Member postings for David Drury 1

Hi Eric

I thought I replied, but will have another go for anyone who might find it is some thing they are watching for advice.

I was looking at the Dart site when your message came through on my phone, in the brief time I looked I could only see a battery feed unit. With the guildence of the above post I now can see KB Electronics sell both USA spec 110 volt 60 hz as well as UK spec 230 volt 50 hz.

These looks alot better than the Ebay "special "at £20, but as you say at a price.

Thanks again for your input.

Regards Dave

Hi Eric

Thanks for your reply, are these units just a straight converter, I.e not voltage dependent with the American grid at 110 volts and our grid at 230 volts ?

I did look at AC / DC converters on EBAY but as they only cost about £20 I thought in this case too cheap.

I will try and look the ones you suggested up to see their spec and cost.

Thanks again regards

Dave Drury

Hi Neil

Thanks for taking the time to reply, as I said from the start I bought this on a whim with no knowIedge at all of any mini lathes .

I stand correction from your knowledge, the reason I thought it was a none copy lathe was as it has a serial number stamped on the bed (12679) which although I have a picture of, I cannot add to the post.

It only has the 250 watt motor which I am told is a very early example of the machine, I guess I just thought the chiness lathes only came after someone else did all the design work. Wrong again.

A small update, I have found a kind soul on the forum who is assisting me with an upgraded repair to do away with the old XMT 2325 board.

I very much hope it will rise from the ashes and I will be able to get back onto making toy wheels for the grand kids..

Regards

Dave Drury

Dear Members

My name is Dave Drury and I am new to the forum, I have been advised there is a wealth of talent who might want to take on a circuit board repair for me as above.

I am expecting to pay for this service and pre payment is not a problem.

A little back ground, I bought the lathe on a whim to add to my many other "toys" I have amassed over the years as an avid DIYer.

I admit I saw it advertized in the local free section and had know idea what I was buying, when I got it home I noted it was made in 1979 (at least not a chinese copy). It had been laid unused for many years with lots of surface rust.

After using it for awhile to get the very basic hang of it, making wheels and bits for the grand kids toys, I decided to strip it down and refinish all the sliding parts. Stupidly and in error after reassembly I started it against the stop while in threading mode ? this drove it into the stop end and it stopped working.

Being an ex industrial electrician I have tested the DC motor after cleaning the armature with a fibre glass pencile, brushes are fine and free, no burn marks, no shorts between segments I used my fluke meter to check the segments for earth faults as well as opposite segments resistance being quite balanced. I think the motor is fine.

Can anyone assist me please, with a repair and possible upgrade as suggested by one of your members Howard, thanks Howard.

Regards

Dave Drury

Hi my name is Dave Drury and I am new to the site,

I am also new to lathes and just wanted a hobby lathe to make wheels and small items for the grandkids toys.

I have just aquired is a 1979 Clarke CL300 M , and been told that the circuit board appears to be faulty after the motor was started with the drive going that direction against the end stop in error.

I have the Type 95D-1, 250W DC- 230 motor and the 2325 early type circuit board fitted.

When I removed the drive belt to test, (retired industrial electrician), the motor would turn with no load, but as soon as it had any load it would not run, hence the board might be poorly maybe.

As far as I can tell after removing and testing the motor it appeared Ok.

I cleaned the armature, the brushes are fine and free,no burning or shorts between segments, evenish ohms readings opposite segments and segments to earth clear and it ran with no load, no fault found.

All from watching UTube info and I still have my old Fluke meter from before I retired.

There have been suggestions here about which electronic components might be at fault, but for reasons explained below even a working one is very delicate, time for a more modern solution.

I have researched a little and am under the impression that the board is not robust and is expensive to replace, one of your kind readers suggested a more moden AC to DC controller from E Bay @ £20, which is no problem.

My question is has anybody found a better solution even if it costs a bit more please?

Regards and thankyou for any help

Dave Drury