Member postings for Martin Chamberlain

I return after a brief hiatus to conclude this post.

See the few new photo's to see what I found.

I managed to extract the splined shaft from its Bearings and came out with the chuck attached.

That involved a LOT of pounding. (Careful pounding of course..)

After unsuccesfully applying a Gas torch I resorted to complete anihilation of the chuck with an angle grinder and eventually I was presented with a B20 stub.. huzzah..!

So.. NO Morse taper..

I still do not know what purpose the knurled nut played in the scheme of things.. It may have been broken..

I Tapped the B20 stub to accept my new chuck and re-assembled with relative ease.

The only blood drawn was when I was removing the Hand wheel shaft and it suddenly dis-engaged the coil spring and the containing 'canister..' flew off and the spring caught my little finger.. Ouchie.. I then discovered a little grub screw which holds the spring canister in place (See pics).

The spring canister has 2 x 5mm holes through the cover to be used with an appropriate pin tool (Like an angle grinder spanner..) to rotate and re-tighten the spring and then the grub screw to hold it in place.

Overall I am glad I did it at zero cost as it is a substantial tool and the long quill proves very usefull.

Thanks again guys for your assistance.

I have added the Meddings MF2 description to my photo's album and clearly states an MT1 spindle but also under accessories is a Woodworkers Mortice chisel set which would probably have fitted to this floating 'nut'..

I shall lavish it in WD40 prior to attempting the rotary nut option..

If no response I am probably in ICU..

Thanks everyone for your assistance..

Ajax,

Thank you.. Nice one..

Would not have thought to look under Mig Welding..

But there it is and referred to as a chuck extractor so I shall follow this thread ..

Thanks again.

Hi Ajax,

We overlapped there..

Your description sounds quite convincing.

If it's a cheap import I don't think they would have fitted this floating nut thing which is quite complicated.

I am beginning to think I should remove the quill and bore it out on the lathe. I do have an MT3 Reamer.. but I didn't really want to turn this into a big project..

Aaaargh What to do..

Hi Ajax,

Yes its a Meddings Pacera MF2.. 'F' for floor standing.

There is a 4 part Pacera MB4 re-build vid on YT which unfortunatly just skirts around the chuck but it does look like he has the 'floating collar/nut' but fits a drill guard onto it so.. I am still guessing..

As to making some wedges I may well need to go down that route but as I mentioned above I don't want to just knock the chuck off..

Perhaps there is a little grub screw I have missed..

Hi,

I apologise for any confusion.. I meant to dislodge the Arbor from the quill.

I assumed that most (if not all..) quills will have a tapered Arbor as an insert with various stubbs or threads to accomodate a chuck.

I do not know enough about what options were used and why at any given time.

In my case I do not have a slot in the quill so that tells me.. It's not a tang.. And it's not a drawbar.. So...

Which the only logical option is a MT2/3 or JT released by folding wedges but which action may remove the chuck and not the arbor..

Hi Mr Moderator Dave,

Sorry, I did not realise the 'Indestructables' was a link.. (Duh..)

I am unfamiliar with the site but looks very much worth exploring. Thank you.

The article you reference does show what appears to be a similar aparatus for chuck dis-lodgement and can see the thinking behind it and possiblly why Meddings attempted it..

I wish to dislodge the quill shaft rather than just knocking off the chuck leaving a 'B' stub which will not accomodate my new chuck with a 1/2" UNF 20 fitting.

Hi Guys,

Thank you again. The consensus does seem to favor some form of wedged fitting. Jacobs, Morse et al.

I have managed to open a gallery (Marcham med chuck8) with a few pics of the knurled nut in up and down positions. Travel of about 10mm.

There is a freely rotating threaded section inside this nut which in my view may work as folding wedges but with a tool that is no longer with the machine.. Possibly a short lived experiment by Meddings..

I do not beleive this nut was used for holding the depth stop as there is enough of the quill showing to fix there.

I do not think my skills (or machinery) would encompase actually making wedges and for the time being I am hoping that someone may recognise/or have this unusual arrangement themselves.

Hi Guys Thank you for your responses.

I do have some pics of the offending Chuck but am unsure how to upload them.. Advice plis..

If the chuck had an internal taper (B?..) I think my pounding on the top of the chuck with a narrow bolster would have dislodged it and have previoulsy attempted a 'Wedge' seperation again with violent encouragement but was fearful of damaging some other part.

I beleive this is probably the original chuck to the drill. The only thing I havent tried is to put the chuck key in and smack it to the left with a big 'ammer.. I doubt this was common practice back then and have only seen this on certain electric hand drills..

I think this strange 'floating' nut has a part to play but ???...

Hi,

The chuck is getting a bit knackered and was hoping to change it for a nice new one I aquired but upon inspection of the quill noticed there is no slot for a 'Drift' (?) taper key to dislodge a Tapered shaft.

At the base of the quill is a knurled free spinning round 'nut' which does seem to engage with some threaded...? part but can find no way of removing the chuck.

There is no drawbar up to the spline... No little screw inside the chuck.. I have administered reasonable force to the top of the chuck... But nothing...

All I can see is what may be a few mm's of an mt2 at the top of the chuck.

Has anyone had any experience here.. I did phone Meddings and was met with a youthful 'Dunno mate..' Work experience day probably..

Hello Brian,

Thanks again for improving my knowledge. I found a YT vid by Mathew Warburton only 1.17mins long showing a beautifully restored Mk 2 and he had it running and almost showed me everything I was hoping to learn.

Perhaps he is known on this Forum..? YouToob : Metal lathe Denham Mk 2 Junior

Roger.. PM sent. Thank you.

Donald.. I am pleased you have a new shaft.. and sorry for highjacking..oops

Signing off for tonite.

Thanks

Regards

Martin

Hello Brian,

Excellent .. Thank you Brian.

My Lathe does not have the 'Tumbler gears' you mentioned but I have seen them on another Lathe on one of the YT vids I watched so understand what you mean.

I believe there is a forward/reverse option for both 'out' drives on the gearbox so shouldn't be a problem.

I am curious why there are two revolving shafts (square threaded and smooth keywayed) from the gearbox along the frame front..?

As I mentioned I have never really understood how the various levers work in relation to each other.. I know one lever on the Apron (?) engages either the cross slide or carriage travel.. Well, 2 levers actually.. Whats it's history..? It would be helpful to learn.

I should find an evening class..

Thanks again

Regards

Martin

Hello Brian,

Many thanks for your help. I think your 1st response was helpful inasmuch as my understanding the gearing going from A - C via B..

My issue was with what does the ' ----- ' on B mean.. on the chart/table shown?

I think it means.. it doesn't matter which single gear goes on the banjo arm as it is just a direct transfer as opposed to a change if a second gear with more/less teeth was also added.. Compound..?

So as you say in the second response.. it is actually even simpler.. 40t on the Spindle drive to 90t on the gearbox drive via...whatever gear fits..?

Am I in the right area..?

Regards

Martin

Hi Folks,

I am a newbie to this site and not that familiar with forums in general so please be forgiving of any faux pa's (?)..

I have owned a Denham Mk2 junior for about 25 years (Keighley lifts badge) and have only ever really used the basic functions barely touching the sundry levers apart from engaging the lead screw. I was always too worried about breaking it..

I now wish to do some thread cutting (40mm x 9tpi) and do not really understand the Table (Brass plate) concerning the Gears placement. I do seem to have the full compliment of gears and have watched as many (not really relevant..) YT vids I can find and still not really much the wiser..

My problem is I am not an engineer so do not understand much of the technical language or abreviations used. Also many parts seem to have a number of different names.

If a copy of this PDF Manual is available I would be an extremely happy recipient..

Specifically, if someone could explain the ---- marking on the brass Thread plate when refering to which gears go on the 'Banjo' arm..? As other gear trains show 2 x different toothed gears on the same shaft I am assuming it means 2 the same..? Confused. I have seen pics of this plate on this Denham topic but I dont know how to link things yet..

If this topic has been covered do please point me to the thread.

Thanks Martin C