 thin wires which I think tell the board where the motor position is. (positive, negative and 3 wires for each stage)
Can anyone advise on a suitable replacement control driver? I did consider a replacement board from Warco which is a few hundred but I really don't like the fact it could happen again with no way of doing any tests on the board.
Thanks
|
Thread: Socket/thread sizes |
18/01/2021 16:31:16 |
Posted by Mike Poole on 18/01/2021 13:57:01:
Decent spanner’s and sockets are usually a bit on the hard side for number and letter punches, and Gedore will be decent, I have seen spanner’s that have had letter punches used on them and they do not make much of an impression, I have also seen the havoc caused to punches by this abuse. A spark etcher is the best tool to mark hard materials but using one on soft tool steel will cause local hard spots. Mike I see! I've got photos on my account but cant paste them in here. I wonder if they've always been like that!? Just out of interest what's the best way to put lettering on standard grade steel/aluminium? I've got a set of punches and dremel but I've seen it been done a lot neater!
Thanks
Simon |
18/01/2021 13:35:22 |
Thankyou so much. The posts above has enormously helped. I got so confused trying to work it out before posting on here so thanks! Would I be right in assuming someone has bought these and simply punched in the closes sized in the other measurement forms. I have just about wrapped my head around all the different types of measurements!
Thanks
Simon |
14/01/2021 13:19:55 |
Hi Martin,
Thanks for getting back to me. Yes definetely seem to be marked like that on the sockets. They've been punched in a work colleague suggested they were probably punched in at a later date before metric tools were available easily.
Thanks
Simon |
13/01/2021 13:46:50 |
Hi there new to this forum and apologies if this has already been covered (I've tried to look) I've acquired some Gedore sockets and they have several markings on. I understand some of them but am confused why they're all on one socket. I have a full set like this. Can someone explain what each of the marking means.. For example, one socket is marked with: 7/16 No.D1914 14SAE 11mm 1/4DIN Another socket is marked with: 29/32 No.D1929 1/2W 23mm I did try and look into all the different sizes and such but it's all gone a bit over my head. I don't know if the markings are referring to the thread or the head of the socket. Any help. Would be much appreciated as to what these markings mean. Thanks Simon
Edited By JasonB on 13/01/2021 17:01:08 |
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