Member postings for Nick Welburn

As I posted before my Stuart 10v cylinder is a little rough inside and it’s also tapering about .2mm end to end. When I machined it I used a 6mm carbide cutter on the lathe and did it by hand.
My new boring head has arrived for the mini mill. Would I get a better cut from that? Less spring in the tool? It is viable to mount it up and bore it 0.2mm e2e? Or is this a fools errand?

Ok - sorted that bit and learned not to start cutting without a plan for all operations! Will get a hone on order quick zip with the dremel and a polishing pad has helped considerably. May try the dremel with some valve grinding paste and see what does.

Will a 5ba thread hold the part while I turn it? Maybe if I drill and tap deeper into the block and super glue it?

I’ve made my crankshaft and piston for the 10v today. I’ve got a couple of questions.
the bore of my cylinder is rough. Even with a little oil it doesn’t let the piston smoothly drop.

I guess it needs a hone. But how?

Secondly in a moments stupidity I started on the block that the piston rod goes into. I decided to start by milling the top and bottom flat. To do this I cut the casting bar off. I now realise I needed that to use that to turn the outside diameter down. Any cunning ideas for this?

Or should I just order an new one and think about what I’m doing before I start next time

I think this is a daft question, but the wisdom here is greater than mine. I’m making (slowly) a Stuart 10v. This needs a number of small BA taps and some larger BSW taps (I think they are BSW). I don’t have the relevant BSW taps. But I do have a full set of BA taps. Is there any sound reason why I cannot just use the larger BA taps and dies here?
After all I am making both the threads?

I’ve treated my self to a rotary table and indexing plates for my new mini mill.

I want to use these to help drill out my Stuart 10v piston ends and stand.
I understand how to get the divisions out, I’m lacking practical experience in getting it all lined up. Today I used a drill in the Chuck of the mill as a datum.

How to I set a repeatable PCD when everything I need to drill with the five bolt pattern has no centre?

Ok - I’m running to slow and feeding too slow. Sounds like I almost ‘buzz’ through it than pass gently over it.

Sieg sx2p mini mill. Think the end mill is HSS

Sorry beginner question again. I’ve been milling some brass for the bearings on my 10v.

Good news! It’s getting thinner. Bad news it’s kinda smearing metal over the edge of the piece and the finish is decent but looks ‘wavey’.

I guess this is a speed question. How fast should a 3/8 end Mill run on brass?

It’s bloody brilliant.

As a slide aside, the end mill in question I’ve broken the tip off. Can it be recut? If I just flatten the tip with something TBC.

Love this place. You ask a question and some one guides you along. I’ve learnt an extraordinary amount. Many thanks again!

Cool, I suspected as much as the flutes run up. Just wanted to check before sticking a load of lateral load through something not designed for it!

I’ve got my new sx2! It seems very nice and I’m up for doing some work on it. One job I have to do is On my 10v to mill out the space for the brass bearing carrier to slide into. I have an appropriate sized end mill (the one I broke with the z slide) can I use the side of the end mill to make the slot and the semicircular end?

I’d be inclined to download the free version of visual studio? Can’t remember if it has a C language in it anymore.
if not then Eclipse used to be the go to for a free IDE?

Well after as many glowing reviews a new Sieg sx2 in on the way. Anyone want to buy a mini vertical slide one careful owner

I’ll have a look round but saving a few quid more and the sx2 seems wise.

Hi Pete,

The problem with the z slide is twofold.
Firstly the effect of play in the slides and the z bracket.
Secondly it’s too bloomin small to be of any real use. You can’t even get a full pass over a 10v sole plate on it.
You can roughly mill something and with a follow with wet and dry get some thing workable. But in the end I threw the cylinder in the 4 jaw and cut it down that way to much better effect.

I have no view on new or used. I’ll check out arc

I’ve tried other options. A vertical drill fitting for the dremel, and a z slide on the lathe for milling.
these have been broadly unsuccessful. I think I may treat myself to a mini mill.
I’m after something of similar quality to my Amadeal lathe - that’s fine for my model making and home engineering.
Say a 5-600 budget can I get anything worth having?